Removing gas ring 686 Plus cylinder

[8shot]

What is the procedure used to remove the gas ring for a 686 Plus cylinder? Almost looks like it is sweated in.

 

[Well Armed]

What is the procedure used to remove the gas ring for a 686 Plus cylinder? Almost looks like it is sweated in.

Some soak in solvents. I simply use high grit wet sanding.

 

[8shot]

I want to completely remove it so I can face the cylinder and re-install the gas ring or a replacement.

 

[armorer951]

The gas ring collars are pressed in. I would carefully screw (or press in) an appropriate size "easy-out" into the exposed gas ring collar (after soaking) and then tap it out from the extractor side with a brass round.

You could probably do the same thing by using an appropriate size tap in the ring, and then just carefully push both the tap and attached collar out from the extractor end.


Carter

 

[Well Armed]

Oops I misunderstood what you were referring to. Sorry.

 

[Alk8944]

I want to completely remove it so I can face the cylinder and re-install the gas ring or a replacement.

Why do you want to face the cylinder? Unless it is more than .001-.002" out of square the chances of getting it better than the factory did are pretty small! Unless you are absolutely sure you and your equipment are capable of getting it better than is is then leave it alone! Either way you will not see any improvement in either velocities or accuracy, even if you can get it perfectly square, it will be a waste of time.

 

[Protocall_Design]

If you just want to square up the cylinder face a thou. or two, you don't need to remove the gas ring.

If you want to face off the cylinder 1/8" or so to make it fit a 929 or something with a longer barrel shank, just leave the original material below the barrel and use that for the gas ring. I did that on a 627 cylinder to make a convertible 929 (9mm and 38/357) and made it look like a little mushroom with a head on the end. Now it directs all the gas and debris sideways and no dirt gets in the end.

 

[8shot]

If you just want to square up the cylinder face a thou. or two, you don't need to remove the gas ring.

If you want to face off the cylinder 1/8" or so to make it fit a 929 or something with a longer barrel shank, just leave the original material below the barrel and use that for the gas ring. I did that on a 627 cylinder to make a convertible 929 (9mm and 38/357) and made it look like a little mushroom with a head on the end. Now it directs all the gas and debris sideways and no dirt gets in the end.

Thanks Warren

I'm cutting down a 686 PLUS cylinder to fit my 986 so I can use 38 spl cases without moon clips. Tried using JB Weld overnight with a slug inside the gas ring...didn't work.

(So) Just tapped the gas ring and have a bolt started in there with some lock-tite...will let it cure overnight and drive it out tomorrow.

I have had an extra SS gas ring in my parts bin for years, so I get to use it, been looking for a source for additional gas rings...but no luck - sold out.

My 986 loves that 6" (.355) barrel you cut for me...and it really loves those 138 gr Bayou BNWC. You have your caca together and always are there to help!

 

[8shot]

OK..turned down a 686 Plus cylinder to fit my 986. Made an extractor hand cutting tool to complete the project.

It's a complete one screw swap, but you wind up with two different feeling machines, points of impact are way off (from each other) with the same bullet.

Where the 986 (9mm) likes heavy bullets, the installed 686 Plus cylinder likes a lighter bullet.

BTW: The hand cutting tool is like using nail clippers.

Will be looking for an L frame parts gun to make a dedicated short cylinder revolver.

Again thanks to Protocall Design for the input, he really knows his stuff!

 

[steelslaver]

Everytime I make a extractor cutting tool someone buys it from me

 

[8shot]

Everytime I make a extractor cutting tool someone buys it from me

Sure makes the job real easy...but not for sale

 

[steelslaver]

My approach was to buy a lot of triggers off Ebay, When I need one a few minutes with a welder and some 309 rod a hand for the correct model and I am set. I round off the out outside edge on top of the hand a bit.

Neat tool that I never knew about until someone posted one here

 

[8shot]

My approach was to buy a lot of triggers off Ebay, When I need one a few minutes with a welder and some 309 rod a hand for the correct model and I am set. I round off the out outside edge on top of the hand a bit.

Neat tool that I never knew about until someone posted one here

The only precaution I took was to remove the hand return spring from the trigger before welding. After tig welding...reinstalled the spring.

 

[steelslaver]

I have a vise with big brass jaws that acts as a heat sink. The last one I made I used a piece of 1/2" round stock for the lever portion. I also slightly round off the upper corner of the hand opposite the part that works the ratchet. Less apt to try and dig the frame window it rides in as it cuts the teeth.

I kind of worried about the trigger stud, but the pin the hand use is smaller and has less support so it should break well before the trigger stud,

On the gas ring deal, I have one of the new stainless 45 acp cylinders that is shorter than the normal ones. I am fitting it to a 1917 and am going shorten it a bit more and ream out the ring slightly oversized and make a longer oversized gas ring for it. I am making my version of a PPC revolver and want a 45acp with the cylinder just long enough for the bullet nose. I will end up with a fairly long barrel shank