reload 9mm?

I'm set up to reload 9mm, with a progressive press, good for up to 400 rounds per hour (more money than time at my age). However I prefer to devote my time and resources to load .357M, .44M, and (possibly) 10mm, which command premium prices. I can save money by using hard cast bullets (purchased). Although they work well in revolvers, .45 ACP and .40 SW, the tapered 9x19 cases tend to shave lead and jam in the chamber. I can probably fine-tune the resizing dies to eliminate the problem, which includes bulged cases with jacketed bullets too.

FWIW, I seat and crimp in separate stages, for better precision and less spoilage.
 
With few exceptions, factory ammunition is garbage. They put anemic amounts of dirty powder under poorly made bullets.

I stocked up on enough quality 9mm and 45 components years ago, when things were plentiful and inexpensive.

I can keep handloading for years to come.
 
Seating and crimping in separate stages should eliminate the lead shaving and case bulging . I load on a single stage ...
the only thing I can suggest would be to fine tune the dies and operations .
Loading 9mm Luger with cast bullets gave me a Lot of trouble untill I got all the adjustments and bullet size worked out ...
That dang round made me say curse words ... I don't like it because it is so picky ... it's a Little Stinker !

Good Luck and Load Safe,
Gary
 
I have been reloading since the 70s. As time goes on, and my stockpile of inexpensive supplies dwindles, I have been rethinking the economics of it all. As far as 9mm foes, I don’t pick up cases any more, and may quit reloading it altogether if component prices continue into the stratosphere.

When I started reloading, primers were $7.00/1000, and powder was $5.00 or $6.00 a pound. It made sense then, not so much now.
 
I have been reloading since the 70s. As time goes on, and my stockpile of inexpensive supplies dwindles, I have been rethinking the economics of it all. As far as 9mm foes, I don’t pick up cases any more, and may quit reloading it altogether if component prices continue into the stratosphere.

When I started reloading, primers were $7.00/1000, and powder was $5.00 or $6.00 a pound. It made sense then, not so much now.
We old farts always get caught up in thinking about prices way back when. Back in 1975 a loaf of bread was around 39 cents!:ROFLMAO: You'll pay 10X that today!
 
I have been reloading since the 70s. As time goes on, and my stockpile of inexpensive supplies dwindles, I have been rethinking the economics of it all. As far as 9mm foes, I don’t pick up cases any more, and may quit reloading it altogether if component prices continue into the stratosphere.

When I started reloading, primers were $7.00/1000, and powder was $5.00 or $6.00 a pound. It made sense then, not so much now.
Same here.
Have multiple 5 gal pails of 9, 45, and 5.56 (fully processed) brass, and everything needed to load them.
Can still save a little money loading 45, if I value my time at nothing.
But now, time remaining is my most valuable possession. (Always was; just wasn't smart enough to realize it).
So, now have cases of factory ammo in all those calibers on the shelves. Someone else gets to pick up the brass.
But lately, it's common to see a few hundred 9mm cases left at the range, so others must feel the same.
Will keep loading precision rifle and revolver cartridges (which are shot more in lever guns these days), but that's about it.
Also have multiple cavity H&G bullet molds, heated Star sizer, etc. Cast the last bullet about 8 presidents ago.
Somebody is going to get a great deal one of these years. They'll need a trailer.
 
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I have been reloading since the 70s. As time goes on, and my stockpile of inexpensive supplies dwindles, I have been rethinking the economics of it all. As far as 9mm foes, I don’t pick up cases any more, and may quit reloading it altogether if component prices continue into the stratosphere.

When I started reloading, primers were $7.00/1000, and powder was $5.00 or $6.00 a pound. It made sense then, not so much now.
There are a couple of police officers that shoot at my club's indoor range. They leave all their brass behind. Right now I have several thousand once fired quality cases, so I don't pick them up any more either.

I just looked up my 1973 Gun Digest and 9mm ammo was selling for 12 cents each list price. Back then reloading saved a ton of money. But now, at current component prices, I'm still loading for 12 cents. Of course, that's with free bullets that I cast myself.

I'm quite sure that I will continuing reloading every caliber I shoot until the day comes that I stop shooting. I don't make misfires or squibs, and I can't say that about some of the junk the manufacturer's sell.
 
I've shot factory 9mm for decades. My time is worth something, and chasing after brass in the grass is not something I want to do. I buy ammo in bulk, I've shot it all, steel /brass. I find a brand I like (I'm partial to Sellier and Bellot) and buy a few cases and shoot,
I would rather shoot then screw around reloading pistol ammo.
If a pistol won't shoot Steel, then it's not a pistol I'm interested in. current price, steel is not much cheaper so I buy brass, then I can shoot indoors in the winter when it's too cold to hit the outdoor range.

And factory ammo is wayyy more reliable. Most guys I see struggle with malfunctions... are with there reloads.

And most handgun shooters are no where near as good as they thing they are. I see it every time I hit the indoor range. there 7 yd target looks like a shot gun pattern. Truth be told, most shooters suck with handguns. it's the dirty secret out there.
Handgun shooting is a skill that degrades. to maintain a base, you need to shoot, or dry fire on a regular basis. and I would rather dry fire then reload.
 
I've shot factory 9mm for decades. My time is worth something, and chasing after brass in the grass is not something I want to do. I buy ammo in bulk, I've shot it all, steel /brass. I find a brand I like (I'm partial to Sellier and Bellot) and buy a few cases and shoot,
I would rather shoot then screw around reloading pistol ammo.
If a pistol won't shoot Steel, then it's not a pistol I'm interested in. current price, steel is not much cheaper so I buy brass, then I can shoot indoors in the winter when it's too cold to hit the outdoor range.

And factory ammo is wayyy more reliable. Most guys I see struggle with malfunctions... are with there reloads.

And most handgun shooters are no where near as good as they thing they are. I see it every time I hit the indoor range. there 7 yd target looks like a shot gun pattern. Truth be told, most shooters suck with handguns. it's the dirty secret out there.
Handgun shooting is a skill that degrades. to maintain a base, you need to shoot, or dry fire on a regular basis. and I would rather dry fire then reload.
I agree with a lot of this. the level of skill among the unwashed masses is abhorrent.
I reload it, just as I do every other cartridge I use. The reloading bench is one of my altars of Zen.
9 is one of the more nuanced cartridges to load. I found that seating and crimping in separate steps solves most reliability and consistency issues with most cartridges. 9mm is probably the most temperamental of the common drillings in this regard. So much so, I've adopted the use of the Lee FCD for the final stage on this one. You will see some preach about adjusting the seat / crimp "properly" ... whatever that setting is when the goal lies between two mutually exclusive parameters. That's where the trouble starts. Just because the magical setting got one right, does not mean it'll do the same for every round. The FCD absolves almost every sin. It seems to pull the bullet on those nothing will fix, thus removing the round from future sessions.
 
I agree with a lot of this. the level of skill among the unwashed masses is abhorrent.
I reload it, just as I do every other cartridge I use. The reloading bench is one of my altars of Zen.
9 is one of the more nuanced cartridges to load. I found that seating and crimping in separate steps solves most reliability and consistency issues with most cartridges. 9mm is probably the most temperamental of the common drillings in this regard. So much so, I've adopted the use of the Lee FCD for the final stage on this one. You will see some preach about adjusting the seat / crimp "properly" ... whatever that setting is when the goal lies between two mutually exclusive parameters. That's where the trouble starts. Just because the magical setting got one right, does not mean it'll do the same for every round. The FCD absolves almost every sin. It seems to pull the bullet on those nothing will fix, thus removing the round from future sessions.
Totally agree.
Unless your world (and brass) is perfect, there are only positive reasons to use the Lee FCD; no negatives.
Would not load auto pistol cartridges without the FCD, both cannelured bullets and not.
Same for 5.56 and any other rifle cartridges used in Autos, plus the majority of Lever Action loading.
ES and SD are often lower with the FCD; accuracy is the same, or sometimes slightly better.

Will add, in over two decades as Instructor: With the majority of Carry Permit holders, the safest place is behind the target.
I offer free unlimited range instruction, anytime, to any students who want it; very few ever make use of it.
Very optimistically, I would rate possibly 2% as truely competent to carry. I can only go by applicable State Law, so they get certified.
 
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I reload 9mm, but only for the sake of accuracy not for savings. Most commercial 9mm is garbage. Fine for plinking but not very accurate.
 
Some manufacturers of coated lead bullets recommend NOT using the Lee factory crimp die when reloading their bullets.
Thanks.
I don't use coated bullets, but should have mentioned that.
I do use only copper plated or solid bottom copper jacketed for all suppressor use.
 
I only load 9mm to get a decent round for my 929. It needs fed primers to go bang and a .358 bullet for accuracy
 
The old farts also forget to compare today's wages to the bad old days! It is cheaper now for me to shoot and reload than it has ever been.
I was just looking at the cost. I have been reloading since the 1970's (Started with shotguns) but it doesn't ;ook like much of a savings to reload 9mm right now.
Reloading calculator.
I have dies for everything in case of shortages.
 
I am an experienced reloader and firearms instructor. Most (98% ish) of the people that shoot a 9mm Luger at the range would not notice any difference in ammo brand or type.
For the other 2%, the 9x19 can be accurate in a correctly setup gun with well made handloads.
Sizing/Expanding/crimping is where the concerns arrive.
1) I use a Redding sizer almost touching the shellholder, I lightly lube the brass, and sort by headstamp. One of the biggest variants is neck thickness (e.g. Blazer thin / CBC thick)
2) Redding premium expander set to allow plated bullets to enter the case with very light pressure.
3) i have several Lee FCD dies ground by Lee to match ranges in neck thicknesses, this eliminates over-swaging cases with thick necks.
4) Although I have had good luck with Berry's thick plated hollow base bullets, my preferred choice is RMR 124s.
5) I use Win244 for targets loads and BE86 for for power loadings.
I hope this info is helpful to those folks searching for meaningful experience with the 9mm Parabellum.
 
RMR makes good bullets, all in classic styles, with exposed lead bottoms.
Unfortunately, this style allows lead buildup in suppressors, and on compensators.
If your suppressor cannot be disassembled, this can be very difficult to remove.
Cleaning the lead from a Thompson Cutts compensator is also difficult and time consuming.
For that reason, I use only fully plated or solid copper base bullets in those applications.
When the above doesn't apply, I use RMR, or similar -also plenty of cast lead bullets, in revolvers.
I also like BE-86; runs clean, and the bulkiness makes a double charge almost impossible to not notice.
 
RMR makes good bullets, all in classic styles, with exposed lead bottoms.
Unfortunately, this style allows lead buildup in suppressors, and on compensators.
If your suppressor cannot be disassembled, this can be very difficult to remove.
Cleaning the lead from a Thompson Cutts compensator is also difficult and time consuming.
For that reason, I use only fully plated or solid copper base bullets in those applications.
When the above doesn't apply, I use RMR, or similar -also plenty of cast lead bullets, in revolvers.
I also like BE-86; runs clean, and the bulkiness makes a double charge almost impossible to not notice.
A 50/50 mix of vinegar and peroxide performs miracles on lead, if you can meet certain requirements.
Your part must be completely submerged in this solution for no more than 60 seconds.
You may meet this on a barrel by plugging it with wax and completely filling the bore with the solution.
After 60 seconds. Immediately remove from the solution and blast it with WD 40 or similar. No lollygagging with this stuff.
Also, be forewarned that the by product of used solution will contain lead acetate. This is fairly easily taken up by the body. Get rid of it and don't get any on ya.
 
I have a plethora of 9mm 124 gr lead boolits that I am using up because I got them at such a great price.

Though my convertible Blackhawk with the 9mm cylinder shoots the DEWC boolits just fine, it also like the 9mm SWCs too!

38spcl-9nn-Dev.jpg
 
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