Red dot sight for S&W Model 52

Dave Salyer convinced me to switch to Area Aiming, and Brian Zins convinced me to start moving the trigger as the dot was approaching the aiming area, and to keep moving the trigger smoothly the whole time.

Dave's advice was easy to follow, and instead of having 10 holes surrounding the bullseye, they are now evenly distributed including the most shots closer to the bullseye. Brian's advice I'm finding much more difficult to apply.


I now have two new pair of glasses, one for the red dot, and one for the 24" distance to my front sight (or 30", for one hand shooting). Especially for steel sights, if the front sight is not perfectly sharp, accuracy is lost, at least for me.


Rick H, in what way does the BME mount not fit as nicely as it could?
 
Everyone tells me, and my own experience matches what they say, that the Model 52 is very picky. Mistakes that you make on other guns look far worse with the 52. That includes grip, follow-through, trigger release, everything. I accepted that this is true, but I never found a reason for it. I'm guessing that the bullet is so much slower, the gun can be disturbed before the bullet has left the barrel, but that's just a guess. It's picky about everything, including reloads. I guess with 9mm those issues don't exist so much?

How would you compare the red dots on the M-52 compared the the steel sights you removed?
I didn't experience any issues shooting my 52 that varied from shooting any other guns except for it's pickiness on ammo. I've never had a gun that .1 of a grain of powder could make such a difference in accuracy. Speculation on my part, but this may be the result of the rate of twist not being optimal for .38 Special.
 
So many people have written that the Model 52 is not forgiving of even the slightest error. I also read the articles written when the gun first came out - they're posted on this forum in the historical area.

I don't have any opinion, either way. I accept all the things I've read, but I haven't shot the 52 enough yet to form my own opinions.

Clark has a barrel available now with a different (better??) twist rate.

Back to this thread - first thing I'm planning on doing when I get home is shooting with the steel sights. Depending on how that goes (meaning how well I can now see the sights), I may get one of the mounts for a red dot sight. Lots of information up above to consider, and I'm likely to order the mounts for both Aimpoint and the LT, since I already have those sights - just need to switch things around. Will decide all this based on what kind of groups I'm getting.

I guess this puts me back to the original post I made here, but thanks to all the replies, I have a much better understanding of what's involved.
 
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Make sure you follow the BME installation instructions very carefully. For removing the rear sight (direction and to watch for flying springs and plungers under it) and on installing the mount at the correct front to back angle to ensure you have enough elevation adjustment on your dot.
 
Don, in the forums here, advised me to tap the left side of the steel sights with a brass punch, after loosening (removing) the tiny screw that locks it in place. I was worried about the spring and plunger, so I did this inside a plastic baggie made for cooking turkeys. No worries, nothing sprung out, and I removed the spring and plunger easily.

I haven't seen the instructions yet on installing the BME mount. I'm expecting to install it on the right side, and push to the left, the opposite of how the S&W sight was removed. Not sure what you mean by the correct front to back angle, is this something that is adjustable? With the S&W sight, I could push it back into position with finger pressure, moving it close to the hole, then dropping in the plunger and spring, and holding the spring down as I moved the sight over the spring.

Can you post a copy of the instructions here? Or, I can write BME. I'm guessing it is a light press fit. I was wondering about how using a brass punch would affect the optics, but if they can withstand the recoil of the gun, I guess the brass punch won't be that bad.
 
The mount has two sets of set screws on it. Two or three at the front and two or three at the back to adjust the front to back tilt of the mount. When installing the sight you are supposed to tighten either the front or rear set of screws first to make sure the mount is properly tilted before socking down all the screws. If I can find the directions I will post them.
 
Thanks - that all makes sense, by the third time I read it. Sounds pretty straight forward. The only change I might make, is to apply the Loctite only after I have the sight zero'd in. Very straight forward.
 
Mike: It has always driven me crazy that these red dot manufacturers can't standardize the darn mounting screws. There are many different patterns, but some do cross-over. The BME mount that I bought for my RMR just didn't fit as well as I would have liked in the rear sight slot. The mount had quite a loose fit, but the lock down screws did tighten it down. When I bought mine I had to wait quite a long time for it because it was considered a custom job being an RMR mount. In all honesty it looked bad on the pistol, but it worked. I wanted to get another one, but the owner of the company had some health issues which really set him back. By that time I found out EGW made an RMR mount for the 52 and I ordered one from them and it fills up the rear sight slot much better. I'm a little picky about stuff like this, but others may not have cared. Oh, also the screw holes in my first BME mount weren't in the correct spot, so I had to send the mount back and have them send me a different one. No big deal in that regard, just time consuming.


Rick H.
 
.......The BME mount that I bought for my RMR just didn't fit as well as I would have liked in the rear sight slot. The mount had quite a loose fit, but the lock down screws did tighten it down......... In all honesty it looked bad on the pistol, but it worked.......I'm a little picky about stuff like this, but others may not have cared.......

Hmm, I'm very picky about stuff like that too, and if it's not going to look like it belongs on the 52, I'm not going to be satisfied. Will wait until I get to shoot it with the stock sights. If my eyes cooperate, I might just give up on optics for this gun. Thanks for the head's up!
 
Mike: I probably could have "cleaned" things up a bit by adding some shim stock under the BME mount to close up some of the gaps, but it's kind of the only game in town for a Model 52 at least at that time. If BME offers a mount to fit your optic you may want to order it just so you have one. I haven't spoken directly to the gentleman that owns BME so I don't know how he is doing right now, but one never knows how long he will opt to stay in business. If I recall right he doesn't have any family members interested in continuing the business which is never a good thing. I do know he was quite busy after his medical leave and I hope he has caught up on his orders.

I have spoken with some other manufacturers of red dot mounts about making something for the Model 52 and pretty much ran into a stone wall. There just isn't enough interest in mounts for these pistols to make it profitable to produce something and couple that with the plethora of optics on the market which pattern would they make.

Rick H.
 
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I suspect you are correct, and if I don't order the parts soon, I may no longer be able to. Get them while I can. I guess for me, that's both the mount for the Aimpoint, and the mount for the Ultradot LT. Not sure if I'll use either, but it's not all that much money, and I'll have them for the future, should I want to use them.

Good advice, thank you!
 
FWIW: A large piece of Saran Wrap placed over the rear of the slide while removing the rear sight can help prevent a trip to your knees with a magnet. ;)
 
I did it one step better - went to my local food market, and bought a box of "turkey cooking bags". All sorts of stuff plus my hands can go in it, it's easy to work inside of, and nothing can "escape". Saran Wrap would probably be just as good, but the plastic baggie is foolproof. I can, and have, put the whole gun inside it. Strange though, none of my springs ever went flying, but I did follow Don's advice to put my hand over the part to prevent them from springing at all.
 
Wanted to thank all for the Info. I have a 52-2 with a Bomar Rib and it has problems cycling, about once in 5 rounds it leaves the spent case in the chamber and tries to put a second round behind it. Picked up a new slide (52) and parts to finish it are HARD to find, but I think a dot sight in place of the rear sight (cannot find one) would be a good temporary fix. I'm still looking for a firing pin spring, search goes on.
Regards
Rick Bunn
 
........I'm still looking for a firing pin spring, search goes on........

Wolff must have them - I ordered the set of three recoil springs, and the firing pin spring was included for free. You might want to get the same thing, so you can also try out the different recoil springs, in addition to getting the new firing pin spring.

About the other problem - could it be your ejector is bent or worn?
 
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