Renaissance Wax
- Thread starter johnbeaver
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wlp624
Member
^^^ ouch 
MichiganScott
Member
The only problem I've ever had with the J&J Paste Wax is it dries with an orange cast in any roll marks if you apply it too thick. However, the price is right and it's easy to find.
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Since I don't have any Safe Queens, I have never felt the need to wax up a gun. I would say just about all of my guns are in at least 98%+ condition and they all get shot, some more and some less. After cleaning I wipe them down with a light coat of Rig #2 Oil and put them back in their box, that's it. If I did have a safe queen or a wall hangar and wanted to show it off then I guess I would give the Renwax a try - it certainly gets enough rave reviews around here!.
SgtLumpy
Member
It's also handy for twisting up a moustache, AND it's great on nachos...
Sgt Lumpy
Sgt Lumpy
beagleye
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Johnson's paste wax (original formula) is great too. No abrasives. It's great under gun stocks and it makes a nice water repellent durable finish.
The problem with the standard "light coating of oil" is that you may come back after month and find rust spots and no oil. Sometimes it evaporates.
The problem with the standard "light coating of oil" is that you may come back after month and find rust spots and no oil. Sometimes it evaporates.
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66Park
Member
Boy, did I find that out the hard way! And on two custom Colt 1911s, no less.
Cpo1944
Member
I use and like Ren wax, but Kiwi shoe polish neutral color works great and is so Cheap!!! I really cannot tell any difference between the two.
texagun
Member
Permit me to ask the question that I've seen asked a few times but never answered:
Does the Renaissance Wax melt off a gun that has been shot extensively at the range and has heated up? Does it need to be re-applied every time you shoot it?
Does the Renaissance Wax melt off a gun that has been shot extensively at the range and has heated up? Does it need to be re-applied every time you shoot it?
diamonback68
US Veteran
Simple answer...........................NO.
boxerrider
Member
Or applied it with a scotchbrite pad?
I use a lot of Johnson's paste wax on tool surfaces, and since it's what I have around I use it on my guns too. Guns that sit, guns that get shot regularly, and the ones that get carried.
Enjoy!
SgtLumpy
Member
I too use Johnson's paste wax on tools, drill bits, saw blades to protect and to lubricate when cutting. Great lubricant on saw and drill press tables since it contains no silicone like some of the table sprays made for bench tools (doesn't interfere with later finishing the way silicone does).
A lot of musicians I know use paste wax on the back of a guitar or bass or upright bass necks. Lots of them remove the lacquer or don't finish it to begin with, and use the paste wax as the finish. Add to it any time months, years, decades later. Can't crack or develop "spider web" fractures the way nitro lacquer does.
I just built a reloading bench from masonite topped plywood and poplar edging. Finished the entire thing in Johnson's. No oil, no shellac, no poly etc. Nice low sheen. Very mild amber "toning down" of the lighter color wood. Leaves a surface that is smooth but still has enough matte to it so that tools like drill bits, runaway grains of ball powder, cartridges etc don't roll all over the place.
Sgt Lumpy
A lot of musicians I know use paste wax on the back of a guitar or bass or upright bass necks. Lots of them remove the lacquer or don't finish it to begin with, and use the paste wax as the finish. Add to it any time months, years, decades later. Can't crack or develop "spider web" fractures the way nitro lacquer does.
I just built a reloading bench from masonite topped plywood and poplar edging. Finished the entire thing in Johnson's. No oil, no shellac, no poly etc. Nice low sheen. Very mild amber "toning down" of the lighter color wood. Leaves a surface that is smooth but still has enough matte to it so that tools like drill bits, runaway grains of ball powder, cartridges etc don't roll all over the place.
Sgt Lumpy
DWalt
Member
As I earlier said, I use Johnson's paste wax on many things, both steel and wood. This has been several years back, but I used it once as the primary finish on a walnut .22 rifle stock that was looking fairly sorry. I stripped off the original finish with acetone, and then applied several coats of JPW over a period of time. It looks fine. I don't see why neutral shoe polish wouldn't work as well. Wax is wax.
Every gun in the John Browning museum gets a coat once a month,,(I was there watching and is how i discovered it) and reading other reviews of the wax I've learned it is used extensively by the smithsonian institute on their furniture and firearms ,,,,good enough for me,,,i have my whole collection "waxed" as well as the screen on the iPad I'm currently typing on
Ren Wax is all I've ever used and it does a great job of preserving both the metal and the wood stocks, like this one 
Chuck
Chuck
Just tried it on my pad and phone.Works great.
HKB
US Veteran
I use Ren Wax sometimes on old military leather items. If they made it in a spray can I'd probably use it more often. I have never used it on my firearms, I use a good gun oil and wipe it down leaving the surface with a very thin film. To get a high luster finish on guns I sometimes use Ballistol.
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If you clean a gun and apply a light coat of any descent gun oil and the gun is rusted in only a month...... I would have to say that you are storing the guns in a very damp and humid environment. If that's the case, oil or wax won't solve the problem, but a dehumidifier or golden rid in the safe might.
Just saying..........
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