Reliable 40 S&W Load

I would try loading them a little shorter and see how that works, if you drop it in the case gage it should fall right out also, no need to nudge a little. If you do go shorter just make sure of your charge weight. As for the grip I also use the thumbs forward method but I don't put my left thumb on the slide as this may cause a little drag, I keep it on the frame, not sure if this is correct or not just how I do it.
 
Your M&P should be fine with good handloads, but of course S&W is not going to encourage that. :D The fact that your Kahr functions with your loads should say you are doing something right.

Have you ever taken a round from your gun that was loaded DURING NORMAL CYCLING and carefully inspected the nose of the bullet? When I used to load Berry plated bullets, I was flabbergasted to see the damage done to the nose of the bullet during cycling. I asked S&W about this and they did not seem concerned. They said the damage was due to the softness of the plated bullet and that their guns were not intended to be used with other than factory, jacketed ammo. I would check this and not assume that your gun is "100%." If you notice substantial damage to the nose of the bullet caused by normal operation of the pistol, I would not be too happy about that. By the way, how many magazines have you tried? :)

As for the maximum ammunition gauge, it would be nice if your round "fell" from the gauge, but as long as you can drop it in and it goes to the bottom on its own authority, I would not worry about it having to have a little encouragement to come out. I would not want to have to push it into the gauge.

If you are concerned about your grip and/or limp wristing, I would encourage you to spend $10 and get a Hogue Handall or similar Pachmayr gizmo. Install it on your M&P (being careful to keep it clear of your magazine release) and see if that helps. The M&P grip is a little slick, in my opinion, and getting a firmer hold on the pistol might make quite a difference. It is a cheap experiment. ;)
 
I load the Lee 175gr TC bullets over 8.0gr of AA#7. I haven't had any trouble with my SW40VE. I use the Lee bulge buster before loading the brass. I seat and crimp in two steps, and check for fit with the first and every twentieth round. If the rounds fit the chamber or gauge, I'd either tune the magazine or find some better feeding bullets.

To be honest I tune all my magazines for reliable feeding.
 
The round appear to be hanging up on the ramp(will pay closer attention next time I am at the range) ., . . . . Also when I drop the magazine the round will then chamber. On a lighter side I am getting real quick dropping and reinserting mags.


Any consideration for the question of "Is it the gun, or the ammo?"


How about polishing the ramp??? VERY FINE abrasive - crocuscloth wrapped around a wooden dowel - - polish in a longitudinal movement, just the same direction a cartridge would be moving when it is being chambered. Go slow and easy, just enough to polish it - not remove a lot of metal. Then, very lightly, polish the mouth of the chamber. Just to sort of break the edge, to deburr. Again, longitudinal strokes.

Don't even THINK about a Dremel !

My next thought would be about the profile of the bullet. Where the truncation meets the ogive, is there a radius of any significant amount? The sharper this intersection is (the less rounding), the higher the likelihood of dragging on the ramp.

Flash
 
I load the Lee 175gr TC bullets over 8.0gr of AA#7. I haven't had any trouble with my SW40VE. I use the Lee bulge buster before loading the brass. I seat and crimp in two steps, and check for fit with the first and every twentieth round. If the rounds fit the chamber or gauge, I'd either tune the magazine or find some better feeding bullets.

To be honest I tune all my magazines for reliable feeding.

Thanks I have never heard of tuning a magazine will do some research on it. I have 3 magazines and have numbered them to see if it was just one mag but have not found one mag is worse than the other
 
How about polishing the ramp??? VERY FINE abrasive - crocuscloth wrapped around a wooden dowel - - polish in a longitudinal movement, just the same direction a cartridge would be moving when it is being chambered. Go slow and easy, just enough to polish it - not remove a lot of metal. Then, very lightly, polish the mouth of the chamber. Just to sort of break the edge, to deburr. Again, longitudinal strokes.

Don't even THINK about a Dremel !

My next thought would be about the profile of the bullet. Where the truncation meets the ogive, is there a radius of any significant amount? The sharper this intersection is (the less rounding), the higher the likelihood of dragging on the ramp.

Flash

Thanks I just finished doing that as you suggested I did find a small indentation on the edge of the feed ramp were it looks like it is almost worn? I am eager to get to the range and give it a try
 
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