Removing lead from barrel

I hate to bring this up this late in the thread, but most if not all
leading can be avoided by matching the bullet diameter to the chamber
throat diameter. The medium to hard alloys are useful here.
Dead soft lead might be needed for expansion but otherwise is
useless.
I have several 1980's 44's that have oversized cylinder throats.
Using oversized matching bullets eliminated leading almost completely.
I just run a patch or 2 with solvent to get rid of the carbon. Then
a dry brass brush for awhile in the bore. Another patch of solvent
and then maybe a couple with JB compound. It's clean. I have
never had streaking up the barrel, just some precipitation at the
cone. Polishing the barrel with JB helps too over the long run.

I shoot a lot of lead target loads and some husky ones as well
and have never had to clean more than the first inch of the barrel.
I must have in the past as I have some old used Lewis
parts but don't actually remember when I used them last (I'm
getting old).

Oregon Trail offers one of the widest ranges of bullet diameters
I know of. No affiliation, they don't even know me, etc.

I use their .431 44 bullets that actually measure .432. They
are enough larger that my Redding profile crimp sticks on them.
I am in the process of getting one .002' larger at the base.
Their seat/crimp die does work with these.

Increased accuracy and no leading. Time to break out that micrometer.

---
Nemo
 
I read somewhere, not sure where, that if you run a dry copper brush through the bore to roughen up the lead after shooting and then let it sit for a day or two, it helps the lead to oxidize. Then clean the bore with a lead removing solvent, as the oxidized lead is much easier to remove.

I reload and shoot jacketed bullets, but I am starting to reload lead for reduced loads for my daughter. I haven't tried this yet but am interested if anyone else has.

I haven't reloaded lead for a long time as my first attempts produced bad accuracy. I was shooting 158gr and 130gr LFP bullets out of a 586 and a 686. My daughter said she wanted a revolver(that would fit her hands) so I got her a model 10-5.

The old lead reloads I still had and some new ones that I just loaded with a different type bullet(158gr LSWHP) shoot fantastic through the Model 10-5. I had thought that I had crappy bullets, or that reloading lead required some type of special voodoo. Now I am happy that I kept those bullets and am looking for a older 38 of my very own.
If you're still looking for a fairly accurate, soft shooting load in 38 special, hard to beat a 105 grain truncated over 2.5 grains of Hodgdon Clays. I'm shooting them for the price of .22 LR and I can shoot thousands of them a weekend.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks. I had the Lewis years ago. I don't recall if I pushed or pulled, but I'm sure I followed the instructions. So I put the rod through the barrel front to back, put the tip on with the screen, and pull back out towards the front of the gun? ( for revolvers)

YES. And do NOT wet the bore as the LLR is meant to be used DRY. ALSO do NOT tighten the knurled nut fully. Leave it about 3/4 of a turn loose so the rubber can expand. The Forcing Cone tool will clean the lead from that area in 20 seconds like nothing else. EXCELLENT devise!
 
Strands of Chore Boy wrapped around a bore brush and you will see the lead just fall out of the barrel. I don't think I've ever had to use more than 10-15 strokes through to remove every sign of lead.

Stu
 
YES. And do NOT wet the bore as the LLR is meant to be used DRY. ALSO do NOT tighten the knurled nut fully. Leave it about 3/4 of a turn loose so the rubber can expand. The Forcing Cone tool will clean the lead from that area in 20 seconds like nothing else. EXCELLENT devise!

This is the key to using it. leave loose so it can be pulled easily through the barrel, then start tightening so it gets more difficult. It will get the lead out! ;)
 
Back
Top