Ruger Security Six

The spring that holds the trigger guard in is very stout and it’s hard to get leverage on it. I rarely take mine apart.

No real need to ordinarily, but on a used gun, I always do. I've been shocked at what I have seen. Even if it's clean it's probably bone dry. The spring is stout but if you use a wide punch on it and just press down it will compress and allow you to take the trigger guard out.
 
I've always loved the Ruger Security Six, outstanding revolvers! I've had quite a number of 4" barreled ones over the years, only one 6". I still have a 2 1/2" that was made in 1981.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php

I just bought one like this NIB unfired. It’s so cool to have all the original goodies with it. Literally a Time Machine back to 1983
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4931.jpg
    IMG_4931.jpg
    86.1 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_4909.jpg
    IMG_4909.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 12
I have three Ruger Six series; two PPC conversions and one stock stainless 2 3/4" bbl Security Six. As I have had all three from new, I have never experienced anything stuck. But that spring is strong.

At one time Ruger made a tool for removing the trigger group, but that is no longer being made.

Some years ago I came up with what has, for me, become the ideal removal tool. Go to your local hardware store and buy a set of three nail sets (which is how they are usually sold). Get the kind that have a plastic sleeve over the upper part of the shaft (Stanley makes theirs this way IIRC).

What you want is as much tip contact as possible against the plunger button in its narrow channel. One of the sets will have a tip size ideally sized for this purpose. Once the tip is seated it is very simple to push the top of the nail set back against the revolver hammer slot to apply the leverage you need against the plunger tip. The plastic sleeve prevents any abrasion of the hammer slot.

In your case, I would suggest starting with a penetrant. Place the revolver in such a vertical position that the liquid is facing down to the plunger hole so it can rest against where the button goes into the frame, and thus, hopefully penetrate. To be on the safe side, give this 24 hours, then try to push in the button using the nail set braced against the rear of the inside of the grip. The leverage will come from the fulcrum of the nail set against the interior of the grip frame.

I have two handgun maintenance (including cleaning) kits - one in my gun box that goes to the range, and one in the cleaning cabinet that stays there. Each has an appropriately sized nail set within it for this purpose.
This way I never have a situation where I don't have this little tool available.
 
Last edited:
No real need to ordinarily, but on a used gun, I always do. I've been shocked at what I have seen. Even if it's clean it's probably bone dry. The spring is stout but if you use a wide punch on it and just press down it will compress and allow you to take the trigger guard out.

That's what I use. If memory serves the instructions suggested using the hammer strut or some silly idea like that.
 
Great find at an excellent price! For comparison's sake, I picked up this Bicentennial Police Service Six after a couple of bids for a hair over $600 on GunBroker very recently. Included its box and papers. There's a slight ding on the frame below the ejector rod, and the cylinder went a little plum compared to the rest of the bluing, but all in all I'm quite pleased. I'd give quite a bit for Ruger to put the Six-series DA revolvers back into production, and will probably spend an exorbitant amount if one of these in this configuration (pre-billboard rollmark, blue, etc) appears in NOS condition.

qo7wzgo0ugdd1.jpg

qo7wzgo0ugdd1.jpg
mlgnTaA.jpg
 
Last edited:
kbm6893,

My apologies for poaching on your advice. I had only partially read this thread before cutting directly to the ideal solution, and had not gotten down to your post. That buck stops with me.

I am now left with how to deal, somehow, with the loss of smugness I had felt as being the only human being to have come across this ideal solution.

Smugness is fleeting.

That buck stops with me.
 
Last edited:
The first firearm I ever acquired in 1979 was a 4 inch SS Security Six. I lusted after the S&W M66 but they were in extremely short supply and usually only found at suggested retail + a premium so I "settled" on the Ruger. I was preparing to enter the LE field and the agency I intended to join required the officer to provide their own firearm and the Ruger & Smith were the 2 most common firearms seen with a few Colt Pythons around. Unfortunately that agency put a freeze on hiring just as I was getting married and preparing to finish my college degree work. I still have that revolver and even managed to find a 2 3/4 inch SS version to add to the vault/collection some years later. Great guns and I also lament Ruger choosing to "upgrade" to the GP100 series, just to compete with S&W new M686 revolvers.
 

Attachments

  • Ruger SS.jpg
    Ruger SS.jpg
    118.4 KB · Views: 26
Last edited:
That's what I use. If memory serves the instructions suggested using the hammer strut or some silly idea like that.

They did advise using the hammer strut. Stupid for sure. You bend that the gun is inoperable. I think they did that when they went in the whole “you can take this gun down with just a dime” campaign. The dime was used for the screw in the grip and the strut pushes in the pin. 35 years of taking guns down and I was never without the proper tools.
 
kbm6893,

My apologies for poaching on your advice. I had only partially read this thread before cutting directly to the ideal solution, and had not gotten down to your post. That buck stops with me.

I am now left with how to deal, somehow, with the loss of smugness I had felt as being the only human being to have come across this ideal solution.

Smugness is fleeting.

That buck stops with me.

No need to apologize and no offense taken. Lots of good advice on this forum. The more, the better!

And the use of a penetrant like Kroil is good advice. I’ve only had to use that once or twice. The OP’s gun look very clean. I bet a stout push with the punch gets it out, but the oil surely can’t hurt.

Once it’s all apart I would soak it in ATF and then thoroughly clean it out. I bought an NYPD Service Six a few years ago. Gun was FILTHY. Inside and out. A full tear down and a couple of days in ATF and it’s back to perfect operation condition.
 
Last edited:
These are very cool high quality guns and I think they are cooler than a model 19/66 because of the square butt with adj sights and a 1/4” longer bbl. I have a speed-six and it is a round butt 2-3/4” variety, but I also like it better than the s&w counterpart. Congrats

Not to mention that these didn't have widespread, noteworthy occurrences of barrel cracking with hot magnum loads like the magnum K-frames did. (To my knowledge.)
 
I have never been a big fan of K frame Smiths. More on that anon. Despite that, and assuming S&W was the ideal choice for a PPC gun, I wanted a stainless K frame as the basis for my match gun.

The problem was there were none to be had. I came across the Ruger six series and asked my gunsmith if he could build a gun based on the Ruger and he said he could. That is how I got my first Ruger PPC revolver.

Prior to that my match revolver was a stock Smith model 19. I had zero issues with this revolver. This was used as a match revolver only. During this period it was not lost on me that at all PPC matches, S&W had a counter where two of their 'smiths would work on competitor's revolvers. They always had a line. Not overly confidence inspiring.

Back to the anon part. During part of this period my department switched from personally owned revolvers to mandatory carry 4"bbl model 66s. These experienced countless problems. When I went through the two week rangemaster course, by the time I finished I was on my third model 66.

But once I had a more experienced gunsmith further tune the action of my Ruger, it was just right. As long as I stayed away from loosening the adjustable main spring too much I had zero problems.

One time I and another shooting team member were out at the range practicing. He was an outstanding shot, always in the upper range of Calif Governor's 20 competitors. My wife and our German Shepherd (who was raised with guns and loved range trips) were also there.

As we were shooting, my buddy's revolver, built up on a Smith model 14, seized up. He took it apart and found that one of the frame mounted pins had broken. It was out of action until he could get it to a gunsmith. This was his only PPC revolver. He had no back up.

This was not lost on my bride. As we were driving home she told me I needed to have a back up revolver so as never to find myself in that situation. I went with another Ruger. I was comfortable and confident with my now perfected Ruger, and I wanted the identical feel.

When I got the new Ruger, I took it out and sighted it in, then set it aside just in case.

I had greatly underestimated Ruger toughness. 'Just in case' never came, all the way to when I retired from competition. That then-new PPC revolver still is.

But this is a Smith & Wesson forum, so on to that.

When Smith & Wesson brought out the L frames I was smitten. It just seemed to be the ideal size and weight to be tougher than the K frames and with muzzle heavy balance and stability.

Within the first year Bill Davis came to us with a great offer; he would trade 4" 686s straight across for our 4" 66s, and we only pay sales tax. I jumped on that for my patrol division. When we got rid of the 66s, we got rid of all the issues. The 686s served us extremely well until we transitioned to semi-autos (Glock).

I so like my 6" L frame, that I was able to get with the tall front sight for a neck hold for the 50 yard line, that I had it customized for competition use. Unfortunately various professional obligations spelled the end of enough time for matches, so it never did get tested in the heat of competition.

But it is, to me, the perfect PPC match revolver. And it had proven to be the ideal duty revolver.

For a 38/357 revolver I consider the L frames to be S&W's high water mark.

Even including my 27-2, I still consider the L frames to be perfection.
 
Last edited:
I gotta agree with RetCapt, the L-frame is perfection when it comes to duty sized 357 Magnum revolvers made by S&W. The L-frame did solve the shortcomings of the 357 Magnum K-frame.
 
I would not bother with the soak. These trigger groups are a tight fit as you can see by the lack of a gap where it meets up with the frame. If you can't move the plunger, you may need to spay something in there to get it loosened up, but I am guessing it is just bound from years of sitting and may have some gummed up oil keeping it from plunging in and out.

Once you get this plunger loose, while holding/pushing it in---pull down on the rear of the trigger guard ring. It should open right up.

One more word of caution to pay attention to. When you go to snap the trigger group back into place, hook the front tab into place then rock the back upward until it snaps into place. HERE IS THE CAUTION PART---make certain that you don't have any skin between the frame and the trigger group. I am talking about finger skin or thumb webbing. When it snaps into place and you have skin caught in between, not only will you squeal and dance but you will then remember how tough it was to depress the plunger and pull down on the trigger group----and that was using both hands. About the same time you remember this, will be about the same time you realize that you are home alone, or that your wife will be absolutely no help in getting the gun to release you.

Remember you read it here first and have been warned.
 
Last edited:
I would not bother with the soak. These trigger groups are a tight fit as you can see by the lack of a gap where it meets up with the frame. If you can't move the plunger, you may need to spay something in there to get it loosened up, but I am guessing it is just bound from years of sitting and may have some gummed up oil keeping it from plunging in and out.

Once you get this plunger loose, while holding/pushing it in---pull down on the rear of the trigger guard ring. It should open right up.

One more word of caution to pay attention to. When you go to snap the trigger group back into place, hook the front tab into place then rock the back upward until it snaps into place. HERE IS THE CAUTION PART---make certain that you don't have any skin between the frame and the trigger group. I am talking about finger skin or thumb webbing. When it snaps into place and you have skin caught in between, not only will you squeal and dance but you will then remember how tough it was to depress the plunger and pull down on the trigger group----and that was using both hands. About the same time you remember this, will be about the same time you realize that you are home alone, or that your wife will be absolutely no help in getting the gun to release you.

Remember you read it here first and have been warned.

This sounds like the voice of experience.
 
I would not bother with the soak. These trigger groups are a tight fit as you can see by the lack of a gap where it meets up with the frame. If you can't move the plunger, you may need to spay something in there to get it loosened up, but I am guessing it is just bound from years of sitting and may have some gummed up oil keeping it from plunging in and out.

Once you get this plunger loose, while holding/pushing it in---pull down on the rear of the trigger guard ring. It should open right up.

One more word of caution to pay attention to. When you go to snap the trigger group back into place, hook the front tab into place then rock the back upward until it snaps into place. HERE IS THE CAUTION PART---make certain that you don't have any skin between the frame and the trigger group. I am talking about finger skin or thumb webbing. When it snaps into place and you have skin caught in between, not only will you squeal and dance but you will then remember how tough it was to depress the plunger and pull down on the trigger group----and that was using both hands. About the same time you remember this, will be about the same time you realize that you are home alone, or that your wife will be absolutely no help in getting the gun to release you.

Remember you read it here first and have been warned.


I have always heard that a tool does not truly belong to you until it bites you. :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top