Rotary case tumbler

38SPL HV

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I understand that rotary tumblers are easier to use and can use stainless steel "pins" or liquid solutions to clean cases, and without the harmful dust and mess associated with vibratory tumblers.

Do you have any recommendations for a decent rotary tumbler?

Also, what cleaning mediums do you use in yours?

Other tips are also appreciated.

Thank you all!
 
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I've got a Lyman Cyclone and love it. Thumbler's Tumblers get rave reviews too. I picked mine up cheap, so that was the deciding factor. I'll never go back to dry tumbling only, but I do still use it for tumbling finished bullets sometimes. I decap before tumbling and use water, dawn detergent, and a little bit of Lemi-shine. Brass comes out looking brand new.
 

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I just got the Frankford Arsenal tumbler. I filled it to the brim with 9mm deprimed cases. In less than 3 hours I had the cleanest brass I've ever seen! I did some 223 & 38 spl too. All are like new. I use stainless steel pins (5#), Turtlewax Zip car wash & LemiShine. The Zip car wash w/wax helps prevent any sticking issues.

I wouldn't say it's easier because your dealing with tiny pins and dirty water. One you get a system down to deal with the pins and water it's routine.

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Living the Tech Life
 
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I currently use a Thumbler's Tumbler, with SS pins, and hot soapy water with a 1/4 tsp of Lemi-shine per batch. You clean 2 pounds of brass casings, so the number get smaller as the cases get bigger! It takes about 10 to 15 minutes per batch of set up and separating (combined time) and 1 hour of tumbling cases. (2 hours for cases stained with Black Powder)

Personally I size and deprime rifle cases before cleaning, that leaves the primer pockets and the interior, as well as the exterior brand new clean!

Handgun brass usually gets a cleaning unsized. Sometimes every other loading..

The liquids from wet tumbling are poured down the toilet as opposed to down the sink drain. (the pins are rinsed at least twice every batch. dirty or stained pins don't clean well!- hard learned lesson.) The cleaning water starts as hot as I can stand and after 1 hour, it is still prey warm so aside from being filthy (BLACK) it hurts to be sloppy. The liquid when done is sometimes thick like paint other times water thin, but will stain clothing or towels it gets splashed on, Always rinse all containers the liquid has come in contact with while still wet, and clean up is easy.

Cases need to dry before reloading... how long? If you dump them in a bucket, they could be wet inside 3 weeks later. Just left laying flat, 2 days is usually good. A couple hours in a heated environment does great, I have used a warm oven, sitting on hot blacktop driveway in summer and sitting on hot wood stove in winter, all were done at 2 hours.

From 1979 to 1984 I had a large home made dry tumbler and used walnut shell media. From 1984 to 2011 I used vibratory cleaners and burnt up 8 of them ( I replace motors on several of those also). From 2011 to now I'm on my first Thumbler's Tumbler, the only replacement was a $5 drive belt (giant O-ring) last summer.

After 8 years, I have lost a few pins in the carpet and down the drain, but way less than 1/2 ounce.

I have cleaned straight walled cases from 32ACP to 458 Win Mag and bottle necked from 22 Hornet to 375 H&H. In this aspect: SIZE DOES NOT MATTER.

I hope this extra information fills in some of the gaps not talked about, and you choose wet pin tumbling. It has been the most expensive at start up but least expensive overall that I have used.

Ivan
 
I have a Frankford Arsenal and it works well. Right now Cabela's has the FA stuff on sale 20 percent off. The Lyman Is just kike the FA tumblerr. I have dry tumblers too. Doing a batch of coated 24 calibers bullets to clean 'em off right now. A fellow gave me 7000 coated bullets and I'll bet the wet tumbler would work better and quicker
 
I bought the complete setup from Frankford Arsenal. Including case/pin separator, pins, cleaning solution, case dryer and of course the rotary tumbler itself. Couldn't be happier!! Cost for all was about $167.
No more "dusty" cases or media stuck in bottle neck cases. I remove the primers prior to cleaning and it gets the carbon out of there too. Cases look factory new. All tarnish is removed from fired cases picked up at range. Highly recommend!!
 
I've started with Thumler's tumbler and few belts later switched to FA tumbler - couldn't be happier. TT was usually started to struggle with a little over 300 9mm cases, with FA I've loaded 600 10mm and it didn't notice it, plus FA has built in timer for up to 3 hrs.


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If you're looking for cheap, check garage sales and thrift shops for a rock tumbler. I bought one 30 years ago for $15.00, and it's still working fine.
 
I have a Lortone QT-12 that I bought in the 80's. I've used it to dry tumble brass. The only part I've replaced is the drive belt. It is perfectly suited for wet tumbling, too. It is built for rock polishing and nearly continuous use, so will obviously last a long time as a brass tumbler. It is fairly quiet. The average current prices seem to be somewhat less than $250.00. https://www.ebay.com/i/171182282047...MI96yW-LKG6AIViobACh31RQS4EAQYBCABEgLHE_D_BwE
 
I have a Thumblers Tumbler since 1977. Only changed one belt. Got that one from a vacuum cleaner shop and it's still running. I use a big Dillon vibrator also, but not so much as I no longer shoot IPSC.
 
I bought the RCBS rotary model. I'm very happy with it. Buy the Frankford Arsenal magnet and the Lyman separator pans. These accessories make it very easy to use.
 
I bought a Thumbler's Tumbler more than 40 years ago. At that time it was used mostly by lapidary enthusiasts.
Put a new motor on it a couple years back. It's got a lot of use.
I tumble dry.
 
Cleaning with the wet tumbling gets brass clean as new but if you use it for pistol brass you can bet the brass will drag going through the carbide resize die and will require a light lubing. Otherwise you will end up with galling leaving a brass fouling on the carbide ring. Rifle brass it does not matter because it has to be lubed to be resized then removed depending on what lube you use.
When I use my buddies FA tumbler, after filling the tumbler a couple times to rinse things off I then dump the brass and pins into my Dillion media separator with the tub full of water and spin for a couple minutes. The pins work their way out of the case while they are submerged and fall to the bottom of the tub. Just watch for pins falling to the bottom, when you don't see anymore pins give it a few more turns and should be good to go. The past few times I have done this I have not found any pins left in a case. Then it is just a matter of getting them dry.
 
I made up a box about 4 inches high 10 wide and 20 long on the sides with some screening in the bottom I dump my cases in it and put two bricks in the bed of the pickup and put that box on the bricks. Sunny day even in the winter the brass dries PDQ. Just go by and give it a shake 2 or 3 times and voila
 
Does this surgically clean brass shoot smaller groups than run of the mill brass with a dirty interior and encrusted primer pockets?

Sure it does...and if it doesn't... it looks really good not doing it:D

As has been said before pistol brass can be a bit sticky...even in carbide dies. It is somewhat redundant but I give my handgun brass a light spritz of lube anyway whether super clean or not. Makes for a very smooth run through the dies and smoother press operation specially when using the progressive presses
 
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Sure it does...and if it doesn't... it looks really good not doing it:D

As has been said before pistol brass can be a bit sticky...even in carbide dies. It is somewhat redundant but I give my handgun brass a light spritz of lube anyway whether super clean or not. Makes for a very smooth run through the dies and smoother press operation specially when using the progressive presses




The "squeaky clean, surgical brass" actually sticks more so than regularly cleaned brass, More so in longer cases.


I just dry tumble brass but also give everything a spritz with diluted water bass lube. I don't remove it wither.
 
Bought a Harbor Freight dual drum tumbler a year or two ago and it works perfectly. $30 as I recall and I think the pins were like $15. A bit of dawn dishwashing liquid and a little lemishine and the brass looks brand new. I won't go back to a vibratory dry cleaner.
 
Pay Pal got me a refund and I'm cleaning cases in the old Harbor Freight vibrator thing again. Sigh!
 
I have the Frankford arsenal unit and absolutely love it. The dry tumbling used to really irritate my sinuses.

If I may make a recommendation, and if your Mrs. will let you, get yourself a cheap baking dish from good will to dry your brass in. 45 minutes in the oven at 250 will make sure its bone dry. Food dehydrators also work well.
 
I've been using the same Thumlers Tumbler model B some 35 years. It makes a grating sound irritates some but reminds me of the most joyous hobby allowed to free men. It was from Tru-Square Metal Products, Auburn, Wa.
 
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I owned an RCBS rotary tumbler long before the SS pin cleaning method became the thing. That machine is too expensive now, it is a good machine if you can afford it.
I use low sudsing Cascade dishwasher machine detergent in this tumbler because the RCBS tumbler has a small vent hole in the lid. High sudsing detergents like the automotive wash and wax will cause suds to ooze out the hole.
I still use the Simoniz wash and wax I swirl 50 cases at a time in a 2 pound margarine tub in a litre of water The waxed cases seem to greatly reduce the amount of brass that gets bonded to the nose of the expander die plug.
A Lyman case separator fits perfectly into a home depot 2.5 gal bucket.
I punched 8 half inch drain holes in the side of the side of the bucket just below the sieve. This lets rinse water flow out while the pins get sluiced through the sieve to fall to the bottom.
I dry the case on a couple of cheap Walmart grade cotton hand towels over night, or in a warm oven on a large banking pan.
I dry the SS pins so they don't grow a mold or get stinky. I dump the SS pin on one end of a large baking pan. Elevate that end so all the water flows out of the pile of pins an down to the low end of the pan.
Sponge out the water, spread out the pins across the pan and bake them in the oven till there dry. A paper cup with the rolled rim cut off makes a great scoop to get the pins off the baking pan and into their plastic storage jar, a magnet collects the stragglers.

I used to use TSP mixed with the detergent but I found it made the wash water too slick and oily feeling. I think the slickness interfered with the pins ability to scour the brass and extended the time spent in the tumbler.

Tumbling does peen the case mouths a little bit. I check the degree of peening and run a LEE de-burring tool on the case mouth to clean up peening I can feel or see with a magnifying glass.
I like the LEE de-burring tool because it not an aggressive cutter.
 
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