S&W 360 question
- Thread starter cpthowdy
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Spotteddog
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rburg
Member
As a mind reader, I'm thinking the biggest problem is that I only own one of them. If thats the problem the OP is asking about, yes I have experience with it. I passed on one a couple of years ago, and I shouldn't have.
Great little guns. Weight is just a bit too much.
Not fun to shoot with full house magnum loadings. Pretty darn nasty if you try to fire a full box of that kind of ammo.
Great little guns. Weight is just a bit too much.
My apologies on my error. The original post, which actually had the error description, was replcaced by, rather than added to, by my second post. I did not assume this forum was populated by psychics.
The problem is that when I was at the range, and I was ejecting spent cases, the cyclinder and the rod moved toward the rear of the weapon. It was like the cyl and rod were just pushed into the crane, and could be backed out by nominal manual pressure. It moved back far enough to nick the frame.
Now that I have explained it, does anyone have experience with this?? It doesn't seem normal to me, but I'm new to the 360.
cpthowdy
PS again, my apologies for my posting error.
The problem is that when I was at the range, and I was ejecting spent cases, the cyclinder and the rod moved toward the rear of the weapon. It was like the cyl and rod were just pushed into the crane, and could be backed out by nominal manual pressure. It moved back far enough to nick the frame.
Now that I have explained it, does anyone have experience with this?? It doesn't seem normal to me, but I'm new to the 360.
cpthowdy
PS again, my apologies for my posting error.
Welcome to the forum!
Yes. When S&W eliminated the steel cylinder stop stud (it keeps the cylinder from falling off the back of the gun) and incorporated an integral ledge in the frame, they didn't make it tall enough on some guns IMO. The cylinder is titanium (hard) and the frame is aluminum alloy, and there's only about .015" interference on some guns.
My 342Ti can easily jump the stop and there is a scar like you describe. It happened to me while I was brushing out the cylinder chambers. Now I always remove the cylinder and yoke to clean the gun - it's easier, safer and you can clean out the yoke barrel, stud and frame more thoroughly.
I learned to eject a cylinder as shown in the photo below (I shoot right handed). The two middle fingers of the left hand support the cylinder and it frees up the other hand to reload. The cylinder can't jump if you're pinning it down and holding it.
ps. That's psychos
Yes. When S&W eliminated the steel cylinder stop stud (it keeps the cylinder from falling off the back of the gun) and incorporated an integral ledge in the frame, they didn't make it tall enough on some guns IMO. The cylinder is titanium (hard) and the frame is aluminum alloy, and there's only about .015" interference on some guns.
My 342Ti can easily jump the stop and there is a scar like you describe. It happened to me while I was brushing out the cylinder chambers. Now I always remove the cylinder and yoke to clean the gun - it's easier, safer and you can clean out the yoke barrel, stud and frame more thoroughly.
I learned to eject a cylinder as shown in the photo below (I shoot right handed). The two middle fingers of the left hand support the cylinder and it frees up the other hand to reload. The cylinder can't jump if you're pinning it down and holding it.
ps. That's psychos
Thanks for the info, s&wchad. I had a way of ejecting in mind, that I thought might keep the backing out from happening, but your pics are better. I like the weapon, and it's very handy in my Galco holster. I was thinking that I'd made a mistake getting this particular Model, or this particular revolver, perhaps, but your post makes me feel a little better about it. I know I can control the movement. I called S&W today, described what was happening, and they're sending me a free shipping box/envelope/container/etc to mail it back to them. At least they have good customer service reps. I'm not sure where my Scandium material is in relation to titanium, but the weapon is light and manageable with the +Ps I was shooting. If I can get a handle on keeping the cylinder from wandering off, or out, I know I will like shooting carrying and owning the 360. BTW, is there a trick to removing the cylinder etal? This is my first wheelie that had this "feature", so I'm not very familiar with it.
Thanks again. cpthowdy
Thanks again. cpthowdy
calmex
Member
Wow, first time I've heard of this. Can this apply to the new K-frames as well, or is the problem just appearing on the J-frames?
I ask because I am thinking of buying a new Model 64 -- with the lock (so I can bitch about the lock)...but I would certainly opt for an older used one if I was going to have my cylinder trying to back it's way out of a speed reload.
I ask because I am thinking of buying a new Model 64 -- with the lock (so I can bitch about the lock)...but I would certainly opt for an older used one if I was going to have my cylinder trying to back it's way out of a speed reload.
Cylinder removal:
Get a proper fitting screwdriver and remove the front side plate screw.
Swing the cylinder open.
Hold the cylinder and frame with one hand and pull the yoke out the front.
(Don't let the cylinder and frame bang together).
Calmex,
I don't know about the stop ledge height on the newer Model 64's, you'll have to look at the interference.
Get a proper fitting screwdriver and remove the front side plate screw.
Swing the cylinder open.
Hold the cylinder and frame with one hand and pull the yoke out the front.
(Don't let the cylinder and frame bang together).
Calmex,
I don't know about the stop ledge height on the newer Model 64's, you'll have to look at the interference.
Thanks for the cyl removal info, chad. I noticed that you can shove the ejection rod all the way back to the crane, and no pressure is applied to make the cyl back out. Only makes sense. I was thinking one fingered ejections would fix the problem. It almost feels like a ball bearing detent-type mechanism in there. It does take a little force to get the cyl to "jump"/move back towards the frame. If I avoid that first bump on the cyl, problem solved. But like someone said, at the worst possible time, are you going to be thinking that clearly? I'll send it back to S&W, in their prepaid mailer, and if nothing else see if I can get the ding reblacked.
Thanks for the info on this. I appreciate all the help. I this one works out, there could be more in my future.
cpthowdy
Thanks for the info on this. I appreciate all the help. I this one works out, there could be more in my future.
cpthowdy
Fired cases sometimes stick in the chambers (especially as the gun gets dirty) and that can transfer the force to the cylinder and push it back. I just grab the cylinder with my two middle fingers thru the frame window and it's not going anywhere. Your support hand is right there when you're shooting (with two hands) and this style of reloading minimizes movement and allows you to properly tip the muzzle up for ejection. If you load singly, the cylinder can be rotated with the left thumb and you still have good control of the gun with your index finger and pinky, all while the right hand is fumbling for cartridges! I'm not sure I'd send your gun back, just carry it and be aware of the issue. IMO, these are the finest pocket revolvers available (I love my 342).
Your 360 has an aluminum alloy frame with traces of elemental scandium mixed in. The scandium substantially increases the strength of the material, but it's still aluminum alloy. You cylinder is titanium, which much harder and stronger.
Your 360 has an aluminum alloy frame with traces of elemental scandium mixed in. The scandium substantially increases the strength of the material, but it's still aluminum alloy. You cylinder is titanium, which much harder and stronger.
Hi, again. I was thinking about it last night, and the stuck case scenario came to mind. That would be a problem with my one fingered ejection solution, indeed. With your method, I can't see that occurring. I'll use that, and it will eventually be a habit, in any situation.
Thanks again for the assist. I'm liking the 360 a lot. It's comfortable to carry OWB in my Galco, has the power to at least initiate second thoughts, and I can always pocket carry my little 380 as my BUG. I appreciate ALL the feedback I got on this. Gary.
Thanks again for the assist. I'm liking the 360 a lot. It's comfortable to carry OWB in my Galco, has the power to at least initiate second thoughts, and I can always pocket carry my little 380 as my BUG. I appreciate ALL the feedback I got on this. Gary.
