Reduced power rebound spring?
- Thread starter golfrj
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rbert0005
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I use 14# regularly.
Bob
Bob
harry carey
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the Trapper kit comes with two trigger rebound spring, one lighter than the other, and, a reduced power mainspring.
Good question golfrj. I use Wolff springs in my Ruger Vaqueros for cowboy action shooting and they work well. I have no experience with them in DA revolvers.
the original question was about rebound springs. For those who have used them, are their claims about the Power Rib Mainspring smoothing out trigger pull and stacking true? Wolff states not to use reduced power mainsprings in defensive guns. Does that go for rebound springs as well?
From the Wolff web site: "Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results. For most target and non-critical applications, we recommend the TYPE-2 spring which is reduced power. For critical applications such as law enforcement, we strongly recommend the TYPE-1 spring which is factory equivalent in strength."
the original question was about rebound springs. For those who have used them, are their claims about the Power Rib Mainspring smoothing out trigger pull and stacking true? Wolff states not to use reduced power mainsprings in defensive guns. Does that go for rebound springs as well?
From the Wolff web site: "Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results. For most target and non-critical applications, we recommend the TYPE-2 spring which is reduced power. For critical applications such as law enforcement, we strongly recommend the TYPE-1 spring which is factory equivalent in strength."
bountyhunter
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Depends. Reducing main spring force can cause misfires, hence their warning. Reducing the RB spring can give a reluctant trigger return, so just make sure to keep enough for a snappy trigger return and you are fine.
MaineProbation
Member
I have had better luck removing the rebound slide and smoothing up the inside chamber which houses the rebound spring. There are often burrs which cause binding of the spring. I use a very fine (#300-400 grit) paper around a small dowel (1/8" diameter or so. Also, take off burrs on the outside of the rebound slide where it bears against the frame. Do this with the same paper on a flat surface and rub the bearing surface of the rebound slide against the paper. Clean the grit off before reassembly and use a light oil. This will smooth up the trigger rebound action without risking using too light a spring.
I use the standard power-rib mainspring in my model 629... It has been in there for years.
I can tell you that I have never had a mis-fire due to a light primer strike, and the difference in smoothness between the power-rib mainspring and the factory main spring is really astounding to me.
When I get ready to smooth out a S&W for myself, all I do is change the mainspring to a standard rate power-rib mainspring, and while I'm in there, I use q-tips to clean every little nook and cranny inside the revolver. If I see an obvious burr, I smooth it out. I then reassemble the revolver using a good quality lubricant as I go. Others have marveled at the smoothness attained through these easy steps.
Regards,
Raven6
I can tell you that I have never had a mis-fire due to a light primer strike, and the difference in smoothness between the power-rib mainspring and the factory main spring is really astounding to me.
When I get ready to smooth out a S&W for myself, all I do is change the mainspring to a standard rate power-rib mainspring, and while I'm in there, I use q-tips to clean every little nook and cranny inside the revolver. If I see an obvious burr, I smooth it out. I then reassemble the revolver using a good quality lubricant as I go. Others have marveled at the smoothness attained through these easy steps.
Regards,
Raven6
I don't know about Wolf springs personally but they have a good reputation. People traditionally cut three coils off the rebound spring to get a lighter pull.
That isn't as good as a full length, lighter pound spring though. The other poster is right about just minimal smoothing of the moving parts and correct length double action sear making for a nice trigger pull. Too long of a double action sear makes for a bump (stubbing) right as the hammer is about to go back the last little bit and fall.
Older Smiths left the factory smooth. A prewar Smith didn't need any action work.
That isn't as good as a full length, lighter pound spring though. The other poster is right about just minimal smoothing of the moving parts and correct length double action sear making for a nice trigger pull. Too long of a double action sear makes for a bump (stubbing) right as the hammer is about to go back the last little bit and fall.
Older Smiths left the factory smooth. A prewar Smith didn't need any action work.
photoman
Member
I'm currently running a 13# Wolff rebound spring in my Model 64 DAO and it's too soft for my liking.
