Revolver barrel replacement
- Thread starter getskay
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
You just need another barrel. You will probably have to cut off the cracked part with a hacksaw before you take it out of the frame. There are old barrels out there for replacements, or you can make a new one from a blank on the lathe.
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I would search the usual places like Numrich, Jack First, ebay, etc. and get a barrel. If you have good mechanical skills, tools, equipment and understand how to do jobs like setting the B/C Gap, then yes you can do it. If you are unsure of yourself and don't want to chance ruing the Frame, then a GOOD/RELIABLE local GS might be the way to go. You will still need to get a barrel though.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
When removing and replacing a barrel on a revolver the single most important tool is a frame jig to completely support the revolver frame as the old barrel is forced out and the new barrel is screwed in securely. Without proper support the frame may easily twist or distort under the pressures applied. This is work best left to experienced gunsmiths with the proper tooling to get it done without damage to the frame.
Lots of used barrels available for your old Pre-10 (look on GunBroker), but this is not a job to be done in the garage with a bench vise and plumbing wrench!
Lots of used barrels available for your old Pre-10 (look on GunBroker), but this is not a job to be done in the garage with a bench vise and plumbing wrench!
I'll second that. When I finally found a replacement barrel for my M57 I thought about trying to tackle it myself...for about 5 minutes. Then I took it to my local guy and gave him $125 to do it. Money definitely well spent.
Simply replacing a barrel is not open heart surgery for a person who owns, and knows how to operate, a lathe.
Properly supporting the frame to prevent twisting it is the most important caveat.
Check the barrel to cylinder gap before removing the old barrel, as you might need to trim the barrel shoulder to get the sight lined up at top dead center.
Small amounts of metal can be removed from the forcing cone face with a flat file.
Robert
Properly supporting the frame to prevent twisting it is the most important caveat.
Check the barrel to cylinder gap before removing the old barrel, as you might need to trim the barrel shoulder to get the sight lined up at top dead center.
Small amounts of metal can be removed from the forcing cone face with a flat file.
Robert
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Robert is correct the operation of fitting up a new barrel is well within the grasp of a man, a lathe, some mindful apprehension and patience. With that said, when I had my shop I saw my share of butchered rebarrels and often by some pretty decent machinists. Most could be saved but not always. So take your time and do your homework and you'll be fine. Ron Power was the fastest I'd ever seen on pulling down a revolver and fitting up a new barrel and I was told Jimmy Clark ( Sr ) was the king
Or let a real mechanic do it.
Or let a real mechanic do it.
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
I built a few PPC guns with Ron Power back in the day. He is a really great guy. He had a lot of practice even back then.
My thought, for what that is worth to you, unless you absolutely want to do it yourself (I can relate) pay what is likely to be a modest amount of money and have a pro do it. It will probably cost less than it would for you to build a decent frame wrench and will certainly cost less than it would cost you to buy one.
Welcome to the S&W Forums.
Your barrel has suffered non-repairable damage and will need to be replaced. If you do not have the skills and equipment for this procedure, definitely find a competent gunsmith.
Your barrel has suffered non-repairable damage and will need to be replaced. If you do not have the skills and equipment for this procedure, definitely find a competent gunsmith.
Not contentious, just curious--why cut off the
cracked part of forcing cone, vs just unscrewing barrel
intact?
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Because when the forcing cone cracks, it splays out at the end like a bugle. The more shots that are fired after it first cracks, the bigger the bugle part gets. Then you will damage the threads in the frame if you force that larger diameter through by unscrewing the barrel.
that's amazing feedback, i will definitely try to duplicate the Burrell myself using piece of land Rover dry shaft, as tough metal and think it will be good for a Burrell. do you think that ?
then i will search the proper way to unscrew the old burrel without damaging the frame.
then i will search the proper way to unscrew the old burrel without damaging the frame.
I suspect my laig is being pooled...
Yeah, everyone knows Land Rover drive shafts aren't the correct twist...
how come, cant understand you
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