Removing ejector rod from Model 18

[max503]

My Model 18 is from 1958. I just reamed the cylinders. I'm thinking of running some cold blue down the chambers on a Q-tip. But first I want to degrease the cylinders with some gun scrubber.

I put 6 empties in the charge holes then clamped the ejector rod in a wood clamp. (My instructions say to do this with the cylinder/crane assembly together.) I cannot turn the cylinder clockwise with my hand strength. I didn't try real hard. It was greasy.

What's next? Spray some liquid Wrench down the center hole and give it a soak?

Maybe skip the touch-up blue?

 

[Vtgw938]

I wouldn't put cold blue in the chambers. If you decide to get the extractor rod out you need to determine if left or right threads. At some point they switched to left hand threads. The newer rods have a short turned down section behind the knurling (blued guns). You might have to add more mechanical advantage but soaking in penetrating oil for a day or two never hurts. I have read that rods can be torqued to 45 inch/lbs, which is considerable but I would not go close to that with a vintage gun. You don't want to break the rod at the threads. I'm thinking you might want to just leave it alone.

 

[dfariswheel]

It should have right hand threads.
Put three empty cases in the chambers to support the ejector.
Put the ejector rod in a padded vise or use a rod clamp.
Unscrew the cylinder counterclockwise.

If the ejector rod head has a groove IN the knurling, it's a LEFT hand thread...turn the cylinder clockwise.
NOTE IN the middle of the knurling not on the rear side.

As an aid, use a rubber glove or a kitchen jar lid rubber gripper pad to grip the cylinder.
If the cylinder is way tight, it may have been Loctited, in which case you may have to warm the assembly up to melt it.
NOTE....WARM not smoking hot. A hair dryer is usually enough.

Putting cold blue in the chambers is not recommended.
Cold blue can actually cause rust, and it will do nothing of value in a chamber.
It won't prevent corrosion and won't last long when fired.

 

[max503]

OK I will put it back together and shoot it. That's what I was wanting to do anyway.

 

[45Smashemflat]

Not to hijack, but here is my 5 Screw K22. Serial K244XXX, I think that makes this one 1954-55. Looking at the ejector rod, I see no groove. So, clockwise or counterclockwise removal?

 

[Vtgw938]

Not to hijack, but here is my 5 Screw K22. Serial K244XXX, I think that makes this one 1954-55. Looking at the ejector rod, I see no groove. So, clockwise or counterclockwise removal?

Right hand threads so counterclockwise to remove just like every other normal fastener. If you have no "special" tools a drill chuck works well to hold the rod, just like a drill bit.

 

[DWalt]

There is apparently no groove below the extractor rod knurling, so it is likely a RH thread. I turned two steel rods in my lathe to fit tightly in my chambers instead of using fired cases. I use a piece of heavy leather and pliers to screw or unscrew the extractor rod. There are more elegant methods to do that. No reason I can think of to cold blue the chambers.

 

[Vtgw938]

I'm using two casings connected so they go in and leave the right amount exposed every time.

 

[chief38]

I always use a Drill Press Jacobs Chuck. Pull the plug out of the wall before doing this just in case! Put your empties in and Chuck the ER past the knurling so you do not bung it up. Tighten it securely with the Chuck Key but it should not be "gorilla tight", just tight enough so the ER will not spin. Hold the Chuck with one hand and turn the Cylinder with the other. It should unscrew fairly easy. After cleaning, use the reverse procedure to tighten it up. Make it tight enough that it doesn't loosen up but not too tight to damage it. If tightened properly there is no need to use thread locker!

BTW, I would not blue the inside of the charge holes.

 

[murphydog]

The left hand threaded extractor rod started with the -1 variants of guns being made prior to the changeover, in about 1962. So an all-original 1958 model 18 would have RH threading (righty tighty, lefty loosey).

Bluing is controlled rust, so not advisable for cylinder bores.

 

[OutWest50]

Here is a photo for quick reference regarding extractor rod threads.

 

[max503]

I contacted S&W and got this back:

Good Afternoon,

Thank you for contacting Smith & Wesson. Based on the year of manufacture per the serial number provided, that extractor should move right or clockwise.

Thank you,
Charlene

I've decided there's no need to remove it so I'm leaving it be.

 

[Tinkertech]

I hope to God that someone in the past did not use RED Loctite.

It takes at least 350* to break the bond, no other way according to Loctite.

Ask me how I know!

Red Loctite is only suppose to be use for permeative assemblies.

I hate spel correct.........

 

[max503]

Well. The new spring and cylinder reaming didn't help. It still misfires in DA.

I put in a Wolff spring. Pretty sure it was original weight. But it did have a longitudinal ridge down the middle.
Could it be reduced weight? If so, where can I get a stronger one?

 

[Vtgw938]

INCREASE the length of the strain screw (put something between the end of the screw and the spring) to see if is even going to help. You likely have other issues like firing pin, rear headspace, end shake or such.

 

[max503]

INCREASE the length of the strain screw (put something between the end of the screw and the spring) to see if is even going to help. You likely have other issues like firing pin, rear headspace, end shake or such.

I'll see if I can finagle a fired primer cup over the end of the strain screw - then take it out to the range.

Everything seems to lock up tight on this gun. I don't think it's ever been shot much. Till recently it's been my safe queen. And that's been like 30-35 (or more) years.

 

[Imissedagain]

I decided not to remove the ejector rod from my K22M, bought new in '79.
Might spray it with CRC Brakleen, non-chlorinated, then oil.
Gun is as tight as a buddy, who brought over one small
Pizza, for a party with 20 people.
Good thing my Mrs, brought 5 cases of Ale.

 

[chief38]

I hope to God that someone in the past did not use RED Loctite.

It takes at least 350* to break the bond, no other way according to Loctite.

Ask me how I know!

Red Loctite is only suppose to be use for permeative assemblies.

I hate spel correct.........

As a "general" statement for most gun owners......

Locktite thread lockers and Dremel style moto-tools should normally not be used on S&W revolvers. Now before anyone here gets their back up - - I am NOT talking about the few here who are Pro's, semi pro's and alike. I am talking about the average revolver owner's here. That is just my opinion of course.