Rust removal

billsfa

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I have a model 36 (1968, verified by letter) that was a pass down to me. I've been carrying it in an open top Don Hume holster. With the hot summer this year excessive sweat has caused visible rust on the frame just above the left grip and in front of the cylinder latch.What is the safest way to remove this rust without hurting the bluing? Is there a good way to prevent future rust? Can I remove the cylinder latch to get at that rust without causing problems? Yes, I am new.
 
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I'm not an expert but IMO and at this point, if rust is only surface rust, it needs to come off ASAP. Try wiping with soft rag preferably lightly oil soaked. It will be a constant effort to keep it off or to a minimum anyway, especially without a repair or refinish.
There are numerous anti-corrosion products that can be used. Some will recommend a paste wax like Johnsons' or Renaissance.
The latch knob is an easy removal with proper fitting screwdriver and that's what I'd do to remove dirt, grime, rust, etc. Good luck.
ETA:
kraynky mentioned it and I will re-iterate; remove and check under grips, especially rubber grips, which seem worse for holding moisture than wood, etc.
 
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That happened to me some 25 years ago, on the same model. Remove the grips (where you'll likely find more new rust, and clean with a copper chore boy pad or a penny dated 1980 or earlier (all copper). You're going to lose the bluing where the rust got a hold on the steel. It"s too late to do anything but remove it and keep it waxed. After messing up my first carry gun with sweat, I started carrying nickel or stainless steel guns. Plastic guns still have steel, just look for high corrosive resistance coatings, and keep them waxed. Don't forget, sweat gets on the inside too. Stainless needs wax too, but is my choice for IWB carry in hot weather.
 
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Try using Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover.
It has an extremely fine polishing compound in the liquid it will remove fine rust without removing the underlying blue. 0000 steel wool will remove bluing so be really careful with it.
The model 58 in my avatar was the sidearm a motorcycle officer carried for years. It was so freckled and covered with fine rust I thought the finish was a lost cause but the Turtle wax Polish and rust remover removed all the rust and left what bluing remained . I worked slow and took my time but when completed and then waxed the old girl looked good , considering the hard life she had led.
Gary
 
A tried and true method for rust freckles is using a pencil, not the eraser, the lead point, using it like a chisel bear down and and the rust will just go away wipe off with a soft cloth the apply some paste wax afterwards.

terry
 
The conventional method is to use the finest 100% Copper or Brass Wool and oil. Go lightly and you will be able to remove the rust without hurting the Bluing. The damage from the rust will remain as a dark spot but will be barely visible unless purposely looking for it. Keep the gun treated with a light coat of oil such as Rig #2 or Remoil that will evaporate and leave protection behind.

NOTE: While most here will say that using 0000 steel wool is "verboten" I have used it many times with excellent results - just make SURE all traces of the steel are gone after cleaning - otherwise it could cause rust to re-appear. Personally I have never had any issues, but you are safer with the Copper or Bronze obviously.
 
WISH I SAW THIS THREAD SOONER.

I've been using goodyears for app 8 years now due to hand issues, NEVER a problem with app 5 revo's. I changed from Hogue to pachy's on my 10-6 app 3 months ago & decided to remove them for a look-see. :eek: 2 pitted/rusty spots below the S&W emblem at about 7 & 8 oclock. The problem was NOT THE RUBBER, but the lack of it! That area of the inside of the grip, the rubber is worn away leaving metal to metal contact & that is where the problems are. Bronze wool, PB blaster, Q-tips, ballistol, elbow grease & time are showing slow improvements FOR NOW. Pachmayr will get an ear/e-mail full, for all the good that will do. I DO prefer the pachy's firmness & window to see the ser #. THIS PAIR are getting **** canned.
 
I use Dextron II ATF and fine bronze steel wool to remove surface rust. Rub very gently. If there is rusty scale, I use a pre-1982 copper penny to scrape the rust off. Hornady Hot Shot is a good rust preventive to follow up with.
 
I've use the 0000 steel wool with lots of brakefree many times without hurting the bluing any worse that it was. Go easy on the pressure and be almost drippy with the oil. It slides over the bluing and catches on the rust. But be on the safe side and follow the other's advice and methods with the bronze wool.
 
I've use the 0000 steel wool with lots of brakefree many times without hurting the bluing any worse that it was. Go easy on the pressure and be almost drippy with the oil. It slides over the bluing and catches on the rust.

This, except I use WD-40.

Done it this way for years, including as a professional 'smith in Miami, where sweat-induced rust is a way of life.
 
The brand of oil you use means nothing as it serves as a lubricant only. I suspect even olive oil will work if you are an aficionado of of Italian cuisine. :)
 
The brand of oil you use means nothing as it serves as a lubricant only. I suspect even olive oil will work if you are an aficionado of of Italian cuisine. :)
Could be but I bought a gallon jug of Breakfree over 25 years ago and I still have a good quart left so that's what I've been using. The old Breakfree has a pleasant aroma the new stuff lacks.
 
Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover....it works !
The stuff even has the words "rust remover" in the name.
Gary
 

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