Re-blueing

[crossedpistols14K]

I'm looking for a little advice about what appears to be a scar on each side of a S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman. I replaced the hard plastic target grips, which had been on the pistol for several decades, with smaller, wooden grips. The scars (not sure that's the right term) are little segments of a semicircle, one going through the S&W mark on the steel. I'm guessing these were caused by the sharp edges of the hard plastic grips, that each time the previous owner fired the revolver, keeping a tight grip, of course, the recoil caused the steel underneath the grip to rub against the plastic. Anyway, my question, before I go to a gunsmith, is if anyone has any advice about re-blueing. I'm completely ignorant of this process, and I see that there's "hot" and "cold" and "rust" and so on. I'd like the pistol to look great, as it's, first of all, a great revolver, and second, it has sentimental value. Thanks in advance for any tips. By the way, those scratches, or scars, are the only blemishes whatsoever on this pistol.

 

[MSD2343]

A photo would be helpful, but based on your description, most here, myself included, would discourage a full reblue of the revolver. Such will notably depreciate the value of the gun and it can also be difficult to find someone who will do a good job. Best to find grips that cover the offending marks or worst case, do a spot repair with cold blue.

 

[Nightowl]

The factory used a good many specialized buffing wheels to polish guns prior to bluing. Non factory bluing shops do not have access to these special buffers. What you could get, and if you watch here enough, you will see reblued guns with a larger gap in the sideplate seam, dished out sideplate screw holes, rounded corners and a generalized softer appearance. In other words, those two places are much less offensive than a new reblue!

Alas, Smith no longer uses the same bluing process as in the old days. Your gun is probably as good as its ever going to be! The marks are part of it's history, so embrace it, clean it and shoot it.

 

[SnidelyWhiplash]

If you're really intent on bluing the gun...even some touch-up...do some research on the subject and the different types. I've cold blued numerous parts and not all cold blue solutions are equal. There's liquid cold blue and creme cold blue. Liquid cold blue is fine for touching up a small area or a scratch. For larger areas I prefer the creme type.

Brownells Oxpho Blue is considered the best cold blue...I've found the Oxpho Blue Creme to work extremely well. While some don't like it...Formula 44-40 Liquid works well for small touch up. The secret to using a cold blue is follow the instructions to the letter. Shortcuts will give disappointing results.

All that being said...heed the advice of others here and only go this route if you really feel you have to.