S&W 1 1/2 parts source?

PRD1

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Can anyone point me to a source for a replacement part for the 1 1/2 (original or repro)?
I do not have a schematic, but the part I need is a spring-like piece which is attached to the latch/rear sight bar by the screw which passes through the bar - the piece appears to serve as a cam plate/wear surface between the hammer cam and the latch bar itself, and is critical to the function and timing of the revolver, since, without the piece, the latch cannot be lifted out of engagement with the cylinder notch, and the cylinder cannot rotate.
The revolver is in very nice shape, overall, and I'd like to shoot it (I have the proper ammunition), but do not want to attempt to make a replacement without a good example to copy, and the original part is broken and missing the critical segment. I know the #1 part is too small, since I have a working example of that model: is the #2 part interchangeable on the 1 1/2 - I can borrow a good #2 from a trusting friend? And, what is this part properly called?

Thanks;

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
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Welcome to the Forum. First, S&W has two models called Model 1 1/2. Is it a tip-up rimfire or a top-break centerfire? Problem is that it really does not make too much difference as far as parts are concerned. There are just no parts suppliers out there that stock anything to do with either Model 1 1/2. You are dealing with a handgun that is around 140 years old, so the only parts available are from beater guns that have been scavenged. You can look on ebay or look for another poor quality example for parts. Alternatively, if you have access to an unbroken part, a machinist can make a replacement. There are lots of parts suppliers online, but when it comes to a gun that old, it may not be worth looking. You might try a WTB listing in this Forum. Good luck.
 
Hello from SE Arizona. The part you describe is probably the "Split Spring". This spring is unique to the Model 1's, 2's and Model 1 1/2, Second Issue (.32 RF) revolver that I believe you possess. Unfortunately, these split springs are the Achilles Heel of these revolvers and usually are not found through any regular parts sources nor do they interchange between models. They can be made but expect the cost to be exorbitant.
 
Thanks, all...

who have responded. Mike is correct (another Mike in Arizona, it appears!) that the revolver is a 2nd issue. I was pretty sure there would be no easy answer (available spares), and that I would likely have to make the part myself (which I can do), but would very much like to have a correct part to copy, as I'm sure that the proportions and locations of the 'features' of this complex part are critical to its proper function, and I'd rather not have to make a number of them in 'cut-and-try' fashion.
I'll try posting in the 'wanteds' - at least I know what to ask for, now!

Thanks, again;

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
tlay:

If someone has a photo or schematic of this spring, can you post it?

One of the members of another forum was kind enough to provide a drawing and dimensions of the spring - you can find the thread at The Highroad (TheHighroad.org - THR) forums - revolvers. Hope this is helpful.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
Last edited:
Dean:

Thanks very much for the tip! I called early this morning and the part(s) were available - I ordered the item, and should receive it in the next 10 days or so.
My past experience with Numrich/GPC has been mixed, but this looks like a good bet. And it may save me a lot of work.
I'll let you know how it works out.

PRD1 - mhb - Mike

 
I find is always pays to check Numrich...They are having a lot of problems recently with delays, etc, but I have been dealing with since they had a paper catalogue - BEFORE the internet!! - and have been very happy with them in general, especially for very old parts.
 
Follow-up:

I received the part(s) from Numrich, and found them to be exactly as advertised! There was a very little surace rust, which cleaned-up easily, and the parts were in excellent condition.
I could have just installed them as-received, but decided that, since they were blued and the revolver is nickeled, I'd just transplant the spring.
This I did without problems - but determined that the original bolt body had been somewhat 'tweaked', downward at the rear end, either in an attempt to make the part function without the split spring, or to lower the point of impact, I'd guess. Unsure how hard the bolt body was, but having the blued part to fall-back on, I took my courage in hand, clamped the part in the vise, and gently tapped the rear end upward until the contour closely matched the 'new' parts. I then installed the assembly and checked function, which was completely normal.
Sunday, I shot the revolver, with Navy Arms .32 Long RF ammo - 10 shots at 12 yards (both hands) went into a less-than palm-sized group centered about 2" left and 1" high of POA (a 1" black paster).
I was very happy with the performance - the group was much closer to POA than I've had from other early pocket revolvers, and can be brought even closer by judicious tweaking of the front sight blade.
The load was 'snappy' in the small revolver, but pleasant to shoot, and there were no signs of excess pressure or strain on the revolver, which started tight and remained so.
I don't intend to shoot this one much, or carry it for serious purposes, but was suitably impressed by this little Smith as an obviously useful pocket revolver of its era. By modern standards, the sights are nearly imaginary, and subject to considerable glare in direct sunshine, making a good sight picture difficult to obtain, and the spur trigger's pull-off was a bit heavier than I expected from a single-action S&W, but quite manageable.
I like it, and putting it back in working order and actually shooting it was well worth the time and cost.
But I'm glad I didn't actually have to fabricate the split spring!
Thanks again to those who responded to my request for help!

PRD1 - mhb - Mike
 
I truly believe that the "sights" on these older pocket revolvers were never really meant to be target sights. Guns this small were really just made to point at target/person and pull the trigger.

They are truly the original "point and click interface" or perhaps that should be "point and click inyourface" :D
 
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