Revolver trigger stops

[8shot]

What's your personnel preference for revolver double action trigger stops. I don't shoot single action and been using stops inside the rebound slide. (easiest with MIM triggers)

Looking at S&W revolver MIM triggers there appears to be a provision in the casting rear that would accept a drilled/tapped trigger stop.

Back in my old PPC days, we would just super glue a pencil eraser on the back of the trigger and work it down to get that perfect release/stop.

Was thinking that if I could locate some tiny rubber pellets I could put one inside the rebound slide behind the internal stop to break the release especially at 50 yards.?

 

[Protocall_Design]

I drill the middle of the square on the back of the trigger with an 1/8" solid carbide drill bit. I use the 2 straight flute kind. You don't have to anneal the trigger with those drills, but need to be careful not to drill through to the front.

Then I use a piece of 1/8" drill rod, cut long enough for the depth of the hole and the length of the stop, + a little extra. I put this cut off piece in the drill press and file the bottom end with a bevel and the top end to a bullet shape. Then secure the part in the hole in the trigger with some Loctite. Then file to the desired length, checking often to get it with just a tiny bit of overtravel after trigger release.

If you want the same stop to work for single and double action, you can fit the double action first, then stone the single action sear on the trigger shorter until it works too.

 

[robertrwalsh]

I have never seen the utility in a trigger stop on a revolver unless it has a ton of overtravel. Perhaps I am insufficiently critical.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I have never seen the utility in a trigger stop on a revolver unless it has a ton of overtravel. Perhaps I am insufficiently critical.

Included in the meaning of that sentence is "perhaps not."

 

[Protocall_Design]

Different people have different needs and wants. For casual plinking or target shooting, they are not needed. In matches and competitions where one is trying to get the most possible points, I find them helpful. Maybe I'm just not up to the same skill level as some of our other members yet.

 

[8shot]

Different people have different needs and wants. For casual plinking or target shooting, they are not needed. In matches and competitions where one is trying to get the most possible points, I find them helpful. Maybe I'm just not up to the same skill level as some of our other members yet.

I'm with you on this from experience. Firing at 50 yards double action my red dot doesn't move at all, without the stop the dot jerks. Result is regular 1-1/2" groups.

Located some "old" Maryland Gun Works 8-36 rubber tipped stops that we used on our PPC revolvers. Wouldn't work on the MIM trigger. Considering trying a small piece of rubber inside the rebound slide to cushion the fall.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I don't like the set screw method because of the ragged threaded hole in the front of the trigger. A hole in the trigger wears on the trigger finger and makes it sore. The rubber in the rebound slide sounds interesting. Let us know how that works out.

 

[8shot]

I don't like the set screw method because of the ragged threaded hole in the front of the trigger. A hole in the trigger wears on the trigger finger and makes it sore. The rubber in the rebound slide sounds interesting. Let us know how that works out.

10-4...now if I could locate some "rubber shot". Might just grab a neoprene "O" ring and cut out a section.

Have had great results so far with just fitting rod material inside the rebound slide spring. Simple process that tends to be more permanent.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Look on McMaster-Carr for #9679k14.

 

[8shot]

Look on McMaster-Carr for #9679k14.

Got it! Thanks

 

[Nemo288]

The "eraser/small piece of rubber" trigger stop has worked for me when I felt I needed one.
The actual pencil eraser on the Redhawk has lasted for decades.
I forget what kind of glue I used it's that old.
This method has the advantage of being removable with no holes in the revolver.
I also like the softer landing of the trigger as opposed to the sudden stop of a metal screw or post.
The big Dan Wesson 445 came with a trigger stop screw mounted in the frame.

 

[Hair Trigger]

What's your personnel preference for revolver double action trigger stops.

Back in my old PPC days, we would just super glue a pencil eraser on the back of the trigger and work it down to get that perfect release/stop.

I'm with you on this from experience. Firing at 50 yards double action my red dot doesn't move at all, without the stop the dot jerks. Result is regular 1-1/2" groups.

I remember those eraser stops well, used them myself. They worked really well, you could fine tune them really nicely. However, I was using factory sights, not an optic back in the 1970's.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I think the rubber cord in the rebound spring has possibilities. I'm going to try it myself. Thanks for giving us the idea, 8 shot. I should have figured that one out 30 years ago.

 

[steelslaver]

The 9679k14 is 1/4 diameter. I think thats to big. Need to measure the ID of a recoil spring

I really like the idea

 

[Protocall_Design]

It's 3mm. A nice slip fit in a recoil spring.

 

[steelslaver]

I am going to order some and try it out.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Update on the rubber cord project. I got the 3mm cord and discovered that it is over the nominal size by a few thou., which makes it too tight of a fit. Next, I will try some 3/32 cord, McMaster.com part # 9407K11. We will see how that goes.

 

[8shot]

Update on the rubber cord project. I got the 3mm cord and discovered that it is over the nominal size by a few thou., which makes it too tight of a fit. Next, I will try some 3/32 cord, McMaster.com part # 9407K11. We will see how that goes.

Are you still using the metal stop inside the rebound spring shortened to accommodate the cord?

 

[Protocall_Design]

No. The cord by itself is the trigger stop with nothing else. It will (theoretically) be able to compress some by being long, and bring the trigger to a relatively gradual stop. I will know more after I get the new cord and have time to play with it some.

 

[8shot]

No. The cord by itself is the trigger stop with nothing else. It will (theoretically) be able to compress some by being long, and bring the trigger to a relatively gradual stop. I will know more after I get the new cord and have time to play with it some.

OK my original thought was to locate some round rubber pellets, drop one in the rebound slide and shorten the metal stop.