Reloading the 357

A friend asked me to load 500 rounds of .44-40 for him several years ago. He supplied the components, and TiteGroup is what he brought me. I found it didn't meter particularly well, but I got his ammo loaded. I doubt he ever shot any of it. There was a good bit of Titegroup left over and he told me to keep it for my labor. I still have it...
Just a suggestion on reloading for others.

There could be a liability issue in which you could be exposing yourself! Should a double load get dropped and the gun blows up, it would not be fun for all involved or close to the area.

We assume the liability for our shooting reloads that we create. I am not afraid and have done such when friends ask about them giving me brass to reload, to say NO I CANNOT DUE TO LIABILITY ISSUES.

Things can happen when you least expect it. My brother had his son-in-law with a new Sig 45 ACP, in which he used loads that he created for his 1911. None the least and he does not know what happened, but assumed a double charge was dropped from his Dillon 550B in a round and a $800 gun was destroyed or badly damaged to be non functional. No one was hurt except (thankfully) for nerves and scare the Willy's out of each of them. Brother purchased a new one for replacing the pistol.

However, just a thought and suggest to place forward for your digestion!

Best to you!
 
Just a suggestion on reloading for others.

There could be a liability issue in which you could be exposing yourself! Should a double load get dropped and the gun blows up, it would not be fun for all involved or close to the area.

We assume the liability for our shooting reloads that we create. I am not afraid and have done such when friends ask about them giving me brass to reload, to say NO I CANNOT DUE TO LIABILITY ISSUES.

Things can happen when you least expect it. My brother had his son-in-law with a new Sig 45 ACP, in which he used loads that he created for his 1911. None the least and he does not know what happened, but assumed a double charge was dropped from his Dillon 550B in a round and a $800 gun was destroyed or badly damaged to be non functional. No one was hurt except (thankfully) for nerves and scare the Willy's out of each of them. Brother purchased a new one for replacing the pistol.

However, just a thought and suggest to place forward for your digestion!

Best to you!
Have digested and verified why I don't use a progressive loader. Not enough quality control. I always look into the cases prior to loading the bullet to make sure that all cases have powder and all powder levels are even. 52 years without a squib or double load.
 
I am about to venture into reloading 357 magnum for a model 19 and a model 66. I intend to use Hodgden tight group only due to its ready availability. I have loaded 44 mag 45 ACP, 9 mm and all of the shotgun gauges. I intend to download 158 grain semi wadcutter's. so as not to over stress the K frame and forcing cone. Any thoughts on the tite group in 357? Any preferable, powders, or suggested loads?
Let's talk about one of the most enduring myths in .357 Mag history.

It has long been asserted that forcing cone cracks in K frame .357's are the result of the shorter 125 gr bullet. The working throry was that the shorter bullet allowed gas to get around in front of the bullet and preheat the forcing cone before that shorter bullet got there. To put it simply that whole theory has zero basis in fact or reality.

Why did it become a common belief? Timing and correlation, between revolver, powder, bullet choice, and training.

Revolver
The Model 19 was designed in the mid 1950s and was introduced in 1957 as the ideal law enforcement revolver, balancing strength and weight, at a time when the l58 gr LSWCHP was the bullet of choice, and medium burn rate flake powders were the norm.

Powder
However, around 1960, Olin started reworking WWII surplus canon powder into small arms powder by dissolving it in ethyl acetate containing small quantities of stabilizers and additives. The resultant syrup, combined with water and surfacants, is heated and agitated in a pressurized container until the syrup forms an emulsion of small spherical globules of the desired size. The ethyl acetate is distilled off as pressure is slowly reduced to leave small spheres of nitrocellulose and additives. This is what gives these powders their common names as "ball powders" or "spherical powders".

These spheres can be modified by adding nitroglycerine to increase energy, rolling to a uniform minimum dimension, coating with deterrents to retard ignition, and coating with burn rate inhibitors or graphite to improve flow characteristics during blending.

The resulting individual powder batches are then tested for their burn traits and are then mixed with other lots to produce the desired burn characteristics in the final lot to the customer specifications.

The advantages of ball powders are:
- they are cheap to produce, particularly with surplus powders, although the same process works with newly made nitrocellulose;
- they are fast to produce, taking about 40 hours compared to about 2 weeks for a flake powder; and
- they are much safer to produce as most of the process is done wet.

In 1962 Olin started making 295P, which was was marketed by Hodgdon as H110. (295P as reformulated in 1973 as 296, and it continues to be marketed ever as Win 296 and H110.) This powder was used in the .30 carbine as well as in magnum pistol cartridges like the .357 Magnum.

***Note this was about 5 years after the introduction of the Model 19 / K-frame .357 revolvers.

By the late 1960s it had become very popular with makers of .357 Mag ammunition as ball powder was much cheaper to purchase, and it also gave between 50 fps (3" barrel) and 150 fps (6" barrel) more velocity. In terms of marketing that was a plus, but a side benefit was the much heavier powder charges used also produced about 35 percent more recoil so it felt more like a magnum load. More on this later.

Bullet choice
By the mid to late 1960s, more and more law enforcement agencies started transitioning to jacketed hollow point 125 gr hollow points instead of 158 gr loads. And of course these new loads, designed for 4" and 6" duty revolvers, used ball powders to maximize velocity as opposed to the flake powders used in the older, traditional 158 gr loads.

Law enforcement training practices
When the Model 19 was designed, agencies using .357 Mag normally trained with .38 Special and only carried .357 Magnum for duty use. Some used it for qualification, others qualified with .38 Special.

Unfortunately in the late 1960s and early 1970s, agencies started getting sued for 'under training officers by training and sometimes qualifying with .38 Special and then carrying .357 Magnum. That led to a training and qualifying with .357 Magnum.

So...the Model 19 (and Model 13, Model 10-8, Model 66, etc) went from a split of maybe 5-10% .357 and 90-95% .38 special to 100 percent .357 Magnum.

----

Then forcing cones started cracking...

Perceptions matter, and the only things people saw were the switch to the 125 gr bullet in .357 Magnum loads and the greater use of .357 Magnum loads.

Thus arose the myth that it was the shorter 125 gr bullet that was causing forcing cone cracking.

But it was really the change to ball powders.

Consider a maximum load of a ball powder with a 125 gr JHP bullet. With cannister grade H110/Win 96, you'll see published loads with a max around 20 grains (some sources a grain or so higher but that's not the point). That compares to a max load around 16 grains for a similarly constructed 158 gr bullet.

In other words, the switch to the lighter/shorter bullet increased the powder charge from 16 to 20 grains, a 25 percent increase. That's 25 percent more plasma/gas/partially burned powder flowing through the forcing cone with the same type of powder.

Even more significantly, lets compare the effects of changing the powder.

Let's compare that 20 grain max load of Win 296 with a max load of a medium burn rate (by pistol standards) powder like Unique. A max load of Unique with a 125 gr JHP will be about 8.5 to 9 grains. In other words with Win 296 you'll gain 50 to 75 fps more velocity in a 3" to 4" barrel, but the mass of plasma/gas/unburned powder flowing through the forcing cone is around 225 percent greater.

Another old myth is that pistol powder is completely burned in the case before the bullet ever exits. To be fair that's closest to the truth in cartridges like the black powder era developed .38 Special and it 1/8" longer .357 Magnum derivative, where they both have lots of internal diameter - when they are using a small volume of a faster burning flake powder.

With a very slow burning (by pistol standards) ball powder like H110/Win 296, there is a lot of partially burned and even unburned powder flowing through the forcing cone. Worse, that colloidal ball powder is pretty abrasive.

What happens when you push 225 percent more powder mass, with a much higher percentage of much more abrasive powder through a forcing cone? You get at least 225 percent more erosion in the forcing cone.

Those little V shaped erosion cuts get bigger with round count and they create a stress riser. In the Model 19, the outside of forcing cone is milled away to a flat spot to allow for clearance of the crane. That flat spot is the thin spot of the forcing cone and the area most susceptible to cracking once forcing cone erosion starts to happen.

If you're brain is saying "that's bovine fecal matter", consider why if its the shorter bullet causing the erosion and cracking, why isn't it an issue with much shorter 110 gr .357 Magnum loads? The reason is that those 110 gr loads are not efficient with the slow burning ball powders, so they are not used with 110 gr bullets. Those loads use medium burn rate flake powders. In addition, they are usually low recoil loads, designed for short barrel revolvers, where ball powders are even less efficient, and where low recoil is a feature, one that would be undercut by doubling the powder charge and increasing total recoil by probably 40 percent.

-----

In short, the secret to long Model 19 / .357 K frame life is to just avoid colloidal ball powders. Use whatever bullet you want. You'll lose very little velocity in a 2 1/2" barrel, around 50 fps in a3" barrel, around 75 to 100 fps in 4" barrel and around 150 fps in a 6" barrel, but your forcing cone will see almost no erosion, and thus you won't have issue with cracking, and about 35 percent less recoil which also helps overall revolve life.

If you really need maximum performance, use a ball powder but use a heavy 158 gr bullet to reduce the amount of powder and forcing cone erosion. And limit the use of those colloidal ball powder rounds.
 
Have digested and verified why I don't use a progressive loader. Not enough quality control. I always look into the cases prior to loading the bullet to make sure that all cases have powder and all powder levels are even. 52 years without a squib or double load.

I am tired of hearing this. I think it's just wrong. No method is inherently more safe than another. It's even dangerous to think so. It's called complacency (with a touch of smugness). Safety is up to the operator. Lord knows they blew up lots of guns with double charges before progressive were even a thing for most. Looking in a case is not the only way to ensure charges are correct. But a man needs to know his limitations. If you don't feel safe using one by all means don't, but also don't assume everyone who does so is any less safe.

The only two blown guns I've run into since I got my Dillion 450 (yes that's a "4") were reloaded for on a single stage. Both reloaders had the same "foolproof" method. At this point I've loaded something north of 130,000 rounds on my Dillon in the last 45 years. It has had so many parts replaced there's not much of the original press left. Never had a problem. I'd venture a guess that there are way more rounds loaded on progressives than single stage presses and their safety record may actually be better. All the competition shooters use them and those guys run through an unbelievable amount of ammo.
 
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If your handloading at all you should be skilled and careful with what your doing, I don't use tite group for magnum loads, that is for 2400 and H110, I've loaded and shot about 1500 cast bullets thru .44 mag, .44 special, .38 special. and 357 mag in light loads over the past few months with 3.8 to 5 grain charges, for 800 to 950 fps in various revolvers. I don't use a progressive press, or a turret, I weigh every charge then seat the bullet. Tite group at these velocities has turned out better accuracy in every Caliber and projectile weight than any other powder I've tried. With one exception that being 14 grains of 2400 was slightly more accurate than 5.0 grains of tite group with a 215grain hollow base wadcutter out of my .44 special. (3x the powder that is hard to get for the same result=$) I'm sure there are other powders that could get good results, But I'm not aware of any that I could load 12,000 rds of ammo for 300$. You could make a dangerous load with any powder if your careless.

I don't know of any smokeless powder on the entire market that is as fast and also as dense as Titegroup. If you are not aware, that means using it in almost any revolver round provides you enough physical space to triple or quadruple a maximum published load.

During the Great Shortage a well meaning friend picked me up some Tightgroup...or so he thought. It was TiteWAD. I have yet to use it up. TiteWAD is Titegroup's faster younger brother. I've used in .45 ACP and 9mm, and some other things I won't mention because they aren't listed and I don't want to give anybody ideas. In 9mm Hodgdon shows a starting loads of 2.9gr to Titegroup's 3.6gr. They only have data for 9mm, .38 Super, and .45 ACP.

Scary fast powder. It shoots really well but I can't recommend it.
 
Have digested and verified why I don't use a progressive loader. Not enough quality control. I always look into the cases prior to loading the bullet to make sure that all cases have powder and all powder levels are even. 52 years without a squib or double load.
I would never, ever suggest someone try to learn reloading on a progressive. Too many things to learn about and watch. That said, I spent 35 years loading on a Rock Chucker, then 6 or 7 years on a RCBS 2000 progressive and now 3 years on a Dillon 500C. I too look into every case to see the powder level and I too have never had a squib or double load in all that time. For me it's not whether it's a single stage or a progressive, it's the operator.
 
I would never, ever suggest someone try to learn reloading on a progressive. Too many things to learn about and watch. That said, I spent 35 years loading on a Rock Chucker, then 6 or 7 years on a RCBS 2000 progressive and now 3 years on a Dillon 500C. I too look into every case to see the powder level and I too have never had a squib or double load in all that time. For me it's not whether it's a single stage or a progressive, it's the operator.
I would and have.

As you know, the Dillon 550 is manually indexed and can be:

1) Set up and operated as a single stage press, with an aftermarket shell plate and tool head.

2) It can also be operated in stock form like a single stage press, by just having a single die in the tool head and moving the cases on and off the shell plate at each position to a loading block, like you would on a single stage press, with no rotation of the shell plate.

3) It can also be operated just like a turret press, going through a complete loading cycle with just a single cartridge on the shell plate.

4) Finally, it can be operated as a manually indexed progressive press.


And that's exactly how a brand new hand loader can learn to handload, without having to ever outgrow the press.

I started handloading at age12 in 1977, on an RCBS Junior and eventually went to a Dillon 550B about 20 years ago. Like you I also visually inspect the powder level in each case.
 
I started reloading in 1963 on a used Hollywood Senior press I bought from one of my college professors. That press is still on my loading bench, along with several others. By my count, and some speculation, I've reloaded well over 850,000 rounds of ammunition, in 35 different calibers. My calibers run from .32 H&R Magnum up through .45-120 Sharps. I've never had a double charge, but at about the 750,000 round count, I had my first squib load, which proved to me that it can happen, even with all the proven steps I've developed over the years.

These days I load considerably more .38 Spl. than any other round, since my wife and I both shoot SASS matches, with the round count roughly 8,000 to 10,000 rounds per year. All of those rounds are loaded on a Hornady LnL now, since I've worn out a Rockchucker (RCBS replaced it for free) and a Hornady Projector, which Hornady also rebuilt for free. I do all my priming off press, using either Lyman or RCBS Ram Prime units on a Rockchucker, since I'm especially critical about priming. I insist on all primers being seated .004" below flush, and the Ram Prime allows that consistently. Some will undoubtedly object to priming separately, but it's my shop, so my rules. I cast all our SASS bullets on two Master Casters and run them through one of several Star Sizer/Lubricators.

I've owned two Dillon 550B's, and sold them both. They weren't my cup of tea and I just didn't care for them. Others will disagree, but again it's a personal preference, and I would never presume to tell someone they "must use this press or other press" in their shop over another brand or style. In our SASS matches, I've seen many squib loads, double charges and improperly seated primers from other shooters over the years. The vast majority of those were loaded on the 550B, usually by someone who only took up reloading when they started shooting matches, and probably didn't have a mentor to help them learn the nuances associated with that style of press.

After I had my one and only squib load, which naturally occurred at the World Championships in New Mexico, I added an RCBS Lock Out Die to my LnL. If the powder charge is too light, too heavy, or missing, it stops the press and keeps it from moving until the problem is removed. With the Lock Out Die, you don't have to watch for a rod matching a line, etc. It literally stops the press handle from moving.

My shooting schedule is slowing down now that I'm in my 80's, and I'm the president of a gun club with over 1,100 members, which takes up considerable time. They say when you become a club officer you give up shooting. There's a lot of truth to that, believe me.....

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I started reloading in 1963 on a used Hollywood Senior press I bought from one of my college professors. That press is still on my loading bench, along with several others. By my count, and some speculation, I've reloaded well over 850,000 rounds of ammunition, in 35 different calibers. My calibers run from .32 H&R Magnum up through .45-120 Sharps. I've never had a double charge, but at about the 750,000 round count, I had my first squib load, which proved to me that it can happen, even with all the proven steps I've developed over the years.

These days I load considerably more .38 Spl. than any other round, since my wife and I both shoot SASS matches, with the round count roughly 8,000 to 10,000 rounds per year. All of those rounds are loaded on a Hornady LnL now, since I've worn out a Rockchucker (RCBS replaced it for free) and a Hornady Projector, which Hornady also rebuilt for free. I do all my priming off press, using either Lyman or RCBS Ram Prime units on a Rockchucker, since I'm especially critical about priming. I insist on all primers being seated .004" below flush, and the Ram Prime allows that consistently. Some will undoubtedly object to priming separately, but it's my shop, so my rules. I cast all our SASS bullets on two Master Casters and run them through one of several Star Sizer/Lubricators.

I've owned two Dillon 550B's, and sold them both. They weren't my cup of tea and I just didn't care for them. Others will disagree, but again it's a personal preference, and I would never presume to tell someone they "must use this press or other press" in their shop over another brand or style. In our SASS matches, I've seen many squib loads, double charges and improperly seated primers from other shooters over the years. The vast majority of those were loaded on the 550B, usually by someone who only took up reloading when they started shooting matches, and probably didn't have a mentor to help them learn the nuances associated with that style of press.

After I had my one and only squib load, which naturally occurred at the World Championships in New Mexico, I added an RCBS Lock Out Die to my LnL. If the powder charge is too light, too heavy, or missing, it stops the press and keeps it from moving until the problem is removed. With the Lock Out Die, you don't have to watch for a rod matching a line, etc. It literally stops the press handle from moving.

My shooting schedule is slowing down now that I'm in my 80's, and I'm the president of a gun club with over 1,100 members, which takes up considerable time. They say when you become a club officer you give up shooting. There's a lot of truth to that, believe me.....

Hope this helps.

Fred
I have not loaded anywhere near the volume you do, but a lot more than most people. I started out with a Rock Chucker, now progressed, mostly for the longer throat to a RCBS turret press. During my formative years I used the priming tool on the Rock Chucker but soon decided that there was not enough control over the priming process, and like you started hand priming. I use two RCBS hand primers, one that you have to change the shell holder for the small primers, and an Universal for the large primers. I have had many tell me I'm wasting my time, to which I point out, "It's my time to waste." I like the control over hand priming, don't watch the seating depth all that close other than below the case and have never had a misfire due to primer depth. I also hand measure each powder change individually to an approach to weight for the given charge. Only way I know to keep the powder charge consistent. Another thing that some say I'm wasting my time at. When chrono graphing my loads the pistol rounds are usually within 15 fps of each other, rifle between 20 and 40 fps depending on the cartridge, 308 being the closest and 338 Win Mag the farthest at 40 fps. All in all, I pretty much quit, as much as possible from giving any advice on reloading techniques simply because of the know it all's that always criticize. Not worth my time. If someone asks a direct question, I will give an answer but outside of that try (sometimes not successfully) to keep my mouth shut.
 
I recently "discovered" Titegroup and am very fond of it. It's become my go-to in my .41 Magnum's where a little over 7 grs. gets me a little north of 1100-1150 fps depending on which revolver I'm using, with cast SWC's in the 210-220 gr. range. I've even used it in my .44 Magnum loads.
Over the last week I've chronographed it quite a bit in one of my Model 10's and my Model 64-5 where 4.0 gr. yields right at 900 fps with a cast 158 gr. SWC. I'm about to load a bunch of .38 Special's on my 550 and I'm trying to decide between Titegroup and AL 20/28.
Titegroup is definitely not a powder for magnum loads, but is really nice for mid-range loads.
 
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