RANGE BRASS --

J. R. WEEMS

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Didn't want to hi-jack another thread so I will just post this, for what it may be worth. :) All JMHO you understand.
On range brass, I have been doing this for a good while and mostly use the same range-- there are clues to be had, which by now, I guess I take for granted. Since I am at the range just about every day, I can tell for the most part what has been going on. When you see the boxes in the trash, and brass on the ground, it is a safe bet it is new stuff. For the most part, reloaders do not leave brass behind. Yes, some isn't found, and there can be a bugger in there once in awhile, but for the most part, what you will find is new stuff. If I get it home and for some reason don't like it, it goes in the scrap can which when full I drop off at the local reload shop. In 35 years, I have never had a problem I can remember. For hunting, I never used anything unless I was sure was once fired. Time is something I have always had plenty of, even before I retired. It is almost like therapy, or maybe it is. Tying flies takes time as well, but the time is better spent than in front of the tube. JMHO, as I said. :)
 
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Under exactly those conditions, I might use range brass. Any set of conditions less controlled than what you have described and no way will I reload brass that I don't know much about.
 
Have reloaded thousands of 38 and 357 range brass, never any problems. Some of the brass I have has been reloaded a dozen or more times with no problems. If it splits I toss it.
 
I'm with Troystat,

Once fired, twice fired, or more, the brass is still good.

I have Phil Sharpe's book he wrote in 1937 where he speaks of tracking brass and measuring degradation.

After reloading the same brass over 50, (that's five-zero) times with no discernible changes, he gave up.

Sometimes it splits and goes "pffffttt" and I toss it in the trash. No big deal.
 
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I stopped using range brass when I had a bunch of unexplained neck splits in some .223. My firearms are worth too much to take the chance. Brass is relatively cheap, if you can find it.

I still pick it up, but I recycle 100%.
 
HANDGUN BRASS:
I pick up range brass, I buy brass at Gun Shows, I have it given to me, and I even buy new.
My local gun shop had some bags of 38 Special a while back I passed on. I looked at it, and it looked to have been reloaded to the point it was ready to fail, then they sold it to the gun shop. Necks were starting to split. I would have rated them as down to the last reload before going in the recycle can.
You get a feel for condition after you have reloaded a few rounds.
As was said above, I reload lots of 38 Special. When I notice a split, it gets pitched in the brass bucket with the spent primers.
I have been sorting out different Head Stamps on my 38 Special brass for a couple years now. I have a 100 round box almost full of different head stamps. I found a really old 38 Colt Special a while back. No telling where it came from.
That probably gives you an idea of the amount of 38 Special Brass I have to reload from. I probably have a 5 gallon bucket of 38 Special brass.

I have a couple 5 gallon buckets of 40 S&W that is almost all once fired. It mounts up fairly fast with different LE Agencies shooting at the range.

Using Range Brass you just need to sort it some, and look it over. Same thing you need to do with all brass. You can get a rock in a case, or a 40 S&W inside a 45acp case, etc. For semi auto brass I like to run the brass through a push through sizer. My 610 does not like bulged 40 S&W cases.

RIFLE RANGE BRASS:
I collect 223 brass that I figure I will load into plinking loads one of these days.
I mostly buy NEW Brass for my long range Target Rifles.
Exceptions might be Range Brass from a Sniper Class.

Just My 2 Cents.

Bob
 
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One of the reasons that I pretty much stopped using the semi-autos and went to revolvers was the brass. When I shot .45ACP and 9mm, I almost had to fight to get the 'brass rats' away from my brass. With revolvers, I shoot say, 100 rounds, and bring home those same 100 cases. My QC is better now. I'm actually getting fussy. I will turn down brass my shooting buddies offer, because mine seems to never wear out. The only brass I've bought in the last five years is .44 Special from Starline. I will use and re-use the same 1,000 that I bought from them forever. It is such a low-pressure round, it has yet to show any signs of damage.

Life gets easy. Shoot revolvers. Recycle your own brass forever. Watch the brass rats steal from each other and laugh. (I realize that those of you who shoot in competition can't do this, so my advice is admittedly not for everybody).
 
The majority of the .45acp brass that I used is from the range. I'll police up the brass that I can use from our CHL classes.
 
I shoot IPSC, and use range brass all the time. You never get most of your fired brass at the matches back anyway, and wind up getting other abandoned or lost brass from others mixed in. It's basicly a brass exchange. I clean and inspect before loading, and never had any problems, with very few rejected cases. Weeding out the small primer cases is the only hassle. The 45 ACP at the IPSC required 165 PF, is a relatively modest load, presenting little opportunity to cause problems. The brass never seems to wear out.
As far a handguns go, only if you like hot loads and use a 40 cal Glock, would I give pause using range brass, or even my own, if fired more than a few times.
 
I always look at the inside of the brass to see if it is new or has been reloaded and put the factory brass in a container with "New" on it and also leave the factory primer in it.

Old or reloaded brass may be kept or put in the round file....depending on its condition and type and how bad the die marks are on them.

I only use factory fired "Real Brass" for my rifle reloading and
let the other lay on the ground. I don't like using the HARD non-brass cases in my pistols or rifles due to the extra wear on the extractors... but that just my thoughts. Some think it is not a big deal.
 
HANDGUN BRASS:...

Using Range Brass you just need to sort it some, and look it over. Same thing you need to do with all brass. You can get a rock in a case, or a 40 S&W inside a 45acp ...

Bob

I call that the "Reloader's Nesting Doll" I.E.

A 22 inside a 9mm inside a 40 cal inside a 45 acp!:D
 
I call that the "Reloader's Nesting Doll" I.E.

A 22 inside a 9mm inside a 40 cal inside a 45 acp!:D

Exactly why I don't tumble 9mm with 45acp anymore. When I have to grab the needle-nose pliers to pull the 9mm that is wedged into the 45acp case with corn-cob media.
 
That's exactly what happened to me today. Why won`t this .45 auto decap? The 9 mm inside it wouldn`t let it !
 
If you are using dry media to tumble, one of these does help quite a bit.
s7_214213_999_01


If you do any brass prep over a trashcan, setting one of these on top of the can saves a lot of trash picking when you have butterfingers like me.
s7_212868_999_01
 
Add me to one of those that successfully reload and shoot range brass. Heck, I've even purchased "once fired" brass online for my 9mm, 45 ACP., 38 Sp., .357 Mag, .223/5.56, and 30-30. I've found a whole bunch of .223/5.56 and 9mm at the "range" (shootin' spot up in the hills) that I have reloaded. No probs. But, I visually inspect every case I reload...

I wouldn't pass up a shiny dime on the ground, so I don't pass up empty brass.
 
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you should never under any circumstances pick up brass from the range. Not knowing the history and pedigree can be dangerous. Leave it all for me, I will pick it up and put it to good use.

Reloading since 1967 and never had to buy brass.
 
HANDGUN BRASS:
I pick up range brass, I buy brass at Gun Shows, I have it given to me, and I even buy new.
My local gun shop had some bags of 38 Special a while back I passed on. I looked at it, and it looked to have been reloaded to the point it was ready to fail, then they sold it to the gun shop. Necks were starting to split. I would have rated them as down to the last reload before going in the recycle can.
You get a feel for condition after you have reloaded a few rounds.
As was said above, I reload lots of 38 Special. When I notice a split, it gets pitched in the brass bucket with the spent primers.
I have been sorting out different Head Stamps on my 38 Special brass for a couple years now. I have a 100 round box almost full of different head stamps. I found a really old 38 Colt Special a while back. No telling where it came from.
That probably gives you an idea of the amount of 38 Special Brass I have to reload from. I probably have a 5 gallon bucket of 38 Special brass.

I have a couple 5 gallon buckets of 40 S&W that is almost all once fired. It mounts up fairly fast with different LE Agencies shooting at the range.

Using Range Brass you just need to sort it some, and look it over. Same thing you need to do with all brass. You can get a rock in a case, or a 40 S&W inside a 45acp case, etc. For semi auto brass I like to run the brass through a push through sizer. My 610 does not like bulged 40 S&W cases.

RIFLE RANGE BRASS:
I collect 223 brass that I figure I will load into plinking loads one of these days.
I mostly buy NEW Brass for my long range Target Rifles.
Exceptions might be Range Brass from a Sniper Class.

Just My 2 Cents.

Bob

I should of explained, I was speaking of handgun brass. I never bother with rifle brass as I have enough of my own. Once fired , of course. :) I resized all or any new brass before using-- just because. :)
 
It is wise to check the brass the first time to see if it is within spec's............ never know if it was fired in an over size chamber or cylinder.
Lots of wildcat guns out there that have been custom built that might be a tad over size or had the shoulder area changed.
I even size my shotgun hull brass now...........had some Federal Top Gun hulls fail to chamber in my O/U due to the brass was being peeled back on closing.
The last guys gun had a bigger chamber and the brass stuck out just enough to be peeled like a banana !!

Even when neck sizing "My" brass, I will have to FULL size after a few maximum loadings, so the bolt will close "Normally" and not need a lot of pressure to close it, due to the brass "Flowing".
 
you should never under any circumstances pick up brass from the range. Not knowing the history and pedigree can be dangerous. Leave it all for me, I will pick it up and put it to good use.

Reloading since 1967 and never had to buy brass.

I believe this belongs to you, Sir!:cool:

0ECF81D5-02F7-46A7-9DE3-81FF1B361370-238-000000A557149795_zps53b0a3e3.jpg
 
Another thought, who leaves brass at the range? New shooters that don't reload? I figger the brass I find at the range is left there by either a rich new shooter, or someone that doesn't reload, so why would the brass be suspect?
 
I'm with the "I use range brass" crowd.
I believe that mikld is right on about range brass.

For handgun brass I closely inspect my picked up brass, but very rarely find one with a problem.

The area of the case around the flash hole is a very good indicator of load history.
Most once fired brass will have a relatively clean interior.
If it's clean, I feel safe in using full power loads in it.
If it is fairly dirty inside, I set it into the light load plinking bin.

For rifle brass the inspection is a bit closer to include measuring the base of the case.
Few, if any, reloaders would leave anything but last use worn-out brass behind.
And even then, would likely pick it up anyway.
So, any rifle brass I find will most likely be once fired.

Disclaimer: All of my high powered rifle (257 Roberts, 30-30, 308, 30-06, 300 Weatherby and 350 Remington) hunting loads are purchased virgin brass.
But, for just paper punching, I have a mountain of used 308 & 30-06 brass that is fine.

Being an instructor, I have the advantage of knowing if the brass is once fired or not.
Most of my students don't reload and are happy to let me have their brass rather than police it up themselves.
I also own my own 300 meter private rifle/pistol range

I've been reloading since 1962 and still have both eyes and all of my fingers... To me inspected range pickup brass is safe to use.

My 2 Cents,

Steve
 

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