Revolver shooting technique

[selmerfan]

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post these questions, please move if necessary.

I'm a revolver newbie, relative pistol newbie. I own a Ruger Mk III Target .22 LR pistol and just purchased a 1948 K38 Masterpiece to jump into the revolver shooting game. I do not intend to shoot competitively. I shoot to compete against myself, if that makes sense. I've been shooting guns for 30 years now and reloading for over 20. I can take my bolt guns and wring them down to sub-MOA precision from a bench and blow up milk jugs at 600 yds. I have been shooting TC Encore pistol platform for 10 years now and killed lots of deer with it.

BUT - I don't "know how" to properly shoot a revolver, bench technique and off-hand technique.
First - bench technique - I like to do load workup for guns. I might enjoy load workup more than shooting. But I don't know how to properly support my revolver for shooting when shooting from the bench. Do I use a front rest with a bag for the butt and rest the barrel on the front rest sandbag? (A big no-no with rifles - don't let the barrel touch anything!!!) Or do I support it under the frame leaving the barrel above the rest and not touching? I want to shoot for groups to determine good loads for my gun.

Second - sighting in. Do I sight in from a rest? Or do I sight in from a support offhand position? I ask this because I have a suspicion that the point of impact might be different from a supported bench position vs. offhand shooting. And for target/plinking/hunting do I sight in for POA at 6 o'clock position so that the bullet strikes the center of the "clock"? Or do I sight-in for a "black out" of the target with front sight?

Third - offhand shooting. Should I be shooting this one-handed or two-handed Weaver stance or isosceles stance?

These are all questions which came to mind while at my first two range sessions with this gun. All of that being said, with 148 gr. WC and 2.8 gr. Bullseye I was breaking clay targets at 25 yds with regularity, so I must be doing a few things right.

 

[OKFC05]

Suggest you start out by watching Mr Miculek's videos.

How you sight in depends on what you want to shoot. All the action pistol games place the bullet at the top of the front sight. When you sight in, you need to hold the gun and rest your hands. The revolver will shoot away from a firm surface if you rest the gun---unless that is how you plan to shoot all the time.

Offhand shooting: anything will work if you take all the time in the world for the shot. The two-handed modified isosceles has become the accepted standard for rapid, accurate shooting.

 

[tomcatt51]

First - bench technique - I like to do load workup for guns. I might enjoy load workup more than shooting. But I don't know how to properly support my revolver for shooting when shooting from the bench. Do I use a front rest with a bag for the butt and rest the barrel on the front rest sandbag? (A big no-no with rifles - don't let the barrel touch anything!!!) Or do I support it under the frame leaving the barrel above the rest and not touching? I want to shoot for groups to determine good loads for my gun.

I support kinda under the frame: front of the trigger guard, frame and under the extractor rod, that area. Usually with that area pressed into a bag or rolled up old bath towel. Then a second towel or bag under my wrists. Nothing under the butt. Resting the gun butt is usually asking for problems unless the gun is very light recoiling.

Second - sighting in. Do I sight in from a rest? Or do I sight in from a support offhand position?

And for target/plinking/hunting do I sight in for POA at 6 o'clock position so that the bullet strikes the center of the "clock"? Or do I sight-in for a "black out" of the target with front sight?

Sight in with your bench set-up. Check it with just the support under your wrists.

General shooting you usually sight for POI right at the top of your front sight. Bullseye shooting excepted...

Third - offhand shooting. Should I be shooting this one-handed or two-handed Weaver stance or isosceles stance?

The "two-handed modified isosceles" is the current "best practice". I tend to shoot a more Weaverish modified isoceles.

 

[Rex Goliath]

I support kinda under the frame: front of the trigger guard, frame and under the extractor rod, that area. Usually with that area pressed into a bag or rolled up old bath towel. Then a second towel or bag under my wrists. Nothing under the butt. Resting the gun butt is usually asking for problems unless the gun is very light recoiling.

Sight in with your bench set-up. Check it with just the support under your wrists.

General shooting you usually sight for POI right at the top of your front sight. Bullseye shooting excepted...

The "two-handed modified isosceles" is the current "best practice". I tend to shoot a more Weaverish modified isoceles.

Selmerfan,
I am returning to revolver target shooting after a long absence. Unlike semi-auto pistols, as you know, gases are vented out through the gap between the barrel and the cylinder. Thus it is dangerous to have one's hand or fingers exposed near the hot exhaust

The placement of the finger on the trigger is the first order of business which is a little different from rifle or semi-auto pistols. The pad of the index finger needs to be square to the face of the trigger, the grip is secondary.

Repeatedly AND consistently finding that exact finger pad and trigger placement makes for the most controlled pull.

With that, I will stop for now and pick up the post again later about grip, which is very dependent on the hand itself.


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[JohnSW]

Suggest you start out by watching Mr Miculek's videos.

How to shoot a Revolver with world record shooter, Jerry Miculek

How to shoot a Revolver with world record shooter, Jerry Miculek! (handgun grip & stance) - YouTube

 

[S&WIowegan]

The answer to your questions depend on what you want to achieve. If you want to concentrate on shooting incredibly tight/small groups with your K38, you need to acquire a Ransom rest. It is extremely difficult to achieve full accuracy potential off bags.

On the other hand, if your interest is plinking off-hand or shooting targets for fun or even competing in one or more gun games, the Jerry M. video is the place to start.

Have fun and be safe.

 

[Rex Goliath]

Selmerfan, congratulations on having that great 1948 K38. It is both a work of art and science where form meets function. You will get hours of enjoyment from shooting your K38.

Good advice from the previous posters. In addition to Jerry M, you may find Massad Ayoob is another source of articles or on-line advice. I will send you a PM also.



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[Rex Goliath]

Selmerfan, given the thread title; I would have expected as many opinions as there are forum members.
Picking up from where I left off above and from my PM to you; there are a guns that shoot poorly or can be inaccurate. More often, the gun is more accurate than the person shooting it. Mastering the revolver (or pistol) has a mental aspect, psychological barriers and challenges we individually address and overcome. There are psychological advantages which come with repeated and routine gun handling. Familiarity with the revolver, in your case the K38.

Once the revolver is unloaded, there is no live ammo around to confuse things; grip the stock putting your index finger on the tiger (weak or strong hand does matter). Look at the gun and your grip from above. See how your finger naturally finds its position on the trigger.

The index finger (tip & joint) is a lever. It is your pivot point or fulcrum used to manipulate the trigger. The farther the trigger from your fulcrum, the more force is required to perform the same amount of work. The more strength we need to use to (pull or roll) press the trigger. Thus the greater the chances of moving our sights out of alignment. Also note the differences in alignment of the trigger finger from the second knuckle back to the hand. You have the benefit of having already been to the range; take a look at your target. If your shots went left (if you were shooting right handed); next time out, try adding more finger to the trigger.


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[Rex Goliath]

Selmerfan, Just like a rifle's length of pull and drop, we must still be able to pull the trigger all while holding the revolver steady (no worries, we all have wobble and grip tremor), get the sight picture and keep sight alignment (maybe more important than sight picture). Obviously, with the revolver, there is a lot less to hold onto.

You are familiar with recoil. In the same way the projectile's zero to instantly hundreds of FPS produced in a rifle delivers actual and felt recoil to the shoulder, the force exists with the revolver too which is delivered to the hands and arms.

Everyone’s hands shake a little. Over time (and with practice) I have learned what is my own wobble zone and you can also. If I am using good trigger control (and have the mental focus) I can stack shots on a pistol bullseye at 25 yards. A misalignment of the sights by a fraction of an inch (like the rifle's, but shorter) translates to a greater error downrange. We just learn to accept our own wobble zone for what it is.


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[Rex Goliath]

Selmerfan, this is an excerpt which is useful...
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Sight alignment is far more important to making good hits on target than sight picture. Why? Because when we are shooting, we have a natural “wobble zone” – or the tracking of your sights back and forth across your target. When you’re shooting a red dot, prone with a rifle from 100 yards, you may not notice it, but if you put a high magnification scope on your rifle, you will see it moving a little bit as long as you are attached to the rifle. Your heartbeat and the blood moving through your body will cause very small movements even in the most stable positions. Of course with the pistol, wobble it is much more noticeable especially when shooting one-handed. By relaxing and building a stable position we can minimize our “wobble zone,” but at the end of the day, we cannot completely eliminate it. We have to accept and learn to ignore it.

As your gun “wobbles” your sights are still aligned, even if it doesn’t always appear that way to your eye. Take your unloaded gun, and pick a spot on the wall. Line up your sights. Now keep your gun totally steady and in place, shift your head a few inches to the side. If you fired now, would you still hit your target? Of course, because your gun is still pointed on target even though your head moved. Wobble is the same thing, but reversed – your head is staying still, but your gun is moving a little. The sights are still in alignment and even though the entire gun is moving a fraction of an inch, the front sight and rear sight are moving together. It’s kind of an optical illusion – the sights may not be in line with your eye at all times when the gun is wobbling, but they are in line with each other and with the target.
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