Revolver Action Job Question

Update -

I got shims from Power Custom.

I adjusted the Yoke as suggested using the following procedure -

Yoke screw out (large front screw on side plate)
Check yoke play in closed position
Add shims. If you hit the frame at the top of the yoke you'll feel it and know you've shimmed to far. Remove a shim.

I then set the cylinder end shake to .0015-.002. I used the power custom yoke face reamer tools to square off the yoke and take a tad off to get the end shake nice and tight.

From there I went on to square up the hammer and trigger bosses. My hammer was crooked, and required three shims on the frame side, zero on the plate side. Huge improvement after doing this.

I'll note that I spent an hour or so adding and removing hammer shims, and tightening the side plate down (as that's the only real way to see if your hammer is riding without rub) before I found the optimal setting.

On the trigger I squared it up with a reamer and just added one shim on each side. I can see it's very easy to bring the trigger out, effecting the hand/window relationship. So... I left it at that.

I removed the lock completely, and ordered plugs from Bullseye Smith.

Finally, I clipped the 11lb rebound spring about 3 coils. This is the most I can get without having reset issues.

I'm right around 7lbs or just under depending on the pull.

Trigger feels amazing. This gun will shoot any ammo. I'm not limited to Federal primers.

I'm going to try and get down a bit more by lightening the hammer next.
 
Sounds like the shims worked well.

Three coils off of an 11 pound recoil spring? How's is the integrity of the SA? Seems like this very light condition would result in a very light (dangerous) SA, and a high probability of push off.
 
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Sounds like the shims worked well.

Three coils off of an 11 pound recoil spring? Seems like this very light condition would result in a very light SA, and push off.


:confused:

What does spring weight have to do with push off?
 
I couldnt read all these entries because to a degree its like diagnosing cancer over the phone.Its tricky trying to work on the innards of a revolver without the right tools or training , even if someone is describing what to look for or do, so good luck. But one of the first things to look at, after the rod, is your yoke straight.
Also check the opening at the end of your ejection rod, sometimes the hole is ovaled out inside and causes uneven stress from the rod pin, as the cylinder turns. Bent rods and the uneven recess in the end is one good reason PPC type revolvers use a ball and detent for lock-up.
Take your time, Bob
 
The SA pull is 2lbs. No push off.

I would like to convert this a ball/detent lock up.... That would be another fun project.
 
Just got done modifying the hammer. Started at 27 grams, ended at 19. And, I kept the DA spur.

Made a jig so I can repeat this over and over on the drill press. It requires some freehand Dremel work too, but the jig and drill press make the rest pretty easy.
 

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