Does anyone know what process Smith and Wesson used in the 70s to create the brushed stainless steel look on the model 60 stainless revolver someone polished mine and I would like it to look like a factory brushed / satin st does anyone know what process Smith and Wesson used in the 70s to create the brushed stainless steel look on the model 60 stainless revolver someone polished mine and I would like it to look like a factory stainless. I have heard of using scotch bright pads ,Thanks for any help
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Re applying brushed satin finish to SS after being polished
- Thread starter tiger6789
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Wee Hooker
Member
I'm not sure what process they used originally but you can get pretty close by using Grey Scotch Brite pads. I generally use light grey but dark grey will get a little deeper/duller if that's what you prefer. Just do a search and you'll find more info here and on the net.
hth
hth
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Just make sure to keep the "brush" marks all going lengthwise. It won't look right otherwise. I do it with green, but I'm sure that is coarser than a factory finish. The glass bead is satin finish, not brushed.
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kraynky
Member
Be sure and take some before, during and after pictures. This comes up often here, but seldom with pics. I have a 64-6 2" I bought already polished as well. Still debating with myself over it. I worry that the barrel- frame junction might not look "factory", mostly because I've never done it before. Be sure to remove the cylinder latch first, or it might end up looking like I did it. LOL
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what you decide.
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what you decide.
Arquebus357
Member
I have had pretty good results getting a brushed finish. Factory like ?, probably not.
400 grit wet/dry and then burnished with Brownells small carding brush. (rust bluing tool). Revolver needs to be completely taken apart. Of course the side plate need to be in place though, without the screws. The burnishing makes a big difference.
400 grit wet/dry and then burnished with Brownells small carding brush. (rust bluing tool). Revolver needs to be completely taken apart. Of course the side plate need to be in place though, without the screws. The burnishing makes a big difference.
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I'd suspect the brushed finish is just that, a wire wheel burnished finish done over the final polish of the metal.
Much depends on how coarse/fine the wheel is, how fine the wire itself is and the speed & diameter of the wheel and the technique of the polisher.
In the Jewelry & Watchmaker trades,,brushed finishes were a common application. The older catalogs of supplys for the trades listed dozens of different shaped wire wheels and 'bobs' for getting those finishes on precious and semiprecious metals.
The other trick used in the gunsmithing trade is to apply oil to the metal surface and then proceed with the burnishing/brushing process.
A rust bluing carding wheel is often used by gunsmiths to get this type of finish or even a 'fine' wire wheel run slower.
The surface is often prepared this way prior to rust bluing carbon steel parts.
(We used to use it a lot on parts for case coloring prep too followed by a quick buff (!) with semichrome.
The latter to bring a bit of shine to the surface which is expected under the case colors on certain mfg's like Parker. The semichrome polish did not damage any engraving or corners. It was a quick light buff and off.)
The use of a hand carding brush (rust bluing) as Arquebus357 uses is another way to the same end result.
Try it with the oil on the metal and it'll give an even finer finish than dry carding.
It can be a little messy using the oil on a carding wheel but it really isn't all that bad. You don't need much on the surface to have it work.
Type of oil doesn't matter much. Anything from 3in1 to WD40 to motor oil. The last set of SxS bbls I did I used RemOil as the can was handy nearby on the bench.
All it really does is allow the bristles to slide on the surface and polish it a bit more and not leave bright marks. It blends everything in nicely irregardless of the direction you are brushing.
This type of finishing process was very popular with early 20thC custom gunsmiths when rust blue was THE finish on firearms and the best possible satin blue was desired.
It still works well and even on stainless steel.
Make sure the carding brush or carding wheel has stainless wire in it when using it on stainless steel..and don't use a wheel on stainless that has been used on any other metal including carbon steel.
Just my thoughts..
Much depends on how coarse/fine the wheel is, how fine the wire itself is and the speed & diameter of the wheel and the technique of the polisher.
In the Jewelry & Watchmaker trades,,brushed finishes were a common application. The older catalogs of supplys for the trades listed dozens of different shaped wire wheels and 'bobs' for getting those finishes on precious and semiprecious metals.
The other trick used in the gunsmithing trade is to apply oil to the metal surface and then proceed with the burnishing/brushing process.
A rust bluing carding wheel is often used by gunsmiths to get this type of finish or even a 'fine' wire wheel run slower.
The surface is often prepared this way prior to rust bluing carbon steel parts.
(We used to use it a lot on parts for case coloring prep too followed by a quick buff (!) with semichrome.
The latter to bring a bit of shine to the surface which is expected under the case colors on certain mfg's like Parker. The semichrome polish did not damage any engraving or corners. It was a quick light buff and off.)
The use of a hand carding brush (rust bluing) as Arquebus357 uses is another way to the same end result.
Try it with the oil on the metal and it'll give an even finer finish than dry carding.
It can be a little messy using the oil on a carding wheel but it really isn't all that bad. You don't need much on the surface to have it work.
Type of oil doesn't matter much. Anything from 3in1 to WD40 to motor oil. The last set of SxS bbls I did I used RemOil as the can was handy nearby on the bench.
All it really does is allow the bristles to slide on the surface and polish it a bit more and not leave bright marks. It blends everything in nicely irregardless of the direction you are brushing.
This type of finishing process was very popular with early 20thC custom gunsmiths when rust blue was THE finish on firearms and the best possible satin blue was desired.
It still works well and even on stainless steel.
Make sure the carding brush or carding wheel has stainless wire in it when using it on stainless steel..and don't use a wheel on stainless that has been used on any other metal including carbon steel.
Just my thoughts..
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Arquebus357
Member
Great post.. Thanks for that information.
