First year production. Refinished. Star on bottom of grip frame. (Factory rework?) S/N 331, all matching. Front strap bottom of grip frame and bottom front of MOP grips appear to have slight modification. A nice looking piece and my first nickel HE 44. Just sharing with everyone and to see what anyone has to say. Keen observations, good or bad, are welcomed. Thanks!
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Recent acquisition - Nickel Triplelock s/n 331
- Thread starter DrBay
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BillyMagg
Member
I'm all in, how does it shoot??? I'm still looking for another nice triple lock gents!!! I've had almost had a couple bought!! I could go newer gun, but I want another New Century First Model!!!
Sure looks like a factory refinish. Look for a date stamp on the left side of the frame under the grips which would be in a format like this (usually) 12.52 (December 1952). I don't mind them factory refinished at all and don't discount the value all that much when they are factory refinished; same people and same processes as original finish. Here's my refinished Target TL from 1909.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Wow, Jeff! That really shines! I think it would get more “prom dates” than a Registered Magnum!Sure looks like a factory refinish. Look for a date stamp on the left side of the frame under the grips which would be in a format like this (usually) 12.52 (December 1952). I don't mind them factory refinished at all and don't discount the value all that much when they are factory refinished; same people and same processes as original finish. Here's my refinished Target TL from 1909.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
The refinish looks facoty to me, too, even without a date stamp. That is a beauty and early production! Great find! Not sure what the grip frame mod is about, though.
Edit: Just went back and looked closer at the photos. Now, I don't think it is factory refinish, sorry.
Edit: Just went back and looked closer at the photos. Now, I don't think it is factory refinish, sorry.
What about the finish appears to be non factory?
The fit of the side plate is kinda wide.
Looks a bit over buffed , all the edges are rounded. But she could live in my safe anytime;-)
A nice old TL, refinished quite nicely by someone, and it definitely went back to the factory for something. A deep dive by the Historical Foundation after getting a S&W letter might shed more light on its history. Kind of a toss up on whether it's worth the cost of a letter but sometimes, especially for these old ones, there are pleasant surprises. If it were mine I might letter it just to find out where it originally went and to whom, although the "to whom" will likely be a hardware store.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Kansasgunner
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Yes. The toe of the grip frame is what I referred to when I mentioned that the front of the grips at the bottom of the frame had a slight modification. I see the things that everyone pointed out. A letter might be worthwhile given the early serial number. Thanks!
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Educate Me - I've seen this on other posts regarding a refinished firearm. What is it about the width of the side plate gap that indicates a refinish?
Mike LaNier
Member
Wow! I'm SO jealous! I had a lovely nickel Triple Lock, circa 1911, long barrel and real ivory grips that I bought years ago, which sadly was lost due to an Antifa-set wildfire back in 2020 which destroyed over 2200 homes and 300 businesses here in Southern Oregon, including ours. House burned to the ground, literally, and I never found the Triple Lock although other burned guns were located; I suspect the looters (who were on site within hours) may have scooped it up, burned or not. I'm of the opinion that looters, like child molesters, should be shot on sight, but here in the Sanctuary State of Oregon, criminals get a 'pass'. I'm down to three .44 Specials these days.
The better the side plate looks the less likely it is a refinish. Here is 12090 that shipped in April 1916. I believe it to be original (not refinished). Polishing prior to refinish usually gives some wider gaps in the side plate/frame fit.
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In addition to what DARE said about the side plate seam the folks doing the refinishing are often hurrying and too zealous application of the buffer often "dishes" the screw holes. On early S&WS (TLs, 2nd Models, etc.) the hammer strut and other pins on the left side should be domed. The factory, until after WWII, would keep them that way in a refinish but non-factory folks often buffed them flat. After WWII the factory buffed them flat too as you can see on the left side of my TL Target.
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Jeff
SWCA #1457
Here is a .44 Hand Ejector 2nd Model that has definitely been non factory refinished.
No side plate ever looked like this from a factory job.
No side plate ever looked like this from a factory job.
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The fit of the side plate should almost be invisible.
Your revolver is interesting because it has a fairly low serial number. However, without a shadow of doubt it’s renickeled. I have posted a nickel example that is original, and the obvious differences are, as follows:
1. Note the softened edges everywhere and how crisp they are in my revolver. A prime example of rebuffing;
2. Note how shiny your finish is. It should be more muted, as with mine;
3. Note some fishing around screw heads not evident on mine;
4. Note how fine the edges of markings are on mine and how the appearance of markings on yours have been softened;
5. Note how weak the S & Wlogo is on yours compared to mine;
6. Note the precise fit of the sideplate on my revolver compared to yours with asean much more open from buffing;
7. Note pins have been buffed flat on your revolver whereas mine remain raised.
I hope this helps.
1. Note the softened edges everywhere and how crisp they are in my revolver. A prime example of rebuffing;
2. Note how shiny your finish is. It should be more muted, as with mine;
3. Note some fishing around screw heads not evident on mine;
4. Note how fine the edges of markings are on mine and how the appearance of markings on yours have been softened;
5. Note how weak the S & Wlogo is on yours compared to mine;
6. Note the precise fit of the sideplate on my revolver compared to yours with asean much more open from buffing;
7. Note pins have been buffed flat on your revolver whereas mine remain raised.
I hope this helps.
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