Hi all I am looking to rebore my 4053 to a 10mm. I was hoping a fellow forum member can point me in the right direction of a gunsmith who is reasonable and not 6 months backlogged. Also if any forum members are familiar and capable i would be willing to work something out as well. Thanks for your suggestions.
rebore a 4053 to 10mm? help needed
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Here's some info to bring you up to speed. I searched all CS40 threads but I'm sure you could find more by also chasing down 4013 and 4053. Top links are most recent threads,......
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...ion-oh-no-not-another-one.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...-cs-45-extended-magazines.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...barrel-question-10mm-conv.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...ing-4013-10mm-conversions.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...372420-my-4014-now-1014-a.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...ion-oh-no-not-another-one.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...-cs-45-extended-magazines.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...barrel-question-10mm-conv.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...ing-4013-10mm-conversions.html?highlight=cs40
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...372420-my-4014-now-1014-a.html?highlight=cs40
model 4053 to 10mm
I did a similar conversion a couple of years back. The gun works very well.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/411083-model-4053-10mm-modification.html
I did a similar conversion a couple of years back. The gun works very well.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/411083-model-4053-10mm-modification.html
Who did you have rebore the barrel to 10mm specs?
How about a nice pair of CS10s?
I just made a deal for a two tone CS40. So shortly I will have all three variations in 10MM
ANY gunsmith that has a 10MM chamber reamer can do this.
I did mine by hand, sitting and watching the news. The barrel was rechambered before the Tonight Show came on.
That is the new Barnes 10MM ammo loaded into mine. A bit underpowered for my taste, but I had it on hand for function testing
ANY gunsmith that has a 10MM chamber reamer can do this.
I did mine by hand, sitting and watching the news. The barrel was rechambered before the Tonight Show came on.
That is the new Barnes 10MM ammo loaded into mine. A bit underpowered for my taste, but I had it on hand for function testing
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I did the barrel fitting and chamber modification myself.
The .40 S&W chamber depth needs to be cut to 10mm specifications. (length)
Since joining this site about 5 years ago and being a 10mm shooter/reloader,I think a wintertime project is going to be a couple of conversions. Reaming/rechambering should be a 'piece of cake' as I've rechambered rifle barrels-got a background in machining. Fabbing magazines should be OK as I'm always fabbing stuff for automotive. Spring knowledge is good as I used to make springs on a 'spring making' machine. Probably start with a CS40 and one of the 4013,4014,4053,4054 variety. I'll post up progress as the project goes along.
4053 to 10mm
The mechanical work, fabrication, and chambering stuff was pretty straightforward.
Coming up with the proper recoil springs was another story. I started with a "heavier than required" spring configuration and backed the tension down to the point where the slide would reliably lock back....barely. The final spring combination: a nested spring set on the smaller diameter OEM guide rod....21lb Wolff (#47721) outer spring and a stock S&W OEM inner spring. I don't use a buffer. This combination works well with my practice and carry ammunition, and the 10mm conversion slide and barrel setup is a bit more accurate than the original slide/barrel in .40 S&W caliber. (reason unknown) Recoil is very manageable, even for my old hands.
Hope your project goes well.
The mechanical work, fabrication, and chambering stuff was pretty straightforward.
Coming up with the proper recoil springs was another story. I started with a "heavier than required" spring configuration and backed the tension down to the point where the slide would reliably lock back....barely. The final spring combination: a nested spring set on the smaller diameter OEM guide rod....21lb Wolff (#47721) outer spring and a stock S&W OEM inner spring. I don't use a buffer. This combination works well with my practice and carry ammunition, and the 10mm conversion slide and barrel setup is a bit more accurate than the original slide/barrel in .40 S&W caliber. (reason unknown) Recoil is very manageable, even for my old hands.
Hope your project goes well.
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Converting the 4013 to 10mm is a great project. Reaming the chamber is one of the least challenging parts of the project. I purchased the reamer from Brownells for $90. So far it has reamed two chambers and shows no wear. The amount of steel being removed is very small. Looked up the correct chamber dimensions and also checked it to my 1066. Use the depth end of a caliper and just sneak up on the correct depth. Converting the mags was the hardest for me since I started with the drilling method which creates a horrible SS burr. Then I went to a small grinder w/ 3/32" stone. Works great and leaves a very light burr. One slide modification that I haven't seen on other conversions was to remove 0.10" from that part of the slide that contacts the frame. This allows the use of a full thickness buffer and still lets the slide lock back on the last shot. The dust cover still covers that part of the slide. A little hand work on the slide is needed to reshape the trimmed area to conform to the shape of the buffer. Some folks trim the thickness of the buffer but the darn thing has a very short life. One more thing, the newer 4013's and other 40's work better than the older ones because of the smaller diameter of guide rod which allows for nested recoil springs.
Started my project. No gun yet,but been seeing/finding the 40S&W 3rd gens are selling for less then 9mm 3rd gens at gun shows. Picked up a 4013 magazine and modded it for the 10mm cartridge. Used a white follower from a 1006 magazine. Ordered some 10mm followers from Numrich.
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How did you remove the spacer from the 4013 mag? I still see the spot welds that hold them in.
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that particular one was not 'spot welded',those marks along the edge are 'crimps' on each side. Popped the spacer out with a small screwdriver,it popped out easily. Used a file to remove the internal crimp bumps. The internal crimp bumps were not large and easily filed down. Before filing,they were causing some slight interference with the follower. Once I acquire a firearm and complete that aspect,I'll start a thread for the complete project with a lot of pics. I'll find a 'welded' magazine and tackle that too.
Edit:the following pic shows the spacer that was crimped in,the crimp marks are visible along its' edge.
Edit:the following pic shows the spacer that was crimped in,the crimp marks are visible along its' edge.
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I don't recall any of my 4014 mags being spot welded.
However, the CS40 spacers are spot welded. Two welds per side. All I did was slip a flat blade screwdriver between the spacer and mag body then twist to break the weld. Remember this weld only holds two pieces of metal against each other, these are not welded for strength or stress.
Also I never bothered to spend the money replacing the followers. Aside from cosmetic appeal, I do not see a functional reason to do it.
My 10MM Mauser M2 has been functioning fine with it's 40S&W followers for a decade now
Shadow1006
Member
If you still need to have someone ream the barrel for you, this is the guy I used and he was great to deal with in a very timely manner.
Mr. Van Schneider
The Gunworks
1329 1st St
Sandusky, OH 44870
(419) 626-3034
He did a 9x25 Dillon final reaming for a Bar-Sto barrel for my S&W1006, I was very pleased with his work!
Mr. Van Schneider
The Gunworks
1329 1st St
Sandusky, OH 44870
(419) 626-3034
He did a 9x25 Dillon final reaming for a Bar-Sto barrel for my S&W1006, I was very pleased with his work!
Thank you very much ill be calling him today.
the Gunworks in Sandusky,I occasionally see them setup at some of the gun shows here in northern Ohio,never heard anything negative about them. I've talked to them about building a special AR. When the funding is in place,they'll get the project.
How about a nice pair of CS10s?
I just made a deal for a two tone CS40. So shortly I will have all three variations in 10MM
ANY gunsmith that has a 10MM chamber reamer can do this.
I did mine by hand, sitting and watching the news. The barrel was rechambered before the Tonight Show came on.
That is the new Barnes 10MM ammo loaded into mine. A bit underpowered for my taste, but I had it on hand for function testing
Besides reaming the barrel/chamber, taking out the spacer in the magazine, and upgrading the recoil spring to a wolf (Item 47721) is there anything else i am missing to complete this project?
I called and spoke to Mr. Vance. He is very knowledgable and a nice guy to speak with. He said he has done a bunch of these conversions. I am shipping out my barrels to him next week.
Responding to post#20,in the 'links' in post#2 in this thread,wasn't something mentioned about 'buffers' ?
Yes. Thank you for pointing that out . Hopefully someone can shed some light on that.
Yes........Buffer
You need something in there that cushions the blow incase the steel slide travels far enough back to impact the alloy frame.
If you have access to a mill, a little metal can be removed to make the buffer fit very nicely
I apologize for my lack of knowledge when it comes to this. I don't have any real gun smithing skill. Anything other then field stripping and cleaning my pieces, I'm a beginner, especially when it comes to any customizations....
just to make sure im on the same page, you put the new wolf spring around the factory spring and guide rod? any chance you can snap a pic of what your setup looks like? Thanks again for your and everyone else's input and help!
Yes, that's correct. I have two different slide/barrel/guide rod combinations for the single gun frame. The slide/barrel/g.rod combination in 10mm uses the smaller diameter (.235") OEM guide rod. This smaller guide rod employs a "nested" spring combination, with a smaller spring inside the larger diameter recoil spring. I have set the springs up with my ammo of choice so that the gun cycles open far enough to lock the slide back on the last round, but not far enough so that the slide impacts the frame. I'm currently using the factory OEM inner spring, part number 10867, and a Wolff 21 lb. outer spring, #47721. I'm not using a recoil buffer.
The .40 caliber components (different barrel, slide, guide rod and spring set) are fitted with the larger diameter (.290") guide rod and a single recoil spring. (Wolff, 21lbs)
I can switch the assembled slides on and off the frame, depending on what caliber I want to shoot.
The .40 caliber components (different barrel, slide, guide rod and spring set) are fitted with the larger diameter (.290") guide rod and a single recoil spring. (Wolff, 21lbs)
I can switch the assembled slides on and off the frame, depending on what caliber I want to shoot.
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