Replacing Sights on M&P’s

[CB3]

I bent two of the largest brass punches from sets I had and marred the factory sights—without getting them off. The slide was in a leather padded vise. Always drift out left to right from rear perspective. In from right to left.

I hammered a large brass punch into a rectangle the size of the side of the front sight. Penetrating oil. Freezing it. Still would not move.

I bought a generic $75 pusher which I have used to change out 7 different sets of factory S&W sights. Getting them off: hard. Getting new ones on, properly fitted by sanding the bottom a little to get the right press fit: not hard. Never had a replacement sight move, and I've never had a problem removing it if I needed to using the pusher. I believe the replacement sights would move just fine with a big, rectangular brass punch.

I wish I had bought a better pusher as I have had to re-face the pusher bar a couple of times as it deforms when removing the factory sights. Considering how many of these projects I have tackled and how many more I expect to do on various pistols (some as yet not acquired), the amortized cost of a good pusher is worth it to me.

If I was going to change sights on one or two guns, I would bite the proverbial bullet and have a competent local 'smith do it, or send it away. After it's paid and things are right, $35 is not a lot of money to get what you want, IMO.

 

[epj]

Define "good pusher" and tell me where to get one for a reasonable price, please.

Jennings Machine and Tool
Recommend the Mk lll along with both square adapter sets, though you can probably get by with just the standard one for the rear.

 

[epj]

I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. Some use a punch and a hammer to move the sights out of the dovetail. Some say sight pusher is a must. Some say Shield slide is thin and can be bent. I'm not sure my local gunsmith wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg. How easy is it to do it? I have a Shield 1.0, a 2.0 Compact in 9MM, and a 2.0 full size .45.

This is old, but will provide some useful information:
Shield sight change Picture heavy

 

[ROB94045]

This one is similar to the one I used.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZ7VYEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TXkpDbWQXRSF0[/ame]

It's functional but there are definitely better choices available with many of them being far more affordable than they were when I did this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[Will2]

I watched the Dawson Precision video several times on using a brass punch to remove the front sight before I attempted the removal. It is very clear and describes which direction to remove the sight.

Full disclosure ... I started with my least favorite M&P. I wanted to practice before I worked on my favorite CORE. I used a dremel to form the end of a brass rod into a rectangle, to match the shape of my front sight. The video suggested many small taps with a small hammer... that just didn't work. I used many large hits with a full size hammer.

The CORE front sight was much easier to move. The rear sights on all 3 of my M&Ps were also easier. I suppose they are all different.

I expect the sight tools work just fine. I just used a hammer and punch.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

I had to adjust the sights on my 3 Shields. I used a heat gun and a flat punch.

 

[ROB94045]

I had to adjust the sights on my 3 Shields. I used a heat gun and a flat punch.

That's interesting. I'd heard that was not uncommon with Shields. When I got mine I thought the front sight might be a RCH off-center and that I would have to adjust it, so I brought my sight pusher to the range in the first trip. But it turned out to be sighted in nicely.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[epj]

One thing to consider concerning use of a punch and hammer: you have to be able to hold the slide in a vise or other device so it is immobile. The device, usually a vise, needs to be mounted to a very sturdy work bench or other fixture. The vise and work bench can frequently far exceed the cost of a good sight pusher.

 

[Lindy]

If you do not care about the stock sights, then I would use a steel punch.
I replace mine and I toss the factory sights.

I have a heavy vise that is mounted on a bench with big bolts. I have magnetic rubber vise inserts. I apply penetrating oil and let it sit for about an hour. I put a couple of layers of electrical tape on the punch end (in case of a slip or whatever) and I hit at the base of the front sight (not at the base of the dove tail) and after a few good whacks it will break free and tap out with a few light taps. On the back sight I tap at the ridge of the sight just above the dove tail. The rear breaks free easier in my experience. Make sure you not angling the punch down but perpendicular so the force is pushing out and not down and out.

Going in I have used either a brass or nylon punch and it requires much less effort. I use loctite on the new front site in the groove and on the screw in the rear.

Good video...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avy0LknVVO0[/ame]

 

[FredBart]

Be very careful with tritium sights. Using a punch on these sights can lead to broken tubes. A sight pusher is money well spent, or bring to slide to a gunsmith. Alternately, many sight manufacturers will install tritium sights for you for a reasonable fee.

 

[mobiless2]

MGW sight tool is a solid tool, well worth the money. Applying some heat for 10-15 minutes prior to removing sight helps a lot.

My first set, I had a gunsmith do them on a Shield, he bent 2 large brass punch before they moved.

 

[epj]

Indeed the MGW tool seems quite capable. Of course, at just under $400 I would expect it to be! The JMT tools are a real bargain by comparison.

 

[Saudade]

I have a 1.0 FS and Compact. I didn't change the sights but I did remove the rears to clean up the striker block and channel. My vise and brass punch was all I needed.

 

[Lindy]

A friend of mine just bought this tool and used it to replace his sights. I was there when he did it. It worked really well and does not cost that much. It is pretty robust and made in the US.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016R4DXJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Here is a review of it installing M&P sights.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o5KAA_gbbA[/ame]

 

[V0OBWxZS16]

Jennings Machine and Tool
Recommend the Mk lll along with both square adapter sets, though you can probably get by with just the standard one for the rear.

I actually have a sight pusher similar to the one ROB94045 posted. The thread pitch on the pusher bolt is so coarse you can't generate much force and I practically needed to use a breaker bar to get the factory sights off of my Shield. The MGW pusher looks to have a fine thread pitch giving a much better mechanical advantage. How is the JMT pusher for tough sights?

 

[epj]

I actually have a sight pusher similar to the one ROB94045 posted. The thread pitch on the pusher bolt is so coarse you can't generate much force and I practically needed to use a breaker bar to get the factory sights off of my Shield. The MGW pusher looks to have a fine thread pitch giving a much better mechanical advantage. How is the JMT pusher for tough sights?

The JMT pushers are all VERY robust and frequently able to remove sights that are too tight for other pushers and punches.

 

[Saudade]

The JMT pushers are all VERY robust and frequently able to remove sights that are too tight for other pushers and punches.

Perhaps you should disclose your relationship.

 

[epj]

My relationship to whom? As far as JMT (Jennings Machine and Tool) goes, I am chief designer, head machinist, sales manager, and janitor. Probably some other functions as well.