Refinish or leave alone?

Revolver Man

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I have this old nickel, pinned barrel .38 that was my grandfathers. I think it's a K frame, but there aren't any model numbers on it. I don't know when it was manufactured, but the serial number is 608568. I was thinking of having the nickel finish redone. What are your thoughts, and if I did, who's should I have do it?
 

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Is the action tight? Good lock-up little end play? If so I'd probably shoot it and enjoy it for a while. It's a classic as it is. Five screw! Is it marked 38 Smith & Wesson or 38 Special?

You may come to accept the "aged" look. You can always have it refinished. Either was its an attractive piece. Those stocks are great. I'd like to get a pair.
 
I have this old nickel, pinned barrel .38 that was my grandfathers. I think it's a K frame, but there aren't any model numbers on it. I don't know when it was manufactured, but the serial number is 608568. I was thinking of having the nickel finish redone. What are your thoughts, and if I did, who's should I have do it?

It's an M&P most likely manufactured around 1929. It is also most unlikely to have an original 2" barrel; check the serial, if any, stamped under the barrel. It's too early for a snubbie.

From the pictures, it's hard to tell whether the nickel is original because of the artificial light, but it might be. If it is, refinishing would wipe out any residual collector value, and I personally don't think the gun would gain from a refinish, but that's a personal decision. It certainly wouldn't gain any value commensurate to the cost of the refinish.
 
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Are you joking? A pre-WW2 2" .38 M&P.! That's a VERY scarce gun and even more so if it was nickel from the factory. I don't see any signs of a refinish and it looks great to me as-is. Is there an N stamped under the barrel with the serial number above the ejector rod?
 
I wouldn't refinish that fine old revolver, but I would take some Flitz or Simichrome polish and a soft felt wheel and gently polish it with a Dremel on the lowest speed setting. That will clean the nickel up quite a bit in itself. But be very careful and only run at low speed and gentle pressure.
 
THE WISDOM OF THE AGES

Would you give your Grand Dad a purple spike hair cut and put him in a nylon jump suit?

That old timer earned those scrapes and scratches plumb honest. It would be a shame to cover up it's story.

The "Eccentric Old Coot" who spoke these words is perhaps not so eccentric after all. Well maybe eccentric, but still of sound mind.

If-----IF you choose to ignore his advice and counsel, you should send it to Fords. You will almost certainly be very pleased with the result. Whether or not you come to regret your action of making something out it it wasn't is another matter.

The bottom line comes out like this: You're the man in charge.

Ralph Tremaine
 
I'm going to amend my previous statement that the serial is too early for a snubbie. It's still early. The 2" barrels weren't produced until the mid-1930s.

But a little research on the forum produced evidence from several years ago of another 2" gun in that serial neighborhood, 608xxx (unfortuately the member hid the rest), that lettered as original and shipped in 1937. Same configuration as yours, nickel, round butt, black rubber, single gun shipment. Regrettably, the Photobucket dump wiped out the pictures.

So it all comes down to the underbarrel serial on your gun. If it's there, you have something quite valuable.
 
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Is the action tight? Good lock-up little end play? If so I'd probably shoot it and enjoy it for a while. It's a classic as it is. Five screw! Is it marked 38 Smith & Wesson or 38 Special?

You may come to accept the "aged" look. You can always have it refinished. Either was its an attractive piece. Those stocks are great. I'd like to get a pair.

Lock up is very tight on all chambers and the cylinder is tight. I really don't believe it was shot much. He was a State Probation Officer. It's marked on the left side of the barrel, "38 S&W SPC CTG."
 
It's an M&P most likely manufactured around 1929. It is also most unlikely to have an original 2" barrel; check the serial, if any, stamped under the barrel. It's too early for a snubbie.

From the pictures, it's hard to tell whether the nickel is original because of the artificial light, but it might be. If it is, refinishing would wipe out any residual collector value, and I personally don't think the gun would gain from a refinish, but that's a personal decision. It certainly wouldn't gain any value commensurate to the cost of the refinish.

These numbers are stamped under barrel are "608568," the serial number.
 
I'm going to amend my previous statement that the serial is too early for a snubbie. It's still early. The 2" barrels weren't produced until the mid-1930s.

But a little research on the forum produced evidence from several years ago of another 2" gun in that serial neighborhood, 608xxx (unfortuately the member hid the rest), that lettered as original and shipped in 1937. Same configuration as yours, nickel, round butt, black rubber, single gun shipment. Regrettably, the Photobucket dump wiped out the pictures.

So it all comes down to the underbarrel serial on your gun. If it's there, you have something quite valuable.

The serial number is stamped under the barrel.
 
The serial number is stamped under the barrel.

Okay, you may have a winner. This is getting serious. I asked the moderators to move this thread to the correct subforum, 1896 to 1961. There are experts on these that should see this who apparently haven't yet.

Three things:
1. Refinish should be off the table.
2. You should take some SHARP close-up pictures in good, preferably natural light, especially of the logo and stampings, so it's easier to assess the originality of the finish.
3. Consider getting a history letter.

PS: Consider editing the title of your thread to "Pre-War M&P with 2" barrel" or something like that. Might get more attention :)
 
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No I would not refinish. Just get you some Mothers Mag chrome polish and an old T-shirt or similar no need nor would I use a Dremel tool. Take the grips off being careful do not pry on them. Just unscrew the grip screw until it is just about out then gently tap on the screw head with the handle of the screwdriver this will push the opposite grip loose. Once this one is off you can push the other one off from the inside. Take the rag and put a dab of mothers mag and with the tip of you finger start working the polish on the surface of the gun then use a clean spot of the cloth to buff it off you will be amazed just don't over do it.
 
I will even vote against polishing it. Just wax or oil to prevent rust, and DEFINITELY do the research. If this is all original including the plating you have a heckuva find. I'm sure more of the Forum experts can help, but this could be a rare one!

EDIT:

Looking more closely I'd bet 10 bucks the finish is original.
 
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