Removal of part of triggerguard

Aussie Bruce

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If I have done this correctly I have attached a photo of Model 29 Serial number N7032## in 44 Magnum which has had the rear part of the trigger guard removed. I know that some guns have had the front part of the trigger guard removed to improve access to the trigger but I am unable to fathom what purpose would be served by this case.
Also wondering if the engraving (obviously done when different grips were fitted) is factory?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks is adavance
 

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Weird.

On the stocks, you are correct. The Model 29 came with target stocks that would have covered that area without the engraving.

Someone else will have to tell you if the engraving was done aftermarket.
 
As a gunsmith.....quite literally the only reason I could think of for this is if the guard was cracked or severely bent, It could have been cut out to have a donor piece welded in, but it never happened.

Functionally? doing this would destroy the weapons ability to be drawn quickly, carried in a normal holster, and would be completely pointless.

I am rather perplexed haha
 
So wrong, I cannot conceive of a fix.

Micro welding could do it. Need to find a beat to death donor rig, digitally measure, cut and weld in a new piece, then hand sand until it matches, then re-polish.

however the labor on the repair would be higher than the value of the gun lol Especially if one were to want it to match perfectly.
 
Beautiful gun, but a shame about the TG.
If it were mine, I’d have to fix it.
I can see no purpose for such a modification, except maybe the previous owner was getting rapped by the TG when firing.
There are better ways to deal with that issue.
Just curiious does it look like Bubba did it with a wiz-wheel or hacksaw, or is it more, (GAG) professionally finished.
 
As others have stated, I can't figure out that trigger guard modification.

But considering that modification, if the gun was otherwise right, I would consider it for the right price. Those grips look like they might be real ivory, and if so, would be an easy trade for a proper set of nice factory target grips.

As far as the trigger guard repair (restoration), a donor frame that has experienced and overcharge is one option, as is having a replacement piece made from metal stock.

Cost?, I have no real idea, but not all talented and capable metal workers charge sky high prices. I would reach out to those in your area, and maybe get a general idea of price and feasibility. If the numbers work out in your favor, and you like the gun, why not? It's value would be as a cool shooter, not a serious collector piece.

Larry
 
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This was actually one of the early later discarded development designs when an obscure designer was working up a new firearm which he could only half-remember from a nightmare following an ill-advised late evening meal involving sushi pizza and Jeagermeister at his hunting camp...His last later attempt at this revolutionary firearm sadly resulted in his demise (pictured below)...:o...Ben

zb5m54d1z3541.jpg
 
This was actually one of the early later discarded development designs when an obscure designer was working up a new firearm which he could only half-remember from a nightmare following an ill-advised late evening meal involving sushi pizza and Jeagermeister at his hunting camp...His last later attempt at this revolutionary firearm sadly resulted in his demise (pictured below)...:o...Ben

zb5m54d1z3541.jpg

We called that a "Polish Target Pistol". Made one up one time and presented it to a S/Sgt., who had shot himself in the foot on New Years Eve. We presented it at a Squadron formation.
 
My guess would be someone was getting a finger bruised while shooting hot loads. Easy solution - make more space there. Not a fix I would have done, but not everyone thinks alike.

Looks like you have one more word than necessary. If I had typed that the word alike would not be there!:D
 
Don't know why,,maybe they saw it in a movie,,maybe someone had a hand deformity and needed that done to be able to hold it.

To fix it is simple enough for anyone doing metal work on firearms.
No need to cut up another frame.
It's just a short piece of steel bent in a shallow arc.

Fit a piece of steel into place after trimming the frame ends square to accept it.
The new piece can be quite over size.
Weld into place. Then shape back down to match the orig contour of the trigger guard,,or make your own custom guard while you're at it.

Steel works easily with sharp files.

Then hand polish to match the orig finish on the gun.

Put some grips back on the gun that match the engraving pattern layout outline on the side plates.
 
No need to cut up a frame to get a filler piece. Small piece of 4140 ground close to sectional profile then bend it and trimmed a bit over sized, bevel both ends and work bevels til it fit in place. clamp the frame in a vice padded with brass to soak up the heat an tig weld it. Tack both end, let it cool, make a pass on one end, let cool, pass out other end, cool. pass cool, then once weld was over flush go to work with small files then strips of emery, then sand paper. The frame would never get close to the temperature needed to effect any temper.
 
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