Who carries metal wedges? I need a few.Wood really dries out and shrinks in this climate [emoji57]
Refurbishing an old axe.
- Thread starter Smith357
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I applaud your results, really nice job.
For a while I was re habbing sledge hammer heads I had around with new fiberglass handles. The last step is to pour epoxy into the head to fill voids.
There is always extra epoxy left, so I used it on all the loose wood handle axe and hammers I could find. Some of them had had so many wedges and nails driven into them over the years that they were unsafe. The epoxy oozed it's way into all the crevaces and pours and made them all rock solid, that way I maintained the character of the old wood handles.
My way worked, but yours is much more elegant. If I tried to do what you did, it would be so wobbly that I would be reaching for some epoxy. Really nice job you did. Ed
For a while I was re habbing sledge hammer heads I had around with new fiberglass handles. The last step is to pour epoxy into the head to fill voids.
There is always extra epoxy left, so I used it on all the loose wood handle axe and hammers I could find. Some of them had had so many wedges and nails driven into them over the years that they were unsafe. The epoxy oozed it's way into all the crevaces and pours and made them all rock solid, that way I maintained the character of the old wood handles.
My way worked, but yours is much more elegant. If I tried to do what you did, it would be so wobbly that I would be reaching for some epoxy. Really nice job you did. Ed
OP
Smith357
US Veteran
I am not going to risk splitting the haft with a metal wedge unless needed. Driving a blunt metal wedge into end grain without a kerf can sometimes do more harm than good.
When it comes to axes, to get something new that is as well made as the old axes will cost you north of $100. A good Council Tool Velvicut, Gransfors Bruks, or Wetterlings felling axe will start at $130. This set up cost less than $20 and a few hours of my time where I was doing nothing anyway.
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Engine49guy
Member
Refinishing old axes brings back lots of memories being traditional FD rookie busy work ,
I have done a few in my day and suspect many of those old FD axe heads were older than I was.
Sadly about 5 years ago some genius decided we needed fancy new heavy axes with yellow plastic handles then collected up the old ones and trashed them.
Luckily I was able to rescue 1 flat and 1 pick head from the dumpster before they went to the landfill , the pickhead now hangs next to my retired leather Cairns helmet ...
I have done a few in my day and suspect many of those old FD axe heads were older than I was.
Sadly about 5 years ago some genius decided we needed fancy new heavy axes with yellow plastic handles then collected up the old ones and trashed them.
Luckily I was able to rescue 1 flat and 1 pick head from the dumpster before they went to the landfill , the pickhead now hangs next to my retired leather Cairns helmet ...
Nice save on that axe.
Years back when we bought our camp (now our retirement house) there were a bunch of older tools lying in a corner of the old garage. A couple shovels, a rake, a sledge hammer, a single and a double bladed axe. All had broken handles with the stump still enclosed by the neck of the tool. Took my time and drilled them out. Then used a hand and a bench grinder to clean up the metal. Used a grinder and files to tune up the blades of the axes.
The next village over had a very old rural type hardware store in it. In the basement they had a few barrels of all sorts of handles. Hunted around and found handles that looked like I could fix all of the tools. Prices were reasonable and I picked up a bunch of wooden and steel wedges. Of course I had to whittle or grind to make a good decent fit.
Still using all of these tools that I fixed up over 25 years ago. From what I see when I go to the big box stores my tools are much better that most of the stuff they sell today.
Years back when we bought our camp (now our retirement house) there were a bunch of older tools lying in a corner of the old garage. A couple shovels, a rake, a sledge hammer, a single and a double bladed axe. All had broken handles with the stump still enclosed by the neck of the tool. Took my time and drilled them out. Then used a hand and a bench grinder to clean up the metal. Used a grinder and files to tune up the blades of the axes.
The next village over had a very old rural type hardware store in it. In the basement they had a few barrels of all sorts of handles. Hunted around and found handles that looked like I could fix all of the tools. Prices were reasonable and I picked up a bunch of wooden and steel wedges. Of course I had to whittle or grind to make a good decent fit.
Still using all of these tools that I fixed up over 25 years ago. From what I see when I go to the big box stores my tools are much better that most of the stuff they sell today.
OP
Smith357
US Veteran
Bee's Wax in farm country is plentiful and cheap, and its self life can be measured in decades. I get 2 lb. blocks for 5 bucks from a beekeeper. I keep some in a small crock pot on my bench. When cooked in, penetrates deep into the wood fibers and seals, it beads water, and polishes to a nice sheen. I use Bee's Wax for any number of things including sowing, bullet lubes, leather balms, topical ointments, and fuel.
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In the north country we can just about always get Sno-Seal, which is mostly beeswax. I use it on both leather and wood, as well as on my boots.
I follow this thread with interest as my wife brought home an old Plumb shingling axe. It works pretty well, but the handle is an inch ot two too short, so I just may try may hand at installing a new handle, if I find one I like.
I follow this thread with interest as my wife brought home an old Plumb shingling axe. It works pretty well, but the handle is an inch ot two too short, so I just may try may hand at installing a new handle, if I find one I like.
