Removing revolver side plate.

[des547]

My son in law has an older Model 19 that needs a good lube. Single action dry firing will sometimes cause the trigger to remain back, doesn't reset. Nudge the trigger just a tad and it will reset. The gun hasn't been fired much but has been stored and not oiled. I would like to remove the side plate and give a look inside in order to oil the action properly.

How do you remove the side plate ? I remember reading, a long time ago, to whack the grip frame with a screw driver handle and the plate would pop right up. I also remember reading to not pry the plate up with a screwdriver. After you remove the screws of course.

Thanks for the assist.

Desmond

 

[-db-]

You've got the idea. Remove the screws with a proper-fitting screwdriver (and keep them organized to return to their respective places- they're not interchangeable), turn the gun over a towel or other soft surface and rap the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle or something similar and the plate should pop free.

 

[ditrina]

My son in law has an older Model 19 that needs a good lube. Single action dry firing will sometimes cause the trigger to remain back, doesn't reset. Nudge the trigger just a tad and it will reset. The gun hasn't been fired much but has been stored and not oiled. I would like to remove the side plate and give a look inside in order to oil the action properly.

How do you remove the side plate ? I remember reading, a long time ago, to whack the grip frame with a screw driver handle and the plate would pop right up. I also remember reading to not pry the plate up with a screwdriver. After you remove the screws of course.

Thanks for the assist.

Desmond

Pretty much you got it!!

 

[Dragon88]

Most important thing is to not pry the side plate off, and to be careful with the screws so you don't bugger them or scratch the side plate. After removing the screws, you can either rap on the grip frame to pop the sideplate up, or just dry fire the gun a few times. The side plate will pop right up.

Before removing the side plate and fiddling with the action, which can turn into a big headache, try spraying oil into the action from the outside. Using a can of Remoil, spray liberally into the openings around the trigger, cylinder stop, hand, hammer, and mainspring (with the stocks off obviously). You want the revolver to be dripping oil out of every opening. Let it drain onto a cloth for a while, then wipe it off and check the action.

Be aware that improper trigger reset is likely the symptom of an actual problem in the action, not simple lack of lubrication.

 

[des547]

Thank you so much guys. Maybe my memory isn't so bad after all.

Dragon, this Model 19 has been stored for probably 8 or 10 years. It belonged to son in laws dad and he had it for a number of years before he passed away. I think it just hasn't been used or lubed and whatever lube it came out of the factory with has dried.

Thanks for the suggestion of just spraying it full without removing the side plate. I think it would be best to try that and maybe we won't have to remove the plate.

Thanks again,

Desmond

 

[chief38]

When you remove the side plate, check for a broken, weak, cut down or too light - rebound spring. That could be the culprit .

Chief38

 

[Dragon88]

Many Smiths have sat for decades, some an entire century, between firings. They usually work just fine. A good lubrication is definitely a good thing, but keep in mind the rebound spring may be the culprit as chief said as you work this one through.

 

[des547]

Thanks again fella's. I will keep the rebound spring in mind as we poke around in it's innards. Maybe I can get a pic or two and report back.

Des

 

[H Richard]

As chief38 said, unless the gun was used a lot years ago and is really grungy inside, they usually work, so check for a shortened or weak spring in the rebound slide. Work slow and careful and you should be O.K.. One thing I do is after screws are out, I hold the gun in my left hand with my thumb resting very lightly on the side plate while I am striking the grip frame with the hammer handle (a small hammer handle). That way when the side plate pops up you can keep it from falling off on the bench top. Also, I keep old carpet sample's on my bench top as a soft landing and keeps parts from rolling around.

 

[jepp2]

+1 on what H. Richard said about removing. That is exactly how I take them off. I want my hand to capture it, so it doesn't potentially end on the floor.

Also realize if you remove it, you have to put it back on. Assuming you didn't pry it off, I feel you are potentially more likely to damage it reinstalling it (if you don't know what you are doing). Make sure you have the hammer block in the correct position (up) and you start both tabs (top and right) together as you begin to press it back into place.

 

[vickersmaster303]

Side Plate Removal

My son in law has an older Model 19 that needs a good lube. Single action dry firing will sometimes cause the trigger to remain back, doesn't reset. Nudge the trigger just a tad and it will reset. The gun hasn't been fired much but has been stored and not oiled. I would like to remove the side plate and give a look inside in order to oil the action properly.

How do you remove the side plate ? I remember reading, a long time ago, to whack the grip frame with a screw driver handle and the plate would pop right up. I also remember reading to not pry the plate up with a screwdriver. After you remove the screws of course.

Thanks for the assist.

Desmond

Well, for the most part tapping the sideplate will loosen for removal, it is really not necessary. Keep the flat of the hand on top and just pop it off with a screwdriver while maintaining control at the upper end ie where the fourth screw used to be. I have never deformed or caused any damage using this and I have removed more than a few. This technique can be seen on the AGI S&W revolver gunsmithing DVD. Bob Dunlop master gunsmith demonstrates this removal technique.
JMO

 

[PH-2]

I've watched Bob's videos and I'm the first to admit that he has forgotten much more than I know, but some of his techniques make me cringe with high pucker-factor!

Mike

 

[Drail]

When removing the sideplate screws keep track of which screw went into which hole. They are all different and if you mix them up it can cause problems. I take a small piece of cardboard and punch holes and place each screw in the cardboard until reassembly time. On older S&Ws the front screw was handfit to that frame to hold the crane in exactly the right position. If one of the other screws gets screwed in there the crane can bind.

 

[vickersmaster303]

Bob's Videos

I've watched Bob's videos and I'm the first to admit that he has forgotten much more than I know, but some of his techniques make me cringe with high pucker-factor!

Mike

Lol.........true but Simple Green never fails!

 

[David LaPell]

Jerry Miculek's Trigger Job DVD is a great place to learn how to disassemble a Smith revolver. It shows how to do the job the right way. Very informative.

 

[ogilvyspecial]

Even though I have the AGI S&W Revolver DVD my go to resources are either, Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" (I have both of Jerry's S&W DVD's) or Teddy Jacobson's, Actions by T, S&W Revolver DVD.

In Teddy's DVD he not only explains/demonstrates disassembly & reassembly of a N Frame, but covers the J as well......

For detailed help I use Jerry Kuhnausen's book, "The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual."