S&W 642 trigger job

Not bad, but there's a lot of things he does in that video that you really have to be careful or you could do some serious damage to your gun. Remember he's an experienced gunsmith and knows what he's doing. He doesn't explain too clearly what, were and how the small parts surfaces are that he's honing. Doesn't explain what grit of Arkansas stone etc. I know what he's doing and I can also do it, but I'm just saying, unless you have done this a few times and have gained experience, be careful, it's not for amatuers! :eek: Most guys just do the spring kit change.

Diamondback, I agree. This video lacks MUCH info that the novice would-be gunsmith needs to know. Even SIMPLE things like taking off the sideplate W/O damaging it are not mentioned. I think that there must be better instructional videos than this available....
 
I have a 642. So far, I have installed a Wolff 8 lb mainspring and 14 lb rebound spring. I have both 13 and 12 lb rebound springs on order, as it is still a bit too stiff for my liking.
If you go this route, be sure to grind the ends of the rebound spring flat, as is the factory rebound spring. Otherwise, it is difficult to install even with a dedicated gunsmithing tool. Grinding is easy with a common drill and grinding stone attachment.
 
I have a 642. So far, I have installed a Wolff 8 lb mainspring and 14 lb rebound spring. I have both 13 and 12 lb rebound springs on order, as it is still a bit too stiff for my liking.
If you go this route, be sure to grind the ends of the rebound spring flat, as is the factory rebound spring. Otherwise, it is difficult to install even with a dedicated gunsmithing tool. Grinding is easy with a common drill and grinding stone attachment.

I would advise others to be very careful with any power tools and abrasives.

You can get a nice smooth rebound slide, bottom end edges included,
with a fine polishing stone, in just a few minutes.
 
I would advise others to be very careful with any power tools and abrasives.

You can get a nice smooth rebound slide, bottom end edges included,
with a fine polishing stone, in just a few minutes.

I recommended grinding the ends of the Wolff spring, not the slide.
 
I recommended grinding the ends of the Wolff spring, not the slide.

Sorry about that! :o

I never heard of that being recommended before so my mind must have reverted to what's "normally" done.

With that said, I usually put my springs in a vibrator / tumbler for a while with corn cob media to polish them up a little.
 
Sorry about that! :o

I never heard of that being recommended before so my mind must have reverted to what's "normally" done.

With that said, I usually put my springs in a vibrator / tumbler for a while with corn cob media to polish them up a little.

The factory rebound spring has the ends ground flat, while the Wolff springs do not. It isn't *too bad* trying to install the Wolff 14 lb rebound spring, but for lesser weights the length is greater (more preload) and they are difficult to compress without them bending and going 'boinnngggg' across the room. Grinding the edges flat makes them alot easier to compress and install. That's probably why the factory does it.
 
As has been the case on this forum on this issue in the past, there have been alot of different thoughts expressed and that's good. The individual can then decide for themselve's what they want to do. This forum is a great resource. There is alot of tremendous information here and some great people who are willing to share their extensive knowledge and experience.

(for what its worth, I used an ultra fine arkansas stone on my 2 j- frames and have subsequently put several hundred rounds down range in each with no issues )
 
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