Reloading for S&W Model 52

I like to crimp .003", but the variance in case wall thickness of different brands of brass precludes me giving you an overall diameter of the finished round. It could vary a few thousandths. since flush set loads with no crimp will normally feed (factory rounds) O.K., anything less than no crimp will usually give you no problems.
 
Most lead 148 wc bullets have a rounded front edge...
and not a sharp square one, which means that the lead bullet can.......
actually stick out just a very little from the brass case, and still
have a crimp form around it, with no problems.

Good shooting.
 
I believe its generally accepted that Model 52s like brass trimmed to minimum length. I seat bullets flush with just a slight roll crimp.
 
I don't have a 52, so I can't give advice specific to it. I do have a
Clark .38 special. I prefer taper crimp to roll crimp, and just barely enough to remove the case flare so that it feeds reliably. The neck tension should be plenty to hold the bullet, crimp does not help that.

Remember that the purpose of a roll crimp is to keep the bullet from unseating under recoil in a revolver. Bullets won't unseat in a magazine.
 
I would like to check on a few things that we discussed, but never decided on.

1 - has anyone found a documented case length that works best on the Model 52?

2 - I've recently found out that some cases for 38 Special use "thicker" brass, and the thinner brass is better for the lead wadcutter bullets we use. I checked, and yes, some other cases I was given are heavier and thicker. I have no plans to use them - the thinner ones seem to be recommended.

3 - Does it matter if the case has one or two "cannelures" on it?

4 - Given a choice of brands, for cases, are some better than others, and if so, which ones are "best"? Remington and Federal?


I'm away right now, but will be getting back into the reloading in about three weeks.

I'm also wondering about something I've been reading. Several people here say the cases land at their feet, or maybe a foot or two away at most. If cases land much further than that, does this mean I need a softer recoil spring? I've been using the (old) standard spring, but bought the Wolff spring pack that has standard, heavier, and lighter.

(I have two 52's, one that is untouched, and the other that I've been working on for ages, with other people before me. Will be interesting to compare them to each other.)
 
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I trim Starline cases using the Lee cutter and Lee Zip drive. Chamfer with Lee chamfer tool.

Speer 148 grn HBWC. 2.7 grn Bullseye.

Great load. Fantastic pistol.
 
Answered your questions

I would like to check on a few things that we discussed, but never decided on.

1 - has anyone found a documented case length that works best on the Model 52? Minimum case length = 1.145" . I trimmed to 1.138" - 1.140" .

2 - I've recently found out that some cases for 38 Special use "thicker" brass, and the thinner brass is better for the lead wadcutter bullets we use. I checked, and yes, some other cases I was given are heavier and thicker. I have no plans to use them - the thinner ones seem to be recommended. I bought a couple thousand military once fired 38 Spl cases at a gun show in 1982. I trimmed to the above dimension and got at least 15 reloads out of a military case. When I reloaded commercial cases, I could get only 3 reloads before the case split in the middle of the case.

3 - Does it matter if the case has one or two "cannelures" on it? Military brass only had one cannelure. I didn't use commercial brass for my M52.

4 - Given a choice of brands, for cases, are some better than others, and if so, which ones are "best"? Remington and Federal? Both brands split after 3 reloads for me. I was using a Lyman double ended wadcutter mold for my cast bullets.


I'm away right now, but will be getting back into the reloading in about three weeks.

I'm also wondering about something I've been reading. Several people here say the cases land at their feet, or maybe a foot or two away at most. If cases land much further than that, does this mean I need a softer recoil spring? I've been using the (old) standard spring, but bought the Wolff spring pack that has standard, heavier, and lighter.

(I have two 52's, one that is untouched, and the other that I've been working on for ages, with other people before me. Will be interesting to compare them to each other.)
Use factory weight springs to protect the gun. Use a light load that ejects 18" to 24" to maximum case life. Adjust your powder charge 0.1 grain at a time to get best accuracy. You don't want the empty case to bounce off your shooting hand when the gun cycles, and there is no need to have the case land 6 feet from your shooting position -- your load is too hot for a M52.
 
Thanks for the detailed answer.

My target for trimming cases: 1.139" +/- 0.001
(which matches what you used)


Splitting cases - haven't had any, after many reloads.


Powder amount - 2.7 grains Bullseye as suggested in Bullseye forum and confirmed by Terry Labbe at Magnus bullets. Sometimes cases land at my feet. Sometimes they're at least six feet away from me. Is it possible that the roads that had 2.8 grains were "too hot" as you suggested, and I should aim for 2.6 grains, so the maximum never exceeds 2.7 ? My press is only accurate +/- 0.1 grains. I've been told that is because I'm using Bullseye powder, but I haven't found an alternate powder - yet.


My first gun has the original factory spring. My second gun may or may not - need to measure. I bought the Wolff spring kit for Model 52, one "stock", one heavier, and one lighter. From what you're saying, I should put in their stock spring, so I have a known starting point.

(I did buy a spring tester kit - will use that when I get home.)
 
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