Reloading next steps

[Ziggy2525]

I started reloading a few months ago. I’m reloading 9mm and .38 Special using plated round nose bullets. I’m doing it manually using a Lee Hand Press, beam scale to measure each powder charge, and a caliper to check the OAL for each round.

It’s working OK, but very slow. I’d like to be able to reload 150 rounds or so in an evening. I can’t come anywhere close to that with my manual set up.

Equipment wise, I’m looking for advise on what would make sense as a next step that would get me to 75 to 100 rounds an hour (if that’s doable).

Thanks.

 

[arjay]

A single stage press,a hand priming tool and a powder thrower will get you close.A turret press would be a bit faster than that.

 

[Bayou52]

Well, to speed things up, you could change equipment or you could change your procedures.

I also use a single stage press (RCBS RC) but over the years have found that breaking the loading process down into stages is more efficient. For example, I'll start with 200 pistol brasses. To process in stages, I'll clean all of the brass first. Thereafter, all of the brass gets sized. Then, all of the brass gets flared and all of it gets primed. Finally, all of it gets charged and then crimped appropriately.

These stages often do not occur all in one session, but may get spread out in several sessions in as many days.

Just an idea, anyway...seems to work well for me...

Bayou52

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Ziggy: I've been reloading since 1972, started with Lee Loaders and a mallet on the kitchen table. Nothing wrong with any of that, or what you are doing, but it is very slow.

I have never owned a progressive press or automated equipment. I have two single-stage presses, both of which I purchased used. My powder scale came to me "as new in the box" from the original purchaser, who took a significant hit on the value. My powder measure was a close-out sale at a local gun shop, about half-price. My case trimmer was picked up at a gun show with a dozen different pilots for various calibers, all as new for a $20 bill. 47 years down the line I have everything I need for just about any reloading task, and the only thing I have to worry about is a new set of dies for any caliber I choose to add.

My point is this: Look around, check eBay and other sources. You can set yourself up with very good equipment without tapping your kids' college fund.

I also process everything in large batches. Most handgun ammo is reloaded in batches of 500-1000, with resizing done one evening, priming and mouth flaring done another evening, priming done another evening, charging and seating bullets done another evening. Over the course of a week I can produce enough to keep me happy for a long time.

Plenty of options, just some decisions to make on how you spend your disposable cash. Nothing wrong with a good used press, or other basics. I do draw the line with reloading dies, and buy only new dies that no one has had the chance to (blank) up. No need to get in a hurry, either; just fill your needs a bit at a time, you will never miss the few bucks you spend on good equipment that someone else paid retail for, but you can buy for nickels or dimes on the dollar.

 

[Andy Lowry]

A turret press would definitely be faster. A Lee Classic isn't very expensive, and you already have the dies. I think they still come with a powder measure, so that alone would save a lot of time. I was doing close to 150/hour with mine before I finally stepped up to a progressive.

 

[ontargetagain]

I have a Lee single stage press. The inexpensive basic Lee powder drop. A Lee hand primer tool and a set of carbide Lee or Lyman dies for my calibers.
Once you get in a rhythm and have confidence in your powder drop where perhaps you don't feel the need to check each powder drop you can do a fine job to load up a few hundred in an evening.
I hand prime all cases first. Then its pretty straight foward to flare, drop powder, seat bullet and crimp. It isn't difficult for me to do what you are asking to get done in an hour or so. A couple of case holding trays is helpful for each caliber.
If any questions about what I have suggested exist just PM me for a better explanation or for more of a confidence vote that 'you too can do it'
Karl

 

[k22fan]

My guess is Ziggy2525 used "hand press" literally meaning his is not bench mounted so I'm going to presume he is on a minimal budget.

With practice hand held powder scoops are just as accurate as a powder measure and if not as fast as a measure they are a whale of a lot faster than weighing every charge. Lee sells a box of plastic scoops with a chart that gives what weight of different powders they throw. It's fine and dandy but I make my own for free. Excepting old Belding and Mull measures scoops are more consistent than measures throwing some large flake powders like Red Dot and long stick rifle powders. I twist stiff wire around a case's extractor groove, twist it tight for twice the length of handle I want, then fold it back on itself. The case is filed down until it throws the charge I want. Of course I practice weighing each charge.

Ziggy did not write how he is priming but if he does not already have a Lee hand held primmer one would help. They used to be about $15. Their parts wore out but Lee mails replacements for free. RCBS has a similar hand primer for a higher price. One will always be handy matter how advanced your equipment gets.

Used single stage presses turn up in gun shops and gun shows for $25 to $50. Lee's turret press is faster. The next step up in speed and cost is a progressive press. Most of us older reloaders used single stage presses for decades before Dillion made progressives presses inexpensive enough for the masses. Many reloaders are still content with one.

THE main way to keep reloading costs low is to cast your own bullets. An old Colman white gas camping stove makes a good heat source that most of us already have. Living as a bachelor I used gas and electric kitchen ranges. Some wives object to that. I wonder why? You need a flat bottom cast iron pot from a garage sale, a mold and a made for the purpose scoop from a reloading tool manufacturer. Old cup cake pans and the like cast good ingots. A bullet sizer/lubricator press and lead thermometer are higher priority than a bottom pour pot.

I started reloading 9 mm cartridges for my first centerfire, a Model 39-2, with a Lee Loader kit in 1973. They required a mallet to do just about everything. The hand held press I'm presuming you use is a big step up from that. Have fun and read, read, read.

 

[Ziggy2525]

Thanks all for the answers. I like the idea several have suggested to buy a used press. I'll check around.

@k22fan - you're right, the press I have is not a bench mounted press. It's the Lee press that's totally hand held. It came with the Lee hand primer.

For everyone, if you have a second, I have a follow up question.

When you're doing batches, how often are you checking the OAL and powder load when you are doing doing your batches to verify the OAL and powder drop are correct?

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I own a "Lee Hand Press" also and slow is the primary. I have loaded on it enough to be confident it will do everything I need, then I put it in a kit for loading in the "field" (actually in the camper). I have other slow equipment also, like a turret and a single stage press. Then again I have a 1984 purchased Dillon 450, upgraded to a 550b.

Having used all those systems, my recommendation would be to buy used (or new if necessary) a RCBS Rock Chucker press later models are numbered RC 2, RC3, & ect. These are large and strong! and can be expensive, but will last all your life and through your grandkids! They have a feature of a removable bushing allowing much bigger than normal dies (And most likely you'll never use it for that), but it also allows the use of an adapter for the Hornady Lock-N-Load system of die bushings. These allow you to change back and forth like a turret press only with even more choices! I find this is the system I use somewhat more that my turret press! Hornady makes a single stage L-N-L press, but I have never seen one used! and it won't allow a few other fun things. (like loading 20 and 12 gauge shells, in paper, plastic or all brass!) The adapter kit comes with the adapter a 3 bushings, and bushings are sold in 3's and 10's (I have about 40) Cartridges I load frequently I leave the bushings on, but I keep a loose set for the odd round I "need". Most die Boxes allow storage with the bushings mounted, so once the are adjusted, they are done basically forever.

Since I have a progressive, If I'm doing a batch larger than 350, it is quicker to do them on the Dillon, but it won't go to the range or on a trip with me.

One of the most important pieces of equipment you can own is a good powder drop! For a one size fits all, I recommend the Lyman 55. You can find them used all over the country and they are accurate with ball, flake, and extruded powder! It can travel too. You will still need your scale to set the drop. But almost every brand has a numbered scale so you can record the settings, for switching loads or even powders and the back.

Have fun loading, have fun shooting, repeat!

Ivan

 

[arjay]

Thanks all for the answers. I like the idea several have suggested to buy a used press. I'll check around.

@k22fan - you're right, the press I have is not a bench mounted press. It's the Lee press that's totally hand held. It came with the Lee hand primer.

For everyone, if you have a second, I have a follow up question.

When you're doing batches, how often are you checking the OAL and powder load when you are doing doing your batches to verify the OAL and powder drop are correct?

I rarely check over all length unless I’ve been readjusting the bullet seating die (I make a dummy round with each bullet type I use)
I’ll usually weigh every 10th-20th charge

 

[fredj338]

Even a cheap single stage press, scale & powder measure will be miles ahead of any hand tool. Be organized, you can easily do 60rds per hour on a ss press. A turret is faster still. The Lee Classic Turret is pretty economical & can turn out 150rds right at an hour.
Set your dies up properly, OAL is a set & forget thing, but it is diff for each new bullet type. Powder charges from a thrower are pretty uniform. I check mine when I setup & it shouldn't change but if you are nervous, check ever 10.

 

[Nevada Ed]

I have been using a old RCBS single press, that has a primer arm, but...
I like the Lee hand primer better.

Powder is done by scale/tricker or a old Pacific tube drop.
If fast powders I check every 10th load but if bulky powder at
50% volume, I will check the cases in my loading try with a GOOD
lighting system to see into the cases for a correct loading of powder.

Bullets are placed at the correct OAL then checked for any odd ball bullets, before going to the crimping station.

When done shooting, my brass is cleaned...........
then sized, de-primed then belled and bagged for further use.
Nothing worse than opening a box of cases and finding that they have spent primers.
I place a full factory box, upside down, so I know the brass inside is ready to load.

Good loading.

 

[kwh]

Consider: Purchase inexpensive Lee single "C"stage press.
Batch of 100 -200 cases. Coated lead bullets are cleaner to work with (Missouri bullets).
1) Size and deprime all at once.
2) RCBS or equivalent hand primer. Prime all at once.
3) Lee through the die flare & charge case with powder. Trail Boss powder (38 Spl.) leaves a lot of room for error. Use powder scoop, or faster, use Lee auto Disc. Then >
4) Use the hand press to immediately seat each bullet and crimp.
Nothing different than all the above good advice, but ability to batch by adding powder and seat bullet with 2 presses almost makes it into an inexpensive turret press.

 

[SMSgt]

I also use a Lee hand press for my handgun reloading . . . for case "prep." I literally sit in my recliner listening to the TV while I resize and flare my cases. Can't say how long it takes exactly because I take my time to visually inspect the cases as I go. Little nicks on the case mouth get chamfered, splits get tossed, etc. I'll do 50-100 in a session and put them away when done.

Another night I'll prime all those cases with my RCBS hand primer, again while relaxing in my recliner.

When I'm ready to load powder and bullets, I'll set my S/S press up on the kitchen counter (limited space here) and my powder dropper and scales. Then I load them all up.

Reloading gives me something to do, and I've got the time, being retired. My "process" may be a little slow, but I don't need mass quantities, and my results are 100% reliable. It's another hobby to me, not a task to be endured.

 

[k22fan]

At one time I had 3 hand held presses. All three were thrown in free with some thing else from the same manufacturer. They were Lee and Lyman. Lee included one free with purchase of a hardbound reloading manual. I forget what other two items I bought to get the others free. One brand had holes for mounting on a bench which I never did. My job required waiting in a car. That's where I used them so if they were faster or slower than the bench mounted press at home was moot. I never got overtime for reloading at home. The draw backs to my hand held presses were they flexed to much and lacked leverage for full length sizing bottle neck rifle cases. I took coffee cans full of 9 mm and other pistol brass with me and did one operation on all of them before changing dies. I got my money's worth out of my hand held presses.

 

[ontargetagain]

Thanks all for the answers. I like the idea several have suggested to buy a used press. I'll check around.

@k22fan - you're right, the press I have is not a bench mounted press. It's the Lee press that's totally hand held. It came with the Lee hand primer.

For everyone, if you have a second, I have a follow up question.

When you're doing batches, how often are you checking the OAL and powder load when you are doing doing your batches to verify the OAL and powder drop are correct?

Checking OAL is not a concern normally as much a concern with straight wall revolver cartridges. Keep an eye on your dies so as they don't loosen once set up. OAL can be touchy if you are loading toward max OAL for pistol as it may cause chambering issues. There are 'cartridge checkers' to use for many calibers where you simply drop in the loaded round to check it not only for OAL but also for bulge or proper taper crimp like for your 9mm rounds.

With powder I rarely load at max for anything so I have some room for a little +up or down and still be in the recommended range. You will find some powders just don't meter well and have a big swing in drops, I measure each of those. Bullseye, HP38, BE86, Sport Pistol, TiteGroup all have been very consistent for me in my 'cheapie' Lee powder drop.

In a tray of 50 cases with powder, I will take a few moments and do a visual check for any one of them that looks a bit off, I just check the charge on my medical digital scale. This is one area I spent more money, I wanted a quick and easy digital scale to check my loads, I found the balance beam scales too time consuming so I didn't use them as often as I probably should have.

I hope that helps, by the way if you are interested in the Lee reloading items check their website as the have special pricing on items, I picked up my press from them at a bargain and they are always more than helpful if you call with needs or concerns.
Keep at it!
Karl

 

[Hasbeen1945]

I started reloading in the 1960’s. The best advise I could give you is this. Buy once and cry once. Research your equipment and buy the best. That way you won't be continuously upgrading. It will be cheaper in the long run. Ask me how I know...

 

[Hasbeen1945]

Now to equipment.
I have a Forster co-ax press. I used a Rock Chucker for years.
It was a hard decision between the Forster and a Redding turret.
Because I load pistol and rifle I chose the Forster. I believe the quick die change, no shell holder and quality of ammo the Forster wins.
For dies I like Redding and Forster.
I have a Charge Master for rifles.
I use a Harrell’s pistol measure. IMHO nothing is better.
I use a Lee Carbide crimp die for all pistol calibers I load.
At this time I have both styles of RCBS priming tools.
I have a Thumbler corn cob case cleaner and a RCBS rotary cleaner.
I also use a RCBS case mate to prepare brass.
Good luck on your equipment selection.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Thanks all for the answers. I like the idea several have suggested to buy a used press. I'll check around.

@k22fan - you're right, the press I have is not a bench mounted press. It's the Lee press that's totally hand held. It came with the Lee hand primer.

For everyone, if you have a second, I have a follow up question.

When you're doing batches, how often are you checking the OAL and powder load when you are doing doing your batches to verify the OAL and powder drop are correct?

For OAL I use a dummy cartridge (empty sized case with bullet seated and crimped to desired length; if used in a semi-auto this can be used to test chambering in the pistol) to set up my dies. As long as no changes are made there is no variation in results. When changing to a new bullet type it is easy to make up a dummy cartridge in a few minutes. Since most of my loading utilizes my own cast bullets I seldom have to make any changes.

My Lachmiller powder measure has proven itself accurate (within 0.1 grain) with every flake and ball powder I have used. Since I regularly load no more than 95% of max charges that is plenty accurate for safety. When setting up the powder measure I weigh each drop until I get 5 straight at the target weight. When charging cases I never let the hopper get below half-full to keep it operating consistently, and I check-weigh before and after each 50-round loading block. I have 10 loading blocks so I can do 500 rounds of pistol ammo at a time, then go directly to bullet seating. Charging 500 cases takes only 30 minutes or so.

Loading rifle ammo to anything near full power loads I use the powder measure to drop a charge about 1.0 grain below desired weight, then trickle powder into the scale pan to bring the charge to final weight. I usually load rifle ammo in 100-round batches, and this method takes about 30 minutes or so to do the powder charging.

 

[Marshal Kane]

For the 9mm, once you've adjusted your seater die to the desired OAL, there's no reason to check OAL on each cartridge again assuming you're using the same bullets. Checking intermittently will do. The OAL won't change.
For the .38 Special, suggest you check case lengths and trim all cases to specs for uniform crimps. In time, revolver cases tend to grow with repeated firing. Most revolver bullets have a crimp groove so a good roll crimp is all that's needed. Check a factory round if in doubt as to what a good crimp looks like. No need to check COAL if your cases are in spec.
Finally, since you mentioned weighing each powder charge, suggest you purchase a digital powder scale which is infinitely faster than using a balanced beam scale. Keep the balanced beam scale as a backup. I often weigh each powder charge when reloading since I shoot in competitions and want the most consistent ammunition possible. A digital powder scale and a powder measure makes a good team. Weighing each charge gives you the most consistent powder charges because powder in the powder measure isn't always consistent in density throughout the reservoir. I'm not saying you should always weight each charge, as some ammunition doesn't require it e.g. plinking ammunition where a few tenths of a grain +/- off doesn't make any difference. Hope this helps.

 

[gwpercle]

Your powder dispensing is slowing you down , get a powder measure or make a little scoop to dip charges.

No need to measure every round. Once die is set, seating depth will remain constant.

I reload with a Lee Hand Press and use scoops to dip powder charges.
Once you get your dipping technique down , dipped charges are very accurate and fast . I can do 200 rounds after dinner with ease.
Gary

 

[fredj338]

Consider: Purchase inexpensive Lee single "C"stage press.
Batch of 100 -200 cases. Coated lead bullets are cleaner to work with (Missouri bullets).
1) Size and deprime all at once.
2) RCBS or equivalent hand primer. Prime all at once.
3) Lee through the die flare & charge case with powder. Trail Boss powder (38 Spl.) leaves a lot of room for error. Use powder scoop, or faster, use Lee auto Disc. Then >
4) Use the hand press to immediately seat each bullet and crimp.
Nothing different than all the above good advice, but ability to batch by adding powder and seat bullet with 2 presses almost makes it into an inexpensive turret press.

Yet not as efficient & only slightly cheaper with twice the bench space. Just buy the turret. Batch loading on a ss press for 150rds a week is tedious IMO, but then I have been onto a progressive for about the last 30y for my handgun needs.
If you are weighing each charge, regardless of the scale, it's gonna be really slow & not really any more accurate. Most flake & all ball powders will throw in a good measure with boring regular results, 1/10gr or less variation. If you are using stick powders or large flake like 800x, then a powder scale/dispenser would be the way to go for a bunch of charges.

 

[Ziggy2525]

...
Most flake & all ball powders will throw in a good measure with boring regular results, 1/10gr or less variation. If you are using stick powders or large flake like 800x, then a powder scale/dispenser would be the way to go for a bunch of charges.

I’ve been using HP-38 for both my 9mm and .38 Special reloads. They stock it at my local Cabelas. Is that considered an easy powder with boringly regular results (I see that as a good thing) or should I be looking at a different, easier to measure/use powder?

 

[max503]

Your powder dispensing is slowing you down , get a powder measure or make a little scoop to dip charges.

No need to measure every round. Once die is set, seating depth will remain constant.

I reload with a Lee Hand Press and use scoops to dip powder charges.
Once you get your dipping technique down , dipped charges are very accurate and fast . I can do 200 rounds after dinner with ease.
Gary

I've got a whole bench dedicated to reloading stuff, including a Dillion Progressive press, but those old Lee Dippers still get a lot of use. Couldn't live without them.

 

[Bosquebass]

I’ve been using HP-38 for both my 9mm and .38 Special reloads. They stock it at my local Cabelas. Is that considered an easy powder with boringly regular results (I see that as a good thing) or should I be looking at a different, easier to measure/use powder?

If you are going to have only one powder HP-38 is a good one to have. It meters well for me using a Lee Auto Drum and it's been around forever so there is plenty of load data available for it. It's an old stand-by universal type handgun powder for sure.

 

[Ziggy2525]

Your powder dispensing is slowing you down , get a powder measure or make a little scoop to dip charges.
...

I have Lee .3cc and .5cc scoops. The .3cc is too small and the .5cc is too big. That's why I had been measuring each charge. I have multiples of the .5cc that came with the dies. I'll try grinding down a couple of the .5cc dippers to get the weight of HP-38 I'm looking for. (4.4 gr for 9mm and 3.7 gr for .38 Special).

 

[RMFnLA]

Lee turret press with a shell holder for each die set.

Spring for carbide dies and you will never look back.

 

[fredj338]

I’ve been using HP-38 for both my 9mm and .38 Special reloads. They stock it at my local Cabelas. Is that considered an easy powder with boringly regular results (I see that as a good thing) or should I be looking at a different, easier to measure/use powder?

HP-38/W231 are spherical powders & throw very consistent in most powder measures. One can scoop as well, but it is far more technique driven for that 1/10gr accuracy. Plus as you noticed, can be very limiting. An adjustable powder measure is just about the best way, imo, to reload with a ss press. You can set the measure with the scale & then throw 50 charges in about 3-4min.

 

[eb07]

My setup: Single stage to deprime and size, hand prime, then lee turret with pour through powder dies. I can get 100 an hour easy

Or take a big step go blue and sit back and crank the handle

 

[max503]

I have Lee .3cc and .5cc scoops. The .3cc is too small and the .5cc is too big. That's why I had been measuring each charge. I have multiples of the .5cc that came with the dies. I'll try grinding down a couple of the .5cc dippers to get the weight of HP-38 I'm looking for. (4.4 gr for 9mm and 3.7 gr for .38 Special).

I adjust them by mashing aluminum foil into the bottom of the cavity with a nail head. If the foil were to come loose it would only make the charge lighter. But it never has.
You start with a loose ball of foil then dip, weigh, and compress the foil with the inverted nail until you come up with a customized dipper.