S&W 629-1 frame questions

[fnfalstg58]

I got this 629-1 44 magnum from a friend of mine. he had a gunsmith in florida to install a jack weigand scope rail. I understand that the newer 629's they come already predrilled from the factory. the older ones you have to drill and tap.. but this is the question: I want to put back the original rear sight. now there is 3 3-56 threaded holes from the scope mount on the frame. by having those holes (not being used) can cause that frame to be less stronger than before or they are made strong enough keeping in mind that in the event if the frame is drilled for a scope mount is not going to be problem like in my case that decided not to use the scope mount but the holes are there. my friend told me that if you do this, that the gunsmith told him that you have to put screws to cover the holes to make the frame strong again if you decide to put the original rear sight. that you should not shoot that revolver with the open holes. but I just don't believe that. are the newer 6-29's that come from smith and wesson already predrilled have a stronger frame than the ones that are not predrilled or both are the same?
I also saw on e-bay that they sale what is called the plug screws, that are made to close the holes of scope mounts, so I guess I can plug them so gunk and powder does not get inside the holes, but not sure if these screws will be making the frame stronger. does the new models that come from smith and wesson already pre-drilled come with plug screws or not? thanks for the help.

 

[AveragEd]

I'm not a gunsmith or an expert in S&W metallurgy but just to be safe and to keep combustion debris from filling them, I would plug the holes but not with "gunk" or anything like that. Use flush-fitting plug screws like the ones in rifle receiver scope mount holes when those guns leave the factory. Any industrial hardware store should have the right size - just measure the top strap's thickness with a micrometer or caliper and take along one of the scope mount screws so they know the hole size and thread pitch.

One of those holes should line right up with the sight's holes so installing the sight shouldn't be a problem. The screw for that is available from S&W.

Ed

 

[fnfalstg58]

thank you ed.. the holes for the scope mount are 6-48 thread and the one for the rear sight leaf is smaller: 3-56 thread.I found the plug screws from a vendor on e-bay.

 

[steelslaver]

I don't think the screws being installed will make the frame stronger than if left out. If so it would be very very marginal gain. I also don't think that the holes for the scope do much to weaken the frame. I would plug them to protect the threads and keep gunk out. Unless you shot a whole bunch of stupid hot loads it will last a long time. I have 4 629-1 frames, 2 of them converted to 45 colt. Don't have any newer N frames, but, I don't think the frame diamentions changed. The later guns did get an endurance package, but that is a change to the size of bolt that locks the slot in cylinder and the slot. Some found that firing heavy loads that the bolt would bounce out of slot and let the cylinder turn when fired. Not a danger, just didn't allow gun to index next round. I have never had it happen firing normal 44 mags or warm 45 colts in a tight 629-1

 

[apollo99]

When I look at my 629-4 I have the holes on the strap, no plugs. No problems so far with thousands of rounds.

 

[Protocall_Design]

They come from the factory with empty holes. Putting a screw in there will not add any strength to the topstrap at all. Drilling the holes in an older model will not affect the strength enough to make any difference. I own and have shot thousands of rounds through both examples in .357 and .44 magnums.

 

[CH4]

If the holes in the top strap affected the guns integrity, Smith wouldn’t have put them there. Filling them with screws serves absolutely no meaningful purpose.

 

[Dieseltech56]

The only thing is if you have any holes near the forcing cone you will want to fill it to prevent hot gasses from being directed back down at the cylinder. I believe flame cutting marks on the cylinder was a problem with the 29-5. Stainless may not show it

 

[AveragEd]

I suggested plugging the holes 1)after stating I was not a metallurgy expert and 2)in response to the OP's suggestion that the -4s with factory scope mount holes might have a different alloy of steel in the frames. I don't think they would do much either but it might give a guy the warm fuzzies.

Ed

 

[BillyMagg]

The only thing is if you have any holes near the forcing cone you will want to fill it to prevent hot gasses from being directed back down at the cylinder. I believe flame cutting marks on the cylinder was a problem with the 29-5. Stainless may not show it

Yep, no flame cutting but it does burn the blue OFF,, the factory will put screws in and might even reblue your cylinder,,, I just been blastin away with mine, but it is a little "butt kicker".

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

I can't think of a single benefit that would come from plug screws. "Gunk" accumulation is a non-issue.

 

[fnfalstg58]

ok.. thanks every body... now looking at this revolver I discover when I took the scope rail off, that the barrel is over-torque a few degrees..... looking from the front of the barrel and aligning the front sight towards the back... you can see that is canted a little bit... called smith and wesson and the tech support specialist.. told me that that is normal.... I am not the original owner so there is no warranty: this gun was made in september of 1988. (629-1) but I have never seen this on my other smith and wesson revolvers.. I have not had one with the canted barrel.. any of you had this problem??? should I worry about that??? also with the cylinder locked in place you take your hand, and there is a little itsy bitsy movement back and fordward on the cylinder: (right to left... not front to back) . is this normal? also is the same movement when you cock the hammer, pull the trigger(dry- fire).... then hold the trigger back and check for cylinder movement.. is the same.. normal or not normal ?? I know is hard to describe: itsy bitsy... now if I buy a new cylinder stop... this problem should go away or I have to buy a new cylinder and cylinder stop,
if I want this problem to go away????? what is your thoughts???? thank you very much.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

Some movement is normal. Some are tighter than others, but what you describe sounds like it is in the range of normal.

 

[fnfalstg58]

does any body has any info or something to say on the canted barrel... an gunsmith told me that the only way to fix that problem is to put a new barrel. any body???????? thanks.....

 

[Protocall_Design]

I've built lots of custom S&W revos for myself over 40+ years. You do not need a new barrel. All you have to do is hold the barrel in a padded vise and turn the frame with a proper fitting frame wrench. It's about a 5 or 10 minute adjustment. Most of the time is spent in setup.

 

[fnfalstg58]

thanks toolguy.. in my case the barrel is overtorqued...passed the 12' clock mark. just a little but is noticeable. so if I do the correct set up with the barrel in a padded vise...and with the frame wrench... I should be able to return that barrel to the 12'clock mark and should be ok? the barrel will not be too loose to shoot safely???? please let me know.... thanks.

 

[Protocall_Design]

It will be OK. You would have to go to about 1 or 2 o'clock before it is loose. Anyway, if it did come loose at 12 o'clock (it won't) all you do is unscrew the barrel, clean the threads, and put some blue or purple Loctite on it and screw it back in to 12 o'clock.

Everyone gets crazy over a barrel that's a little bit off, but it's so easy to fix. I think the factory should install them correctly to begin with, but we are not going to change them.

 

[fnfalstg58]

hello Again... questions: the barrel has a right hand thread right? so with the barrel on the vise.. using the frame wrench you will turn the frame counter clockwise right to get it loose..??? I got confused when you said you have to go to 1 or 2 o'clock to get it loose????? the other question: is the purple loctite the same is the blue? the blue is a medium and I have the 242 loctite that you should be able to disassemble if necessary.

 

[fnfalstg58]

any body..?????

 

[Protocall_Design]

The barrel thread is right hand. If you are standing at the grip end of the gun, as you would be when shooting, to loosen, you would turn the frame CCW while the barrel is stationary in the vise.

When the frame is turned to remove the barrel, the front sight goes CW in relationship to the rear sight, or said another way, the rear sight goes CCW to the front sight.

Blue Loctite is #242. Purple is #222. Purple is lighter duty than blue. Both can be removed with no heat.