Reducing SA trigger pull on 686
- Thread starter Boscoe
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The mainspring strain screw (the one you are loosening) should be left tightened fully.
Factory spec. for the SA pull is 3 pounds.
Single action trigger pull can usually be lowered in small increments by using a lighter rebound slide spring.
Lower power rebound springs of varying strengths (13,14,15,16 etc) can be purchased from Wilson, Wolff and other vendors.
I have found that in many cases, the 14 pound spring is a good alternative to the 17 pound factory spring.
Carter
Factory spec. for the SA pull is 3 pounds.
Single action trigger pull can usually be lowered in small increments by using a lighter rebound slide spring.
Lower power rebound springs of varying strengths (13,14,15,16 etc) can be purchased from Wilson, Wolff and other vendors.
I have found that in many cases, the 14 pound spring is a good alternative to the 17 pound factory spring.
Carter
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This! Especially the part about keeping the strain screw fully tightened. It is not for trigger pull adjustment.
SteveJewels
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When I use the little screw in the handle to lower trigger
pull, I get light primer strikes.
Is there a way to get to say 2 1/2 # SA pull without this
result?
What's wrong with the 3lb short length of pull? Sure you can start clipping or swapping to weaker springs, but at the cost of not being able to reliably ignite a wide range of ammo. Seems like a case of not leaving well enough alone and causing problems just so you can look for a solution to fix something that's not broken.
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I've been around long enough on various forums and even Reddit to know that people still have reliably issues with Wilson and Wolff springs with certain ammo. Unless it's a competition revolver that's being tuned to always use a specific type of ammo during competitions, a dumb thing to do just to shave off a ~0.5lb off of the trigger weight.
The best route would be to take the revolver to a competent gunsmith and have them polish and do a trigger job the right way. Other than that, shooting, dry firing, and breaking the trigger in works also. The easy way, which is cutting coils, loosening the mainspring, lightening the trigger return and other springs, typically causes more problems than it solves. It's like watching those prescription drug commercials where someone takes a pill to get rid of a headache, but the side effects are worse than the headache itself....
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A lighter recoil spring and adjusting the length of the strain screw. Always adjust the length and NEVER leave them untightened. If you are doing this for the first time or two, let me suggest getting a bunch of extra screws and operate on them, this way you always have the factory original. Mark the original screw and put it in the box with the revolver.
After a few times doing this you should be able to "gauge" the pull by feel and then you've got it. Never go too light! It is generally agreed that the industries hardest primers are CCI - so test the gun with those and check to make sure you are getting all proper depth primer hits. Never make the weight just hard enough for certain brands of primers - you will run into trouble!
After a few times doing this you should be able to "gauge" the pull by feel and then you've got it. Never go too light! It is generally agreed that the industries hardest primers are CCI - so test the gun with those and check to make sure you are getting all proper depth primer hits. Never make the weight just hard enough for certain brands of primers - you will run into trouble!
-BTM-
Member
All the above applies to the 629 as well.
Darn, after nearly 60 years of revolver use I just learn they have recoil springs!
How about REBOUND SPRING or TRIGGER RETURN SPRING?
Chief does have a point about the need to balance trigger return and mainspring weights so the trigger doesn't fail to properly return.
As a revolver newb, I always thought the single action pull weight were pretty sweet.
I've been shooting Glocks for the last 20 years...
When I get my 617 back, I'm going to shoot it for awhile before I go messin with it.
I've been shooting Glocks for the last 20 years...
When I get my 617 back, I'm going to shoot it for awhile before I go messin with it.
-BTM-
Member
When I use the little screw in the handle to lower trigger
pull, I get light primer strikes.
Is there a way to get to say 2 1/2 # SA pull without this
result?
What is the S/A pull weight now? Are you using a scale?
I have done a bunch of trigger work but never felt any need to mess with the S/A sear on any S&W revolver.
Now that I think about it, I shoot DA pretty much all the time.
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Protocall_Design
Member
You can get a good SA trigger pull on any gun. The DA pull is the one that takes all the effort. Most Smiths come with a perfectly good SA trigger, unless they have push off. That is easily fixed, though.
