Questions on refinishing stocks

[26betsam]

Greetings,
My last post was "My latest acquisition" And the revolver came with the incorrect stocks. I just got a correct set of stocks (Silver Medallion) but they looked in a lot better condition on Ebay than what arrived in the mail. Wouldn't make that much of a difference if the revolver they were going on wasn't in such nice condition. Sox drawer revolver with working gun set of stocks.
The question is how difficult is it to "refresh" a set of stocks? No chips or deep scratches but the parts of the checkering are flattened. Your opinion or is it better to keep an eye out for a better set and sell these.
For those that are interested the stamped serial number on the stocks is 726546
Thanks in advance

 

[Gun Relics]

Greetings,
My last post was "My latest acquisition" And the revolver came with the incorrect stocks. I just got a correct set of stocks (Silver Medallion) but they looked in a lot better condition on Ebay than what arrived in the mail. Wouldn't make that much of a difference if the revolver they were going on wasn't in such nice condition. Sox drawer revolver with working gun set of stocks.
The question is how difficult is it to "refresh" a set of stocks? No chips or deep scratches but the parts of the checkering are flattened. Your opinion or is it better to keep an eye out for a better set and sell these.
For those that are interested the stamped serial number on the stocks is 726546
Thanks in advance

I'm interested in what other members say too,

In my experience, unless you have the skill set, a light touch and an expensive set of proper tools, best to leave the checkering refresh to the pros. You can easily ruin the grips, which then is known as the "full bubba".

To simply refinish the grips, you will have satisfactory results stripping with a chemical stripper, lightly sanding and light stain and/or satin clear coat.

 

[MelvinWalker]

I have often wondered how checkering was recut and it would interest me to try my own skills, (or more likely LACK thereof), in refinishing a test set of cheap common magnas, but I wouldn't even know where to begin.

 

[glowe]

Nobody can just pick up a set of checkering tools and recut checkering without many hours of practice. There are so many idiosyncrasies that one must encounter before working on something that cannot be "fixed" if messed up. There are people on this Forum who can recut checkering.

As for the refinish part. I can only tell you how I do the work. After stripping and fine sanding the smooth surfaces, I dilute a small amount of Tru-Oil with paint thinner and apply to the stocks, let it soak in and using compressed air blow out the excess from the checkering before curing. I then apply two coats from the bottle with my finger to the smooth surfaces and let cure. Do not apply any more finish to the checkering. I then use steel wool to take off the luster since factory stocks were satin finish, not gloss. I use no stain and do not believe that the factory stained their walnut either? An example is below.

Last item is that I use a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to wipe down the medallion.

 

[spin132]

Nobody can just pick up a set of checkering tools and recut checkering without many hours of practice. There are so many idiosyncrasies that one must encounter before working on something that cannot be "fixed" if messed up. There are people on this Forum who can recut checkering.

As for the refinish part. I can only tell you how I do the work. After stripping and fine sanding the smooth surfaces, I dilute a small amount of Tru-Oil with paint thinner and apply to the stocks, let it soak in and using compressed air blow out the excess from the checkering before curing. I then apply two coats from the bottle with my finger to the smooth surfaces and let cure. Do not apply any more finish to the checkering. I then use steel wool to take off the luster since factory stocks were satin finish, not gloss. I use no stain and do not believe that the factory stained their walnut either? An example is below.

Last item is that I use a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to wipe down the medallion.

View attachment 771176

Nice work Gary, those look fantastic! Never thought of the air compressor trick, I always tape off checkered area with painter's tape. Your method sounds much easier!

Mike

 

[H Richard]

I do the same as Gary does, but have found that I prefer hand rubbing with Mothers Mag Polish to "satin finish" the stocks verses rubbing out with steel wool.

 

[mikepriwer]

IF i were you, and you have the option, return the stocks and look for a good pair.

Mike Priwer

 

[26betsam]

Did, found a much better pair. I'll flog these. Education is $$ but, one learns from mistakes.

 

[Denverd0n]

Related question...

On an otherwise completely original revolver, would it lower the value to refinish the stocks? Or should they be left completely original also?

 

[glowe]

Depends on condition of the revolver. Well used revolvers should not have pristine stocks. If the gun is 90% or better, then cleaned up or if necessary, refinished stocks are icing on the cake IF they look factory!

 

[Spurdann]

Related question...

On an otherwise completely original revolver, would it lower the value to refinish the stocks? Or should they be left completely original also?

I would imagine than if the gun is original then the wear on the stocks would be similar to the wear on the gun. That being said “improving” the stocks would impact the value as a reblue would.

 

[quinn]

Excellent info. So, who on this forum is reworking checkering?

 

[26betsam]

Revolver is 98%, replacement stocks fair.

 

[larry8]

I believe you can buy checkering tools at Numrich. Not really that hard to do but takes a lot of time because you have to work slowly. I think they have a video on rechecking too.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Is Satin clear coat the official way to go when aiming for the most original look?
Thanks

 

[JH1951]

Many years ago I read that S&W vintage stocks were treated with applications of a mixture of BLO (boiled linseed oil), bees wax, and turpentine. The proportions of the concoction were lost to history, but the fundamentals are there.
Later on, the factory started using a varnish or poly.
To refresh vintage stocks I often clean them with water, detergent, and a soft brush, followed by a thorough drying, and a couple coats of BLO (keeping the checkered area free of too much as it will clog up). Patience is your friend in this process as BLO takes a while to dry, but the results are rewarding.

 

[bob richardson]

I have refinished 50 or more S&W stocks including COKES that had little dings or poor finish.My method is similar to previous posts.
1) Chemical stripper with a toothbrush
2)Polish emblems and brass bolsters?(screw inserts)with Mothers or Flitz
3)Clean up checkering with dental pick and stainless brush and checkering perimeter with a checkering file
4)Sand with 400,600 & 1,000
5)Stain (if needed)with golden oak or american walnut
6)6 coats of Tru-oil applying with one drop only on finger and lightly buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats and blowing off with compressed air
7)Leave glossy or lightly buff with steel wool for satin finish.
8)ONE coat only of Tru-oil on checkering!
9) Wait 2 weeks and polish with mild polishing compound and then a good coat of REN-WAX
10)Yes,lots of work but they turn out beautiful! It's something I do to keep from ending it because I'm watching my wife of 45 years slowly die of Alzheimers.

 

[StrawHat]

….

Last item is that I use a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to wipe down the medallion.….

Gary,

Nice work and a very good description.

One caution, a certain era of stocks used a plastic medallion. Acetone will destroy those medallions.

Just a heads up.

Kevin

 

[Vtgw938]

Is Satin clear coat the official way to go when aiming for the most original look?
Thanks

Assuming you are doing stocks originally sprayed with lacquer, I use semi-gloss spray lacquer. I buff the finish with scotch-brite pads and usually wax as well. The finish out of a rattle can tends to be a little rough and buffing gets that original finish look. I'm sure satin would work fine, especially if buffing and waxing.

 

[Gun Relics]

I realize the traditional way is to use Tru-Oil and it will give a classic look. In defense of spray clears, particularly modern polyurethane, they dry much faster, are virtually impervious to chemical, oil and moisture, and will last through the most rugged use. Two or three shots of satin or matte finish with 10 minutes of drying time, followed in a day or two set up time followed with 0000 steel wool, will give greater protection than any penetrating oil. Rustoleum makes one of the most durable sprays available (obviously no wool or sanding on the checkering).

I coated some of my tabletops with brush on poly. We can set wet hot or cold drinks in glasses right on them without coasters and any moisture wipes off with no ring - and it lasts for years.