Recommendations for a Starter Progressive Press

[Rollbar]

I just bought my first Reloading book (Modern Reloading 2nd Edition by Richard Lee) and reading it along w/watching some YouTube videos on different presses.

I was looking at the Lee Pro 1000 but I see a lot of problems on YouTube (might be operator error etc).

Not really sure what to get.

Looking to stay around $350.00 max.

Thanks again,
Jim

 

[jimkim]

There's a Dillon RL450 with the "buy it now" option on eBay for $250.00. That would be a good one. Later you could order the 550 frame and upgrade it for around $100.00.

 

[Mikey217]

What about the Hornady LNL AP? This guy seemed to do a pretty comprehensive review of Dillon vs Hornady vs Lee, and the Hornady seemed to edge slightly ahead in a couple of areas, and it's a lot cheaper. I watched a view youtube videos of folks using it, and it looks like a good machine. I know nothing has as good a warranty as Dillon, though. I'm not going to be purchasing for a couple of months, so I'm gathering research and opinions in the mean time. Any Hornady LNL AP owners or previous owners care to comment?

 

[sarge1967]

I would go with Harnady LNL AP or a Dillon 550 if you need to reload rifle. If not there is the Square Deal B for pistol only. Problem with it is you must use the Dillon special dies.i have owned Dillon and used Hornady. They are both good machines. I tend to like the Harnady better. I like the Shell Plate setup on the Hornady better than the Dilllon.

 

[Mikey217]

I would go with Harnady LNL AP or a Dillon 550 if you need to reload rifle. If not there is the Square Deal B for pistol only. Problem with it is you must use the Dillon special dies.i have owned Dillon and used Hornady. They are both good machines. I tend to like the Harnady better. I like the Shell Plate setup on the Hornady better than the Dilllon.

Yes, I guess it helps to mention what I'll be reloading. I'll be doing .40 S&W, a little bit of 9mm, some .308 and .30-06, so pistol and rifle. Although, I currently have a Lee single stage, so I was thinking maybe using the progressive for pistol rounds (since I blow through pistol ammo like crazy) and using the single stage for 'match grade' rifle ammo. Thoughts?

 

[Smith357]

I was looking at the Lee Pro 1000 but I see a lot of problems on YouTube (might be operator error etc).

Are you are a mechanical kinda guy and enjoy tinkering with machines? If yes the the Lee is a fine machine for the money, just be ready to tinker with it to get it to run right, sort of like an old British sports car or Vintage Harley. If you just want to get on it and start making ammo then get something else, anything else. I have had a Lee 1000 for 20 years set up as my .38 wadcutter machine, and when it works it is very fast, much faster than my Dillon 550. But the Lee can be a cantankerous beast and needs a tune up after every 1-2000 rounds. The Dillon has never needed tweeking to run right, it just works.

Edit: If you are going to make rifle ammo as well then get a Dillon, I often use mine as a single stage to craft my 06 loads, it's plenty beefy. Though they advertise the Lee as being able to change calibers it involves a complete tear down of the machine, you would be better off buying a separate machine for each caliber. You may be better of just getting a Rock Chukker

 

[sureshotbob]

I have the older Hornady Projector press that I've up dated with most of the L&L accessories .I load .9MM,.38 SPEC.,.357 MAG., .41 MAG. .44 SPEC.,.44 MAG., .45ACP and .45 COLT on it and love it. I do load all my rifle ammo on a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker press. I also know a few friends that use the Hornady L&L press and like them.

 

[TheTinMan]

I have a Hornady single stage, a Lyman turret press, and recently got a Hornady progressive. Only been reloading for 3-1/2 years and not high volumes, so YMMV.

I only use the single stage for rifle hand loads. There are only two dies and you need to do case prep in between those two steps. Plus I prefer hand priming so I can check every primer's seating depth by touch. That's especially important for service rifles with floating firing pins. Finally, .308 Win requires a lot of work to resize and I don't want any deflection when doing that step. Don't want any deflection when seating rifle bullets either.

$325 won't get you close to a Hornady progressive. Don't forget that you'll need dies, bushings, and shellplates.

If your budget is set and you're only loading for pistols, a turret press might be a good alternative. No, it won't be as fast as a progressive, but it can be a lot faster than a single stage. Size & bell, then hand prime, load in trays, then seat & crimp back on the press. Probably can find a Redding T-7 or Lyman T-Mag II used for a good deal too.

I like the Hornady AP for longer runs of known-good hand loads. However, if I could only have one press for pistol rounds, it probably would be the turret. Especially if I were on a tight budget. I'd rather spend my $$ on quality dies, brass, powder and bullets.

 

[Prof_Fate]

How much ammo do you want to make?

I have a lee loadmaster (the 1000's bigger bro, like a dillon 650 for comparison). The lee works and makes great ammo. I can do 350-400 pistol rounds an hour on it. I can change calibers in 10 minutes.
But as stated, it can be fiddly. That accounted for in the production numbers I show.

I did a few hundred 9mm on tuesday. The fiddling bit was with primers (the usual suspects). Ran the tray empty and changed to a fresh tray and the next 6 cases came out with no primers...5 minutes of pulling the shell plate, blowing dirt off the primer trough, put it back together and it fed no problems the rest of the session. ***? I don't know. Just is what it is.
On the plus side it's nearly impossible to get a double powder charge.

I started reloading this past winter from scratch- total investment was about $350..since then I've learned and added a few things and I'd say you need $450 to really get what you need. I got a loadmaster kit from Titan Reloading.com for around $217, plus you need a few bits and pieces like universal decapping die, FCD, second primer tray (to speed thigns up), case feeding funnel, better scale, bolts to mount the press to a SOLID bench.

My next press will be a lee turret and i'll use it for rifle where I don't need hundreds of rounds, can do single stage for some things. Won't be much cheaper I suspect by the time its all setup with powder, case trimming (not needed on pistol), etc.

 

[BobR1]

I just sold a used 550B Tuesday for $350 with the Strong Mount, Bullet Tray, Loaded Ammo Bin & Bracket, Roller Handle, extra Primer Tubes, a couple Stands, extra Tool Head, etc. That was a steal with all the add on's with it. I would guess that you could find a used 550B for $300 to $350 for just the Reloader if you looked some.

I have had 3 Dillons so far. My first was a 450, sold it to a friend years ago who is still using it. Replaced it with the 550B that I just sold. Which I replaced with a Like New 2011 Model 550B that has the Grease Zert on the linkage and Lube Ports. It also had all the add on's with it.
During the time I have owned Dillon Equipment I have not had a problem that Dillon did not help me with to my total satisfaction. Customer Service and Parts Support are both big issues if you use your equipment.

Bob

 

[BE Mike]

Of course you should keep your single-stage press. Due to case prep for rifle brass, I still use the single-stage to reload rifle rounds. I started off with a Dillon RL450 many years ago. It was the predecessor to the 550. I upgraded mine to a 550. I bought a used Dillon 650 a few years ago.

From everything I've read, I'd steer clear of the Lee progressives. Dillons are tops and Hornady progressives are very good. If I were in your shoes, and I once was, I'd get a Dillon 550 and never look back. If you can find a good one used, so much the better.

 

[71firebird400]

I have used both the Dillon 550 & 650 and the Hornady LNL AP and I would honestly go with the Hornady. It's cheaper off the bat, and I'm still confused why Dillon would build a progressive machine that doesn't auto-index (the 550).

 

[dave_g]

Rollbar, I have a Lee Loadmaster and also a RCBS Rockchucker. I don't recommend the Lee as a first press unless you are mechanically minded and like fiddling around with it. You will crush some brass and mash some primers and spill some powder. If you are just starting out it's a good idea to use a single stage to learn every part of the process.

Are you the same Rollbar on reno4x4.com? I'm in Reno and if you want to check out my setup drop me a p.m.

 

[novalty]

What caliber(s) are you going to be reloading?

 

[venomballistics]

starter progressive?!?!
no such thing son
its like buying a power saw ... fisher price don't make one so you go by quality .. Milwaukee, DeWalt, Porter Cable .. if you want it around for a while.
in the press world ... its Dillon.

where I do say "get a Lee" is where a single stage is called for.

 

[Mikey217]

"...in the press world ... its Dillon...

Why is that? Can you give the reasons you think that's a fact? I can find just as many people that say the same about the Hornady L&L. If you think the Dillons are the best, what makes you think that? I'm interested in all opinions.

Thanks!

Mike

 

[novalty]

Off topic here we come...

Add press out of price range mentioned by OP, then discuss/argue qualities of said press. Let me get some popcorn...

 

[mikld]

So far, I can't comment on the press suggestions as I don't believe a progressive press is suitable for a new reloader who has no experience and read only one book on the subject. I would suggest reading The ABCs of Reloading, getting a quality single stage press and learn what each and every reloading step does and why it's done. Then after a couple thousand rounds under your belt, go to a turret or progressive. Starting with the fastest, most complex, most automatic, press will surely lead to frustrations and mistakes, and mistakes when reloading can be catastrophic. It's much easier to learn to drive in a Toyota w/auto trans than a 8 speed Ferrari...

 

[Mikey217]

Off topic here we come...

Good point... I totally forgot what the OP was looking for and hijacked the thread. Sorry about that!

Mike

 

[Granddad]

I would vote for saving a bit longer and getting a Dillon 550 if you have your heart set on a progressive. I think another good option, unless you will load extremely high volume, is to get a single stage or a Lee 4-hole turret press kit (kits can be had for a little above $200). Both of these will still be useful is you decide to upgrade to a progressive in a couple of years.

 

[Hammerless-12]

DILLON, its the only way to go.

 

[jimkim]

I found yet another Dillon 450 on eBay that is within' your price range. It's $220.00 plus shipping. That gives you a total of $250.00 in the press and leaves the other $100.00 for the upgrade.
Dillon RL 450 Upgrade Frame Change Kit: Reloading Machine Upgrades & Updates

That keeps the press near the $350.00 limit you originally mentioned. It might go a little over, but not by much.

 

[venomballistics]

I would vote for saving a bit longer and getting a Dillon 550 if you have your heart set on a progressive. I think another good option, unless you will load extremely high volume, is to get a single stage or a Lee 4-hole turret press kit (kits can be had for a little above $200). Both of these will still be useful is you decide to upgrade to a progressive in a couple of years.

exactly my thoughts.
your not really saving money on a lee progressive if you ultimately find yourself replacing it with something better later on. the tools are the foundation of any craft. Get em right the first time even if it means scrimping and saving for a while to do it

 

[BearBio]

+1 on the 550.

Had a Hornady L-N-L. Worst ***. Worst Customer Service. Needed a replacement spring. Broke first day. Asked for 3, got 1, charged for 3. Sold it for 50% of what I paid, got a Dillon.

Twice I needed parts (my fault, totally)=both times parts were there (no charge) within 48 hours. Once the delivery was on a Sat. Needed a primer cup (lost mine during a move)--C/S convinced me that I needed the whole arm (so it was easier/quicker to change)=no charge.

 

[71firebird400]

+1 on the 550.

Had a Hornady L-N-L. Worst ***. Worst Customer Service. Needed a replacement spring. Broke first day. Asked for 3, got 1, charged for 3. Sold it for 50% of what I paid, got a Dillon.

Twice I needed parts (my fault, totally)=both times parts were there (no charge) within 48 hours. Once the delivery was on a Sat. Needed a primer cup (lost mine during a move)--C/S convinced me that I needed the whole arm (so it was easier/quicker to change)=no charge.

That's strange you had bad customer service. Hornady has sent me several free shellplates when I was having an issue, and has been 100% accommodating of any questions I had for them. Haven't had anything break on the LNL that wasn't my own fault.

 

[TheTinMan]

I tend to agree that starting out on a true progressive press could be challenging in terms of learning how to hand load from scratch. However, I don't see any problem with starting on a turret press (or a Dillon 550B). You can use it as a single stage press with batch processing until you're comfortable with performing two or more steps on a case at a time.

That's strange you had bad customer service. Hornady has sent me several free shellplates when I was having an issue, and has been 100% accommodating of any questions I had for them. Haven't had anything break on the LNL that wasn't my own fault.

My experiences with Hornady customer service have been consistently good. When I called last week to ask some questions about the progressive press, I mentioned that I have an older Hornady powder measure without a baffle in the hopper. The tech immediately said "Please let me send you one." Their support on the progressive press also has been excellent.

DILLON, its the only way to go.

Posts like this contribute nothing to the conversation other than to aggravate some of us.

While the Dillon 550B is widely used and loved by many, it has some limitations. 4 die stations isn't enough if you want to crimp in a separate step, especially if you want a powder check/cop die.

The Dillon XL650 is an entirely different animal. Fantastic machine AFAICT. Unfortunately, it costs substantially more than a Hornady (especially when adding alternate calibers) and has much slower primer changeover. That said, I wouldn't want anything else if I needed 500+ rounds a month of a single caliber.

 

[Rollbar]

Are you the same Rollbar on reno4x4.com? I'm in Reno and if you want to check out my setup drop me a p.m.

Yes I'm on Reno 4x4.

I will be using/needing the press because I shoot iCORE and Steel Plate matches and thought of the savings in the future.

I am mechanically inclined but I don't want to have to fiddle w/the press all the time.

I will reload .38spl and .45acp for now.

Thank you all so much for the information-I will research it and go from there.


Sure love my S&W 586 (first S&W). I shot last Saturday against the bottom feeders and came in third using a revolver

Sample Video (jbsgroup01):
SWFA Steel Shooting Match. - YouTube

SWFA Steel Shooting Match - YouTube

 

[Rollbar]

One question that has been bugging me as well, in regards to the bullets.

I see everyone using lead bullets and I was going to use FMJ bullets.

Reason, I was always under the impression (old days I guess) the lead will build up, and harder to clean etc. and I just don't want to mess with it. I don't mind paying a few cents more for FMJ but if not needed then.......

Is this true?

 

[Smith357]

Why is that? Can you give the reasons you think that's a fact? I can find just as many people that say the same about the Hornady L&L. If you think the Dillons are the best, what makes you think that? I'm interested in all opinions.

Thanks!

Mike

The finest Customer Service and the lifetime "No BS Warranty" .

Need a part? Call them up and they ship it out free of charge. If a non user serviceable part happens to break send in the rig and they refurbish the whole kit and kabootle and it comes back to you like new.

 

[dave_g]

Rollbar, you might want to steer away from the Lee. The priming system works good for large pistol, but small pistol it can be a pain. When loading 9mm I frequently have to take the shell plate off to unjam something. Straight wall cases are easier but I still get occasional problems. Since you are loading for competition the Lee might cost you time you'd rather spend on something else. A little more money now for a Dillon or other brand might save you some hassle. I like my Lee, but messing with it is a hobby unto itself.

Bullet wise, I primarily shoot lead. Some of my guns lead a little, but I've learned how to clean it out and it's not a real problem. The big issue is does your bullet match the load you want. I had a lot of trouble with commercial "hard cast" bullets leading. A bullet that is too hard for the load will lead. A bullet that is too small for the bore will lead. With a revolver the size of the chamber opening is important. What kind of lube is on the bullet is important. If you can find someone shooting the same gun as you who uses lead maybe they can recommend a good brand of cast lead bullets. When the bullet matches what you are doing with it you should get good results with lead. Now I cast my own so I can control everything and I get good results.