S&W 617-6 and Wolff Spring Kits

[campfire]

I have a current production 617 which has a fairly heavy trigger pull (has only fired about 1,000 rounds so far).
I have stripped the gun down twice and given it a thorough cleaning and re-oil.
I have also backed the mainspring off a couple of times but it hasn’t made too much difference, (still seems a bit on the heavy side).
I’m curious if is there anything to be gained by altering the mainspring and rebound spring?
I have been thinking about getting the Wolff Shooter’s Pac Type 2 # 17121 with the reduced power mainspring and the assortment of three rebound springs at 13, 14 & 15 lbs.
I recall posts here in the past have suggested that lightening up the springs on a rimfire can lead to light strikes and fail to fire.
If anyone here has had any experience with installing a Wolff Spring Kit into a 617 I would like to hear your opinions on whether there has been any noticeable improvement to the gun.
Campfire

 

[andyo5]

Campfire, I recently bought a 617-2. I shortened the strain screw by approx. 0.015" (equivalent to 1/2 turn), and installed a Wolff 14lb rebound spring. It was not quite enough, so I replaced the 14 lb Wolff rebound spring with a 13 lb Wolff spring. It is fine now. No further work needed. And no misfires.

 

[gr7070]

I had a pretty bad trigger on my 617-6, too - quite heavy. I installed the Wolff Spring Pak and it drastically reduced my trigger pull.

Do *not* get the reduced power spring. The regular power spring is what I installed and it was still too light for full reliability. However, the full power spring (and rebound change) did manage to reduce the trigger pull greatly.

You will likely not be fully reliable even with the full power spring. You can buy a set screw from a warehouse and Loctite the set screw in far enough to be fully reliable, and should still result in a greatly reduced trigger pull.

 

[jungle375]

My experience: Get the reduced power kit with the reduced power mainspring. Go to the hardware store and get a couple of 8-32x.5 stainless set screws, these will run you all of 58 cents.

Install the 13lb rebound spring, install the reduced power mainspring, remove the strain screw, install the 8-32 set screw in its place. Leave the grips off, take the revolver to the range and dial in 100% reliable ignition for the ammo you use via the setscrew, dab on a little blue loctite to hold setting, you can do this prior to testing,replace grips. While you have the gun apart dab on a generous dollop of synthetic grease with moly on the hammer and trigger pivot points and put a big dab on the hammer/trigger double action interface, it will stay put and reduce friction.Enjoy a really good trigger.

The wolff mainsprings have a rib that requires a longer strain screw, this is why the setscrew is required.

The triggers come stupid heavy from the factory to account for dust, rust, and all types of ammo. The fix runs less than $12 bucks, you will thank me later. Good shooting.

 

[AveragEd]

I have spring kits in both my no-dash 617s, using the lightest springs in the kits, and both guns fire every time with any ammo. Both have target triggers and hammers - I don't know if the heavier hammer helps the light springs or not.

Ed

 

[Stainz]

I like the 13# rebound spring. Just replacing the main spring can be problematic. The newer strain screws have turned down ends which intrude into the 'Power Rib' hump on the Wolff mainsprings, lessening their pre-load and trigger pull even more. This will yield ftf's in a cf revolver - more in a rimfire. I replaced my new 9/08 4" 617's strain screw with a 1/2" hardened SS Allen headed set screw, I believe it is #6 x 48 - but check, from 'Home Depot', poly-bagged 2/$.56, when it was days old. Clean the threaded hole and set screw with acetone or alcohol first - and measure the separation of the original leaf from the frame at the strain screw - try to duplicate that position with the set screw. Test fire it. If no ftf's, unscrew the set screw (CCW) a half turn and shoot some more ammo. When you find a few ftf's, screw it in 1/2 turn (CW) and use a tooth pick to put a drop of Blue Loctite at the threaded screw/frame juncture. Now the hardest part - leave it alone - let it set for 18 hr! Leave the grip off, if you must. My 617 still has had but one ftf - and it was a true dud - wouldn't go off in my CZ rifle, either. Ultimately reliable and a DA trigger your range-mates will envy. The 617 - and a brick of el cheapo Federal plinker .22's - fun!

I swapped the original front sight for a HiViz #SW617 fiber optic sight. Not the best for great groups in bullseye shooting - a Patridge style gold bead is better there, by far - but that f.o. sight helps mature eyes plink. The Ahrends retro targets in cocobolo, finished with a homebrew oil finish that darkened them a bit, are a great hand fit and balance for my medium+ sized hands. The DS-10 speedloader & loading plate permit rapid reloads... just don't count the time it takes to load the baseplate. Real shooting fun!

Stainz

 

[dentkimterry]

I followed stainz's instructions on this modification and my 617 trigger is now a dream. Do exactly like he says and you will like yours too!

 

[MakeMyNight]

Been using Wolff and Wilson Combat kits in all My Smith revolvers for a lot of years, and I've never experienced a misfire as a result. That is, using both center-fire and rim-fire cartridges/guns, and both DA and SA modes.
I generally install the #12 or #13 re-bound spring, and of course, the reduced power mainspring, with the strain screw seated down properly, into the grip frame.

Great shooting!

 

[jungle375]

Just one further minor addendum to this subject. I suspect that Smith does not offer trigger work on their .22 revolvers because there is a good amount of variance in both brands and lots of .22 ammunition in reference to primer sensitivity.

With the mods listed above you can easily get a much better than factory trigger and easily adjust it to 100% reliability, but what if you change brand or encounter softer or harder priming?

May I present the "jungle dial-a-hit mod", now you can run your trigger at the minimum and quickly and easily adjust through a tiny port in the front of the grips.

Legal says you must not use this mod in the bathtub and remove allen key prior to shooting.

Good shooting.

 

[gr7070]

I don't know if the heavier hammer helps the light springs or not.
Ed

It hurts it actually. Lighter hammer can provide a harder strike all else being equal.

 

[Nick B]

I'm tagging this thread while i wait for my new 617 to come in .

 

[campfire]

From day one the trigger pull on this gun was very heavy and not particularly smooth making it difficult to get good accuracy with my shooting.
I thought that if I just kept on shooting the gun and then giving it a good clean and re-oil after each trip to the range it would eventually get a bit slicker.
I have stripped the gun a couple of times then cleaned and lightly greased all the parts with Tetra Grease.
I also give it a squirt of G96 for cleaning and lubricating after each trip to the range.
The ammo I use is CCI Targets and I have been fiddling with the S&W mainspring so that it is backed off far enough that I am now adjusted just above that point where I was getting FTF’s ( this has made quite a difference already).
From here I think I will take the advise given in some of these replies and install the 13 lb Wolff rebound spring and mainspring then see how that goes.
I have been tinkering with this gun since I bought it and so far have installed a red ramp front sight, white outline rear sight (bit easier for my eyes to line up), the grips are walnut N frame round to square conversions which I modified slightly to fit and it has had a polish job also.
I am enjoying this gun very much; here are a couple of pictures of the project so far (one with its big brother).
Campfire

 

[campfire]

Update on my S&W 617-6 spring work

After considering the expert comments given here and advise from my local gunsmith (who is an expert at doing work on S&W revolvers) I have installed a 12 lb rebound spring in my 617-6.
I’m still using the factory main spring (with the strain screw backed off half a turn from fully tight).
I’m amazed how much of a difference the lighter rebound spring has made to the gun.
Went to the range this morning and shot a couple of packets of CCI standard velocity without any misfires and managed to do the most accurate shooting with this gun since I bought it.
Campfire

 

[1mathom1]

I like the 13# rebound spring. Just replacing the main spring can be problematic. The newer strain screws have turned down ends which intrude into the 'Power Rib' hump on the Wolff mainsprings, lessening their pre-load and trigger pull even more. This will yield ftf's in a cf revolver - more in a rimfire. I replaced my new 9/08 4" 617's strain screw with a 1/2" hardened SS Allen headed set screw, I believe it is #6 x 48 - but check, from 'Home Depot', poly-bagged 2/$.56, when it was days old. Clean the threaded hole and set screw with acetone or alcohol first - and measure the separation of the original leaf from the frame at the strain screw - try to duplicate that position with the set screw. Test fire it. If no ftf's, unscrew the set screw (CCW) a half turn and shoot some more ammo. When you find a few ftf's, screw it in 1/2 turn (CW) and use a tooth pick to put a drop of Blue Loctite at the threaded screw/frame juncture. Now the hardest part - leave it alone - let it set for 18 hr! Leave the grip off, if you must. My 617 still has had but one ftf - and it was a true dud - wouldn't go off in my CZ rifle, either. Ultimately reliable and a DA trigger your range-mates will envy. The 617 - and a brick of el cheapo Federal plinker .22's - fun!

I swapped the original front sight for a HiViz #SW617 fiber optic sight. Not the best for great groups in bullseye shooting - a Patridge style gold bead is better there, by far - but that f.o. sight helps mature eyes plink. The Ahrends retro targets in cocobolo, finished with a homebrew oil finish that darkened them a bit, are a great hand fit and balance for my medium+ sized hands. The DS-10 speedloader & loading plate permit rapid reloads... just don't count the time it takes to load the baseplate. Real shooting fun!

Stainz

Couple questions if I may.

Did you make your loading block?

My Ruger Single Six benefitted from adding a shims to eliminate play in the hammer and trigger. Ever experiment with that in a 617?

 

[dentkimterry]

That loading block was probably made by Speed Beez.

 

[*chris*]

I have spring kits in both my no-dash 617s, using the lightest springs in the kits, and both guns fire every time with any ammo. Both have target triggers and hammers - I don't know if the heavier hammer helps the light springs or not.

Ed

This has been my experience as well, my 617 with the target hammer and trigger is great with the lightest springs.

Chris

 

[Stainz]

My loading baseplate, like the speedloader, was made by Dave at DS-10 Speedloader. First class fellow and first class product.

An older 617 likely has an older strain screw - which, like my Allen set screw, bridges the Wolff 'Power Rib' tunnel. My Allen headed set screw permits fine-tuning the pre-load.

Stainz

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

I wouldn't mess with the mainspring. Too much chance for ftf. Also it's easier/cheaper to play with the strain screw. Mine had a 12 lb DA trigger when it arrived. I put in a 15 lb trigger return spring and that dropped it to about 10 lbs. I tried a 13 lb return spring and my trigger wouldn't reset reliably. I am pretty happy with the outcome.

 

[Joewisc]

My 617-6 is perfect the way it is in both DA/SA. The trigger pull is slightly heavy but I'm used to it and wouldn't want to make it any lighter. As a general matter, I don't like tampering with a gun's internals. Cosmetics is one thing (grips, finish), but when you start messing with the innards you could make 'em worse.