Quick nickel polishing question

[ColumbusJBR]

I’m cleaning up / polishing a few of my stainless and nickel Smiths. The one I’m doing now is my 29-2 6.5”, nickel.

I’m currently cleaning up with Mothers, which is working great. My question is about wax. I’ve seen several here recommend Renaissance wax. Don’t have THAT on hand. I DO have a big tub of Minwax paste furniture wax (woodworking is my other expensive hobby). I don’t see anything on the label about not using on metal, but wanted to know if anyone else has used it. And if it works well.

Or should I just spend $20 on a can of Renaissance and be done with it?

Thanks!

 

[Truckman]

RenWax is said to have an ingredient which helps minimize corrosion...I can't verify its chemical combination, but I can surmise that wood wax would not necessarily contain it...The Minwax can't hurt anything, but I i use RenWax exclusively......Ben

 

[Retired W4]

I have used Minwax products for 50 years...on wood. WoodFinish. Good stuff. Never tried their wax on metal. I use Ren Wax myself.

 

[chief38]

When cleaning up a Nickel finish I use only Flitz and a new good quality micro-fiber cloth. I only do this one time as Nickel plating is just not that thick. Also - do not get carried away in trying to make it look perfect. A light and easy polish is all I do.

Renwax is very good as well but just so you know Flitz is also a protectant by leaving a protective layer behind. I doubt putting the Renwax over the wiped off Flitz would do any harm, but may not be necessary.

HINTS: If you do buy Flitz, get a large tube - you will find 1,000 uses for it and IMHO is the best polish anywhere. I'd also buy the smallest container of Renwax as it lasts forever! You only use a tiny amount each time.

NEVER use a Motorized polishing tool!!

 

[stansdds]

I do not know what sort of wax or additives are used in furniture wax, but a $20 can of Renaissance Wax likely represents a lifetime supply.

 

[squirrelnest]

A little bit of Renaissance Wax goes a long way....I use it on my knives & guns!

 

[Hair Trigger]

I’m cleaning up / polishing a few of my stainless and nickel Smiths. The one I’m doing now is my 29-2 6.5”, nickel.

I’m currently cleaning up with Mothers, which is working great. My question is about wax. I’ve seen several here recommend Renaissance wax. Don’t have THAT on hand. I DO have a big tub of Minwax paste furniture wax (woodworking is my other expensive hobby). I don’t see anything on the label about not using on metal, but wanted to know if anyone else has used it. And if it works well.

Or should I just spend $20 on a can of Renaissance and be done with it?

Thanks!

Waxes made for wood generally are carnauba based, and will yellow somewhat with age. It may not be noticeable on polished metal, I've never used wood wax on my guns. Get the Renaissance Wax; it is more expensive but as stated the $20 tin will last for years and it works on all types of material without coloring it. Works well on blued and stainless guns too, including the stocks.

 

[max503]

Speaking of cleaning nickel, I once used the white vinegar/peroxide solution to clean lead from a nickel 44 and the solvent came out of the barrel a distinct orange color.

Probably not a good thing.

 

[gwpercle]

RenWax is the best .

A good automotive wax with no cleaners or colors is next best ...
made for oudoor use .

Furniture wax is good if that's all you have . I've used Johnson's Paste Wax ( big yellow can) for years on shotguns and revolvers to protect from damp hunting conditions ... it may not be "The" best but it works and used to be affordable and easy to find !
Gary

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

When cleaning up a Nickel finish I use only Flitz and a new good quality micro-fiber cloth. I only do this one time as Nickel plating is just not that thick. Also - do not get carried away in trying to make it look perfect. A light and easy polish is all I do.

Renwax is very good as well but just so you know Flitz is also a protectant by leaving a protective layer behind. I doubt putting the Renwax over the wiped off Flitz would do any harm, but may not be necessary.

HINTS: If you do buy Flitz, get a large tube - you will find 1,000 uses for it and IMHO is the best polish anywhere. I'd also buy the smallest container of Renwax as it lasts forever! You only use a tiny amount each time.

NEVER use a Motorized polishing tool!!

One more of 1000 uses........I polish my knife blades with it. Makes "em" look new.

 

[rct269]

As an aside, the "Ren Wax" folks make a cleaner (Pre Lim) that's hard to beat. Actually, I don't know of anything that'll beat it.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[doubletapp357]

OP could you please post before/after photo's and what exactly you did. I have a Model 57 from 1979/1980 Nickel finish and there is one small section thats "cloudy/hazy"

 

[doubletapp357]

@Hair_Trigger can I use that on my Model 57 Nickel 6 inch. I have a tiny spot that is "hazy or cloudy". can you use this on the whole gun?

 

[CajunBass]

I got the idea of using wax on my guns long before the internet. I had one of those glass front gun cabinets and I would spray Pledge furniture polish on my gun stocks to really make them "POP" inside that case. Eventually overspray got on the metal and I would wipe that off. That overspray area got bigger and bigger, until I was just spraying a rag and wiping down the whole gun with it.

When I found (1) the internet and (2) these forums, I learned about Ren Wax and have never looked back. I actually went through a couple of the little cans, and just gave in an got one of the big ones (200 ML). It's still going strong. I suspect it will outlast me.

 

[stansdds]

Speaking of cleaning nickel, I once used the white vinegar/peroxide solution to clean lead from a nickel 44 and the solvent came out of the barrel a distinct orange color.

Probably not a good thing.

No, not a good thing. Vinegar is acetic acid and it is a fairly strong acid. It is strong enough to remove a blued finish, so it might be strong enough to etch a nickel finish.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Renaissance Wax is a microcrystalline wax polish that was developed in the 1950s for use in the British Museum. It's used around the world for the cleaning, restoration and protection of antiques, artifacts, and collectables. It leaves no residue, and doesn't retain fingerprints. I bought a 200ml can years and years ago and use it on guns, knives, and tools- I'm still working from that original can. You can't go wrong buying some for yourself.

 

[Truckman]

I bought a 200ml can years and years ago and use it on guns, knives, and tools- I'm still working from that original can. You can't go wrong buying some for yourself.

If my budget could take the hit, I'd wax my truck with it...As it is I go through maybe a 200 ml can a year......Ben

 

[rct269]

Let me suggest "Ren Wax" is used as a protectant-----only.

Their cleaner (Pre-Lim) is used as just that--a cleaner.

I've never encountered anything Pre-Lim doesn't remove, but then again, I've never encountered a "cloudy" spot, as mentioned above. Were I to experience such, my go-to would be Bronze Wool and oil.

Speaking of Pre-Lim, I had one each of the early post-war K frame targets (K-22/K-32/K-38---and the .44 4th H.E. Target) finished in "Satin Blue"---the funky finish. I used Pre-Lim on those when they first arrived, and my rag came away from one of them with rust stains on it----never mind there was no visible rust on the gun. I put that down as a phenomenon peculiar to the finish, which I'll describe as microscopically irregular (little bitty hills and valleys)--------compared to Bright Blue for example, and the Pre-Lim was taking it out of the valleys. I don't know that's the case, but it makes sense.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Hair Trigger]

@Hair_Trigger can I use that on my Model 57 Nickel 6 inch. I have a tiny spot that is "hazy or cloudy". can you use this on the whole gun?

Sounds like you have some oxidation and RenWax isn't what you need to remove it. Use Flitz and some elbow grease.
The shiny M29-2 I posted was dull and dingy when I bought it, had been handled a lot and never wiped down afterwards. There were imbedded fingerprints in the nickel finish I had to work several hours to eliminate, using Flitz and an old cotton diaper. Once you get the dull spots and fingerprints gone, buff the gun until all traces of the Flitz have been removed. You would want to clean the bore, chambers and oil it before you do the Flitz, so there's no oils or solvents left on the outside by the time you finish the Flitz cleaning. After the cleaning, then apply the RenWax with another clean cloth. It will haze up just like any other wax. Then rub with another clean cloth and buff it with a clean microfiber towel. I keep emphasizing "clean", if there's any microscopic grit in the fabrics you'll make tiny marks in the finish that won't buff out. Here's a few pics of the M29-2 before I started cleaning it right after I bought it five years ago.

 

[doubletapp357]

I will post a picture of it when I get home from work. It really is very very very faint. Im more concerned about removing the cylinder burn