Red Dot Sight for S&W revolver

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TRR8 or R8 come from the factory ready to go :)

I don't have any red dots on my revolvers, but have a Trijicon RMR on a Glock 19 and a older doc 3 on a Glock 17. If your of the age that the front sight is fuzzy, it's a great option. The ability to just focus on trigger control, grip etc... not worrying about sight picture is really nice.
 
I have red dots on several revolvers:


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Dale53
 
My 686 competitor and vortex SPARC on an American Defense QR mount.


Standard 686 with same optic setup except I used a Warne Maxima rail.
Both guns I could remove the optic for iron sights and quickly put the red dot on and it stayed zeroed.
 
I like the Fast Fire III on an Alchin mount. I also like the C-more. C-more with a 16 minute dot for Steel shooting is the best I've found.
 

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I have decided that I want to buy a 4-5 inch barrel and a competition quality gun. I will be carrying it in open carry so I am looking for something I can holster. How do I find the right rail? Alchin? FFlll? Which gun?b686 or 627?
 
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I like the Fast Fire III on an Alchin mount. I also like the C-more. C-more with a 16 minute dot for Steel shooting is the best I've found.

Went to their site but could not figure out which mount you have on the gun pictured. I like that setup. What's the part number?
 
BTW any factory gun you buy won't be competition ready. In the last two months three friends have purchased 9mm Performance Center revolvers and all three have needed a little action work to be ready to shoot. My 627 pictured above had a terrible D/A trigger when purchased. It really doesn't take much work on these new guns to get a really nice 2lb. S/A and 8lb. D/A trigger but it needs done.
 
I found the Allchin mount, thanks. One thing I noticed is that it uses two screws to mount it. The Allchin description mentioned that some pistols come pre drilled and tapped. Is this true or do I add that to my list of things for the gunsmith to do?
 
I did go back to the S&W revolver section and didn't find any pistols that looked like the had pre drilled holes near the rear sights. Am I missing something?
 
Right around 1994 S&W started drilling and tapping new revolvers. As mentioned in the last post, if the front of your rear sight base is rounded, it is drilled and tapped underneath. You need to remove the factory sight.
 
Thanks, now to pick out a pistol. I was hoping for a .38/.357 mag in a med sizes frame, (to carry non CCW), that would be relatively accurate out of the box. I am willing to pay for a performance weapon, but they seem to be only available in a larger frame. Should I buy a "standard" gun? Or am I missing something?
 
I've found the L frame guns to be scary accurate with some pretty nice triggers right out of the box. You can buy a 686+ that holds 7 rounds. But I do like the fact that the 627 holds 8 rounds and is set up for moon clips from the factory. For non CCW I wouldn't let the few ozs. difference bother me.
 
I've found the L frame guns to be scary accurate with some pretty nice triggers right out of the box. You can buy a 686+ that holds 7 rounds. But I do like the fact that the 627 holds 8 rounds and is set up for moon clips from the factory. For non CCW I wouldn't let the few ozs. difference bother me.

Is the 627 an L frame? I did like the looks of the 686ssr, but it only holds 6 rounds. The pictures in the catalogue do not give you a good idea of the difference in size. Any idea where I can go to actually see or hold it?
 
Thanks, I have decided on a 686 Pro Plus and will use the Allchin rail with the Burris FF3. Does anyone make a holster that will fit this rig? Non CCW of course, something I can wear in the back country.
 
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