Registered Magnum - Questions

[szuppo]

I've been thinking on this long and hard for some time now. My current Collection is geared towards early Post War Pre Model Revolvers.
I've alwyas had a fascination with the Registered Magnum and it has been in the back of my head for quite some time.
I am looking to get one that retains the original finish in excellent condition either in a 3.5", 4" or 5".
I am even willing to sell some of my premium condition Pre Models to do this.

What is a realistic price? $6000- $10,000?
You will have to excuse my ignorance as I do not venture over to this side too often
and have limited knowledge.

Paying that amount would one expect to have associated extras with th gun like the box, registration papers, grip adapter or any other items that may have accompanied them?

Where are some of the best places to look?


Best Regards,
Stephen J. Zuppo
S&WCA #1969

 

[szuppo]

I've been thinking on this long and hard for some time now. My current Collection is geared towards early Post War Pre Model Revolvers.
I've alwyas had a fascination with the Registered Magnum and it has been in the back of my head for quite some time.
I am looking to get one that retains the original finish in excellent condition either in a 3.5", 4" or 5".
I am even willing to sell some of my premium condition Pre Models to do this.

What is a realistic price? $6000- $10,000?
You will have to excuse my ignorance as I do not venture over to this side too often
and have limited knowledge.

Paying that amount would one expect to have associated extras with th gun like the box, registration papers, grip adapter or any other items that may have accompanied them?

Where are some of the best places to look?


Best Regards,
Stephen J. Zuppo
S&WCA #1969

 

[Art Doc]

A short barrel RM in original finish with box, tools and docs?

I would think you would start at about $8,000 and quickly go up from there.

Collecting high quality RMs is performed in a pretty rarified atmosphere. The air is much, much too thin for me up there.

We're talking $1,200 screwdrivers and $4,000 boxes, here.

 

[m-1911]

And don't forget to add another $1000 for a grip adapter

 

[szuppo]

I'm not too concerned what the final price is, just whatt to expect to pay for one with the complete package. Or even if they are available that way.

 

[DHENRY]

Steve,
The sum of the parts is often more expensive than each item.
With screwdrivers...er...'sight-adjustment-tools' at $ 1,000, boxes and grip adapters the same (as Gary pointed out), it's REAL easy to roll into a complete set at the $ 10,000-and-up level.
Since there were a lot of 5" guns, and you like shorter barrels, my suggestion would be to look for one of those.
After reading all there is to know, buy it.
Get to know it, shoot it, study it some more
Perhaps establish a plan to fill out the collection with different barrel-lengths and sight combinations.
IMHO, condition trumps all, with provenence a close second.
Try to stay with an original gun, (and a basic one, at that) until your studies make you very much at ease with the RM market.
It's a great sub-type for collectors, but not for the faint of heart (or wallet).
I would venture a guess that most 'complete packages' are already in the hands of serious RM specialists.
Start with the gun. You'll like it!
Don

 

[szuppo]

Thanks Don,

I will attempt to locate a shorter barreled gun and try to pick up the other items as needed.

Are they really scarce in excellent condition? I'm more concerned with condition vs. provenence and not to sound like an ass but I want original finish, not Factory refinish or anything with re-work markings. Blued preferably.

I'll be on the look out and would appreciate any leads on one.
I am by no means a wealthy man but I am not hurting either. I'll just blow my yearly budget in one shot

So as long as the Revolver is worth it I intend to get one.

Any ideas on the best places to look?

 

[Doc44]

Take a look at what Lee Jarrett and David Carroll have to offer. That is a good place to start.

Bill

 

[DHENRY]

+ 1 for Doc's advice.
In that price range, you need a trustworthy seller.
Lee and David are just that!
Don

 

[mikepriwer]

Its going to be very difficult to find very-high condition registered magnums.
They were a working gun, after all.

If I were you, I would certainly start with David Carroll and Lee Jarrett.
Talk to them about the condition of what they have for sale, and ask them
about what the price might be for the condition you want, and also ask them
how often they see something like what you want.

If I were you, I would not be put off by a well-refinished gun. They are not
cheap, but it might be a better starting gun for you. It may help to focus
your thinking on whether, or not, you really want to get that deeply involved.
You can always trade up , if you feel strongly about original condition.

The thing about registered magnums is that, unless they went to someone or
someplace special, they are just another gun - expensive, but just another
gun. They don't shoot .38 special any better than a good M&P !

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[bettis1]

szuppo,

You've gotten some good info here about starting into the prewar magnum market. Regarding your desire for condition and barrel length, I'll point out one thing. Most of the guns in the barrel lengths that you are desiring were probably used by lawmen. Consequently, they are usually found in a lesser condition than the longer barreled guns which were often used for targetshooting. That doesn't mean that you can't find the higher condition short barrels, but they are rarer.

I agree with Mike that you shouldn't rule out a well refinished gun, at least as a first entry. Certainly, I would consider one that had been factory refinished, as indicated by the date and marks on the grip frame. Remember these guns, especially the police guns, were working tools and they were often sent back to the factory to keep them in top condition.

I will differ a little with Mike on his comment that "they are just another gun - expensive, but just another
gun. They don't shoot .38 special any better than a good M&P !". Strictly speaking that is correct, however, it is something like saying that a Rolls Royce is just another car. It is...but there is certainly a difference in the enjoyment of the trip when you compare a Rolls/Reg. Mag. to a Chevrolet/M&P

Jump right in! Every one that you take off the market is just one less that the rest of us have to justify buying

Bob

 

[mikepriwer]

Bob

Well - as far as I know, and feel free to correct me if I am wrong, Ed McGivern
set his records with M&P targets, not registered magnums. And those are some
fancy records that were set, and never yet bettered.

A RR may be a better-riding car than a Chevy ( although recently-deceased
Roger Smith may or may not have agreed ), but an M&P was always a better target
gun than a registered magnum. At least that is what all the records seem to
suggest !

Regards, Mike

 

[szuppo]

Didn't want to start any arguments

I thank everyone for their advice and recommendations. I am also under no illusion that finding a shorter barreled RM in 99 plus condition will not be a task in itself but it is one I am willing to take on. As I have been told, get one and I can always trade up. I'm not specifically ruling anything out and I'll judge each based on its own merits.
My line of thinking at the moment is to get one now instead of to keep waiting when they ht the $15k mark.

I have looked at both Lee and David's sites and I believe I have found one that may suit my needs for the moment.

Starting out with a 4.5" won't be a bad start afterall!

 

[Dan M]

Steve,

Make sure you take it out and shoot it, It is an experience all by its self. Kind of like being there when your 1st kid is born. I have shot both I have owned.

Dan

 

[MikeyL]

I'd second the comments about shooting the RMs. I have one from 1938 that has the SWEETEST action of any of my Smiths. It is a 5" gun that has been 'restored' circa 1960 or so; not a safe queen. It is magic. As to Mike Priwer's comments about M&Ps being the target gun of choice for McGivern and others, you have to remember that the K frames have smaller (and lighter) cylinders, and as such can be moved a bit quicker. It all adds up, eh?

MikeyL
SWCA #2010

 

[TDandy]

Semper Fi, szuppo........

Call me if you want to talk to me about my 8-3/4" RM, factory finish with matching box and magna grips, King reflector sights and lanyard ring, it's all origonal and the real deal. David knows about my gun and talked to Roy about it. It's a beauty. Reg # 658x13. 661-213-6718.

 

[szuppo]

Originally posted by TDandy:
Semper Fi, szuppo........

Call me if you want to talk to me about my 8-3/4" RM, factory finish with matching box and magna grips, King reflector sights and lanyard ring, it's all origonal and the real deal. David knows about my gun and talked to Roy about it. It's a beauty. Reg # 658x13. 661-213-6718.

Would it be possible for you to please post some photos? I really am looking for a shorter barrel length but will keep an open mind.

Best Regards,
Steve

 

[mikepriwer]

As to Mike Priwer's comments about M&Ps being the target gun of choice for McGivern and others, you have to remember that the K frames have smaller (and lighter) cylinders, and as such can be moved a bit quicker. It all adds up, eh?

MikeyL

Of course K-frames are smaller and lighter than N-frames. That's the defining difference. But - the
point I was trying to make is that, in effect, they are better shooters for target work. If that were
not the case, then we would see a lot of records set with registered magnums.

Personally, I thing the important aspect of registered magnums is the fact that they were custom-
ordered guns. This fact alone resulted in a wealth of unique guns for collectors. While my
principal collecting is important target guns, I do own several registered magnums, just for the
unique barrel length feature.

Beyond the uniqueness of being custom built, which also included the trigger pull, I do not think
that the action is any better, or smoother, than any other production gun. If someone has a registered
magnum that has superior action, I would suggest that someone outside the factory worked on it.
All those action parts were not made any different than the action parts of the rest of factory
production - as far as I know.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[rburg]

I disagree, Mike. When you ordered a late 1930s M&P, you got the gun as they put them together. When you ordered a RM, you were even allowed to specify the ammo and range you wanted it sighted it to shoot, and the all important single and double action pull weights. That indicates to me that they received enough extra attention to say they were factory worked.

Back to the thread. I would suggest to the OP that he give the gun he's seeking a lot more thought. Yes, David Carroll has a web site someplace that lists the guns he's got right now. But he'll also be getting more as time goes on.

If you have any intention of shooting the gun or even cycling the action, leave the top grade guns alone. Its pretty foolish to spend thousands of dollars for a few extra percentage points of condition, only to burn that quality needlessly. If you want a museum quality firearm, buy it as your second or third gun and put it back, untouched.

The smartest approach to buying RMs is to buy one that has seen some use at a low price. Shoot it, love it, and then make up your mind if you want to get in deeper.

 

[handejector]

Thanks everyone for the plugs.
Steve,
I do have a few guns that might be of interest which are NOT on my list. If you care to drop me an email, we can get together on the phone.