Rust

NukeSubVet

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Location
Minnesota
Hello,

I'm new (first post), and I apologize if this subject has
been beaten into the ground. I've only been carrying for about
5 months now.

I started with a Model 1911A1 (blued), and then switched to
a M-43 Firestar (blued).

I'm having a problem with rust (especially on the magazines). I use Breakfree for lubrication.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you all in advance, Mike.
 
Register to hide this ad
There are much better lubricants and preservatives than Break Free. IMO transmission fluid or motor oil would be better. Barb's reccommendation on wax is good however I find that Johnson's Paste Wax does a fine job for little money. A daily wipe down with an oily cloth and a weekly cleaning and lube will take care of the rust and keep the dirt and fungus out. A gun in daily use requires maintenance.
 
Silicone spay... Clean the gun well with WD40. It is a good rust stopper but will stain your cloths and soften your holster. Wipe off all the WD from the outside of the gun and spay down the exterior and magazines with silicone spray. Have been using this combination for 20+ years with no rust on my blue carry guns.

Bob
 
I'm personally not a fan of WD40 as a gun-cleaner or preservative. I used it back in the '70s and it left a varnish-like residue on internal parts where it would seep. I do use BreakFree with good results, and lately have been liking Kroil a lot.

You have a lot of high humidity in Minnesota, especially in the summer. For CCW I'd prefer a stainless-steel or alloy gun of some kind, but even then I'd submit that daily maintenance is required. The wax on the magazines is a good idea, and I'd advise taking wiping the surfaces of the gun down with Kroil every day, and tearing it down and cleaning the innards at least once every week, maybe more often than that.
 
WD-40 is a definite NO-NO on firearms to be carried for self defense. WD-40 is a penetrant and has been shown under controlled test conditions to penetrate the primer pockets, resulting in DEAD primers when exposed to small amounts of WD-40 for less than a week.

Daily maintenance is the key. The weapon needs to be wiped down after each day's use. Also, never store a handgun in a leather holster. All leather items will attract and retain moisture (from the atmosphere, from the user's body, etc). Store leather holsters separately, and in an area with good air flow to permit residual moisture to evaporate away.

When a little surface corrosion is found that can be quickly and easily removed with 0000-grade steel wool, which will not harm blued or plated gun surfaces at all.

For lubrication and corrosion protection just about any light oil of good quality will work just fine. Good old "3-in-1" oil is great. Personally, I picked up a couple of quart cans of the old military LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) about 20 years ago for about $1 per quart, and I haven't finished using up the first quart yet.

Keep it clean and keep it wiped down with an oily rag daily.

Best regards.
 
The Firestars are quite rust-prone, with their somewhat porous, black oxide finish. I mostly carry stainless or hard-chromed guns, so I don't have many rust problems, but in years past, that was not always true. Earlier formulations of Break Free worked well as a rust preventative, if used properly. It was necessary to coat all parts of the gun well and let them sit for a couple of hours, then wipe off the excess. I found that I never had rust problems if I did that every couple weeks, even on blued guns that I carried and sweated on a lot. I'm not sure what they've changed, but the Break Free I've gotten for the past few years is different, and while it seems to be a little better cleaner, I don't think it prevents rust as well as before.

A.G. Russell Knives sells a product called "Rust Free" for use on knives, and I've had wonderful results with it on guns, as well. Sentry Solutions "Tuf-Glide", sold by Brownell's, also works very well, and it leaves a dry surface.
 
When a little surface corrosion is found that can be quickly and easily removed with 0000-grade steel wool, which will not harm blued or plated gun surfaces at all.
Keep in mind that the use of steel wool on a stainless gun will inbed particles of carbon steel into the stainless steel's pores. The stainless steel will then be prone to rust. Therefore never use steel wool on a stainless gun.
For lubrication and corrosion protection just about any light oil of good quality will work just fine. Good old "3-in-1" oil is great. Personally, I picked up a couple of quart cans of the old military LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) about 20 years ago for about $1 per quart, and I haven't finished using up the first quart yet.
On his website, revolversmith Grant Cunningham recommends dexron type automatic transmission fluid as a general purpose gun oil. I bought a quart about two years ago for, IIRC, $2.50. It is only half gone and has proven to be as good or better than any gun oil I have ever used.
 
Rust; Yea the New Guy.

Thank you all for the information you have posted.

And thank you for not coming right out and saying that "I'm a
idiot" (well I am Polish :confused:). I'm sure many of you guessed that I was not wiping down the gun "every" day,
and was in fact leaving the gun & magazines in leather over night.

I have taken your advice to heart and will try some of the
procucts you have suggested.

Thank you again, Mike.
 
in addition to the gun - what are you carrying it in?? the chemicals used to tan leather are acidic so it may be that your holster has not aged long enough or had the chemicals neutralized
 
I am one of the lucky ones I guess. I don't have to wipe guns off, and can carry and store guns in leather holsters without a bit of rust. I live in a relatively humid area, but the personal composition of my sweat doesn't seem to eat guns. I clean and lube with breakfree, but I am not wed to it and have used other products.

I do prefer stainless/AL/SC/TI for most carry applications to avoid potential problems.
 
Back
Top