rebore a 4053 to 10mm? help needed

the Gunworks in Sandusky,I occasionally see them setup at some of the gun shows here in northern Ohio,never heard anything negative about them. I've talked to them about building a special AR. When the funding is in place,they'll get the project.

I called and spoke to Mr. Vance. He is very knowledgable and a nice guy to speak with. He said he has done a bunch of these conversions. I am shipping out my barrels to him next week.
 
Responding to post#20,in the 'links' in post#2 in this thread,wasn't something mentioned about 'buffers' ?

Yes. Thank you for pointing that out . Hopefully someone can shed some light on that.
 
Besides reaming the barrel/chamber, taking out the spacer in the magazine, and upgrading the recoil spring to a wolf (Item 47721) is there anything else i am missing to complete this project?
Yes........Buffer

You need something in there that cushions the blow incase the steel slide travels far enough back to impact the alloy frame.

If you have access to a mill, a little metal can be removed to make the buffer fit very nicely
 
I don't have access to a mill am I able to purchase the buffer? Or does a gunsmith fabricate one?
 
I apologize for my lack of knowledge when it comes to this. I don't have any real gun smithing skill. Anything other then field stripping and cleaning my pieces, I'm a beginner, especially when it comes to any customizations....
 
The mechanical work, fabrication, and chambering stuff was pretty straightforward.

Coming up with the proper recoil springs was another story. I started with a "heavier than required" spring configuration and backed the tension down to the point where the slide would reliably lock back....barely. The final spring combination: a nested spring set on the smaller diameter OEM guide rod....21lb Wolff (#47721) outer spring and a stock S&W OEM inner spring. I don't use a buffer. This combination works well with my practice and carry ammunition, and the 10mm conversion slide and barrel setup is a bit more accurate than the original slide/barrel in .40 S&W caliber. (reason unknown) Recoil is very manageable, even for my old hands.

Hope your project goes well.

just to make sure im on the same page, you put the new wolf spring around the factory spring and guide rod? any chance you can snap a pic of what your setup looks like? Thanks again for your and everyone else's input and help!
 
another question about the recoil spring will that wolf 21lb spring (#47721) work with the cs40 as well as the 4053?
 
Yes, that's correct. I have two different slide/barrel/guide rod combinations for the single gun frame. The slide/barrel/g.rod combination in 10mm uses the smaller diameter (.235") OEM guide rod. This smaller guide rod employs a "nested" spring combination, with a smaller spring inside the larger diameter recoil spring. I have set the springs up with my ammo of choice so that the gun cycles open far enough to lock the slide back on the last round, but not far enough so that the slide impacts the frame. I'm currently using the factory OEM inner spring, part number 10867, and a Wolff 21 lb. outer spring, #47721. I'm not using a recoil buffer.

The .40 caliber components (different barrel, slide, guide rod and spring set) are fitted with the larger diameter (.290") guide rod and a single recoil spring. (Wolff, 21lbs)

I can switch the assembled slides on and off the frame, depending on what caliber I want to shoot.
 

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Thank you very much for the pictures they help a lot! Where were you able to find the non oem guide rod? Also just to clarify that would be used if I want to go from 10mm back to 40sw?
 
from in post#31,"go from 10mm back to 40sw?"
Go back ????? you'd need a 40S&W barrel as the barrel rechambered to 10mm would no longer be usable with a 40S&W cartridge as the 40 would fall too far into the longer chamber necessary for 10mm.
It's not like the 357Magnum/38Special situation nor like the 610 situation that uses moon clips to hold the cartridges in proper position for firing pin strike.
 
Yes........Buffer

You need something in there that cushions the blow incase the steel slide travels far enough back to impact the alloy frame.

If you have access to a mill, a little metal can be removed to make the buffer fit very nicely

I contacted wolff springs and they said they do not make a upgraded recoil spring for the cs40. Can you point me in the right direction as to the ones you used to convert yours?
 
from in post#31,"go from 10mm back to 40sw?"
Go back ????? you'd need a 40S&W barrel as the barrel rechambered to 10mm would no longer be usable with a 40S&W cartridge as the 40 would fall too far into the longer chamber necessary for 10mm.
It's not like the 357Magnum/38Special situation nor like the 610 situation that uses moon clips to hold the cartridges in proper position for firing pin strike.

Gotcha. i was just curious but once converted the will stay 10mm
 
Ordered a 10mm chamber reamer from Brownells. Next acquire a gun. At the Medina Ohio gun show this weekend,I'll be watching/searching for a 4013/4014/4053/4054.
 
Ordered no,because of having the cutting oil/fluid on hand. One of my 'backgrounds' was working in a engineering lab model shop and operated a Bridgeport mill and Clausing engine lathe. Lately,in the automotive realm,I've fabbed up suspension bracketry in stainless steel for my Camaro Z28. I know the importance of cutting fluids.
 
Anything new on this? I'm in the process of converting a 4014 to 10mm and am following the progress in this thread :)
 
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