S&W 14-3 Austin Behlert Range Report W/Questions

Smee78

Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Messages
617
Reaction score
84
Location
SC/TX
OK, So I finally got to put some time in behind the gun and must say that it is a tack driver, but I think I need a stronger spring. I only had 50 rounds of reloads with me, (thats all I had time for) I was using CCI primed 158 grn ammo shooting about 750fps/4.8 Unique and had some light primer strikes. After the light strike I would look at the round and it is getting struck but just not hard enough in DA, I would retry again in SA and the round would go off. I use this round/reload combo in all my other guns and it works like a champ so I know this load it tested and proven. Is there a unwritten rule about using a different primer for these guns or do I need to get a different spring? I know that I'm not changing things after just 50 rounds and I did pull the grips off at the range and put a 1/8 turn on the strain screw to make sure it was tight. I also found that I have to get use to shooting a longer barrel, most of my stuff is 4 5/8 or below :). Any one have any suggestions to look at before I begin trouble shooting? Thanks
 
Register to hide this ad
My 14 digests my CCI primed reloads with no issues. You already addressed the first thing I would have looked into by tightening up the strain screw. There is a possible quick and dirty temporary fix for a weak mainspring if that is you problem. By putting an old spent primer between the strain screw and the main spring you can get just a tiny bit more pressure on the spring. if that makes your issue go away then a replacement spring is in order.

The next thing to look at is the internals, making sure the action is clean and there is no binding or obstruction, check the rebound spring and make sure it has not been cut or otherwise modified.
 
Behlert certainly went for light mainsprings, although I never had any malfunctions with any of the four Behlert-tuned guns I had. He may well have modified the spring rather than the strain screw. I would try factory, or possibly a Wolff calibration pack (set of springs of varying strength) if you want the lightest functional spring.
 
Might give Federal

Howdy,
Federal primers were the rage when most of these guns were set up.
A person could get the nicest trigger pull with the easiest primer to set off.
That was and probably still is Federals.
Best of luck,it sounds like a very nice gun.
Mike
 
Most likely the gun was set up for Federal primers. My worked over 67 is 100% DA on Federals, drops to 98% on CCI's in SA! DA on CCI's results in none to maybe one bang per cylinder.
 
Ditto on Federal primers. I shot PPC back in the day with the lightest action possible and everyone used Federal. CCI had the reputation of being the hardest. I shot cowboy action today and my guns are set up light and I use nothing but Federal.
 
Thanks guys for the info, I will give it a try and see what works,,,,,now if I could just get some time to load up some more ammo and get back to the range :(
 
It was common to cut two coils off the trigger rebound spring back then. After market springs were still in the future. In fact, I have tried aftermarket springs, but prefer cutting two coils off the original. Works better for me.
 
Just picked up some Federal gold match primers and now to find some time to do some reloading.........and so the story goes on.....
 
Well I think the Federal gold match primers were the ticket. Just got back from the range and put 50 rounds down range with no FTF, shot most in DA and a few in SA. Got 50 more rounds waiting to go and if they work out then that will be the primer for this gun. Thanks everyone for the imput and suggestions :)
 
That little tab behind the trigger is an Over-travel Stop. It is standard on the Mod 14 and quite a number of K Frame target model's. It is pretty much discontinued now.
 
Save yourself a little money, and buy the regular Federal primer, the "match" primer cost more, and in my experience does not improve reliability, or practical accuracy either for that matter. Maybe if you were shooting for the smallest possible group using a Ransom rest, you could notice a difference.
 
I will have to give the regular Federal primers a try but the local shop was out and only had the gold in stock in the Federal brand. Luckly as they were only a dollar more that the normal ones and I really wanted to try them out.:)
 
The hammer block is the bar that slides up and down in the sideplate. If you cock the hammer you can see the metal bar running across the frame, below the firing pin bushing.

I only ask because Austin Behlert was an "old school" revolversmith who often tossed the hammer blocks on S&W revolvers when doing the action job. No fault to him, back in those days it wasn't a big deal, before everything became about "CYA" and liability.......He was a well-known pistolsmith who had a shop near where I used to live in NJ, and later retired to near where I live in PA now.Although he was around well before my time, I used to shoot at some of the ranges he mentioned in some of his internet postings. He has since passed away, but was known for doing great work on Colt and S&W revolvers and was known for tuning up guns for PPC and Bullseye shooting.
 
No matter how hard I try, I still get rounds that will not go off on the 1st strike in my Model 10's when I'm using CCI primers. High primers. Maybe 2 or 3 out of 50. Bothers the heck out of me! None of my mainsprings have been tampered with and the strain screw is all the way in. With Winchester primers, it's much better.
Someday, I'll try Federal primers.
 
CCI has , for me, been hit or miss.

I almost blew up my Kahr Arms semi-auto Thompson with CCI .45, had a squib and bulged the barrel. CCI took no responsibility, but Kahr was great, fixing my gun for free. They said they contacted CCI but I never heard any more about it.

I had some CCI Lawman .40 with high primers, a bad lot I guess. Jammed up the Glock 22 I was shooting pretty good. And they market this stuff as LE duty ammo??
 
Back
Top