Rebluing cylinder question

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I recently bought a 29-5 Classic 5" at an attractive price because it has a couple of smallish rust spots on the cylinder. I am considering having the cylinder reblued.

Will S&W reblue just the cylinder? Is it likely that it will match the rest of the gun or at least be close in color?

Anyone else to suggest to perform this reblue?

Other than these two spots, this 29 is very nice but I bought it to be my shooter. I like the feel and balance to this barrel combination and the extra barrel weight seems to comfort recoil.

Thanks for your opinions
Ward O
 
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The blue wont be the same, epa standards have changed the deep blue that used to be on revolvers. today the blue is closer to a black in color. there are a few smiths who can duplicate the exact color but the cost is over 1000 for the entire revolver.

Kroil will soak into the rust and lift it from the finish, it may take 4-5 days but it will eliminate the surface rust. beyond this I would just keep the gun coated with eezox and shoot it...

every once in a while i see on one of the gun auction sites (gb) smith parts- cylinders etc....you may want to keep an eye out as they have sold for $50-75 on occasion. this may be an inexpensive alternative to having the gun reblued.
 
I think that bigshot500 gave you good advise and there is not much more for me to add, except if you are a "fusspot" like me, and want a perfect gun, send it to S&W, let them re blue the whole gun and get it over with, otherwise you will forever be starring at the damn thing instead of shooting and enjoying it!

Chief38
 
You guys are right - shoot it! This is my second 29-5. The other one is near perfect and it only gets to the range and not the field. I think I will just start using this one and to heck with the spots.

Thanks
Ward
 
Rust Removal

What is the best way of removing rust?

I have a couple of guns with a small amount of rust. One has light rust without pitting and the other has only one very small area with rust with some pitting.

Should I use 0000 steel wool, or white scotchbrite? (1200 to 1400 grit)

I also have a bottle of "Sweetshooter, by Tecrolan". I was concidering using it on the guns to protect the bluing. Any thoughts?

PhilH
 
you can remove the 'crust" ( residue) of any "rust" but once its 'through the metals 'finish; you willl have a 'bare' spot and there is no 'cold' ( or warmed) solution that will be permanent, let alone even come close to "matching"...yes, the entire surface needs to be stripped, buffed , polished, and then 'hot blued' and as said, no guarantee to "match" , the older colors or finish, so might as welll do the entire gun,,,,,BUT we have found that usually if ones does a "part" ie, the cylinder, it may come close enough to get by...again, its the prep of the parts (buffing & polishing) as well as the solution that is used...MOST newer guns are in fact a darker, deeper ,almost 'black'...........
soleave it be,m clean & oil, do ony the cylinder (cheaper than the entire gun,) and you can send the "part" ( cylinder) , out to any shop, not need for special shipping or overnight treatment, like an entire firearm requires...................if it doesn't 'match' oh well, and least the 'rust' is GONE................and won't look like a spotted leopard......
 

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