S&W 686 2.5 inch vs. 3 inch concealment

[MO_mule]

martyg:

Thank you! I have a littler one of the 640 and it is easy to forget it's on the hip.

If Tucker can't supply leather loops then please call Ray at Lobo Gunleather. You won't be sorry.

Chris

 

[Ridge Runner]

What model/year did they introduce the lock for the 3"

Anyone know?

 

[BobR1]

I Carry my K Frames at 4 O'Clock in a Lobo Enhanced Pancake. The 3" is on the maximum end to still access your back pocket under the holster.
The 3" is my favorite length. It will have a Full Length Ejector Rod, a little more sight radius, a little more velocity, and is still a concealable length.

I have Altamont Checkered Rosewood Finger Groove Boot Grips on both my 2.5" 315NG, and my 3" 66-2. The grips really help with concealment.

Bob

 

[Wheel Fan]

In my opinion the 686+ w/3" barrel is the best all-around revolver you can own for CCW or home defense.

It's well balanced, eminently concealable, and a lot of fun at the range as well.

Yes sir. I got mine for it's versatility but they're also darned good looking revolvers as well

 

[Neumann]

I have 686+ 3" with Ahrends Boot Grips, which I carry in a Sparks VM2. The cylinder is right below the belt line, which puts the grip at just the right height. The VM2 has a steel reinforcement, which keeps the holster from collapsing. That makes it easy to draw, and easy to reholster with one hand.

 

[Jimk686]

I have 686+ 3" with Ahrends Boot Grips, which I carry in a Sparks VM2. The cylinder is right below the belt line, which puts the grip at just the right height. The VM2 has a steel reinforcement, which keeps the holster from collapsing. That makes it easy to draw, and easy to reholster with one hand.

I just placed an order for the 3" 686 and have been thinking about the VM2. Coincidentally I've also been looking at Ahrends boot grips. Your picture was helpful, looks like a nice combination.

How practical would you say the VM2 is for regular carry as an IWB holster? Is this something you've worn for extended periods and would you say it's comfortable, manageable or what?

Thanks.

Jim K.

 

[carpriver]

Here's a photo that gives a fairly good side by side look of the two.

I have three just like these, I carry the 3" in a EB holster I made for it, I also made a on the belt holster so the cylinder rides at the belt line and it conceals well with a jacket or with shirt out. I can carry the 2.5" in the same rigs.

 

[Neumann]

I just placed an order for the 3" 686 and have been thinking about the VM2. Coincidentally I've also been looking at Ahrends boot grips. Your picture was helpful, looks like a nice combination.

How practical would you say the VM2 is for regular carry as an IWB holster? Is this something you've worn for extended periods and would you say it's comfortable, manageable or what?

Thanks.

Jim K.

I don't carry the 686 on a regular basis, but I have carried it all day for several days in the Pacific Northwest. The cylinder tends to ride on top of your hip bone, taking most of the weight off the belt. At 36 oz, it's easier to carry than a full sized 1911 (40 oz), which I've done extensively. The boot grip doesn't stick out or print, yet is easy to grab.

I prefer the tactical round butt grip for a .44 Mag, since the longer grip helps control the considerable torque that big slug develops. I have a VM2 on order for a 3" 629, based on my favorable experience with the 686.

I have several VM2s for various pistols, ranging from the 686 down to a little Springfield XPs. There is nothing quite so comfortable and effective. There's a slot halfway down the front "wing" which helps the holster conform to your body. The loops have two screws which prevent rotation and loosening. Notice the wrinkles just under the snaps? If you bend the loop backwards at the onset, it makes it easy (ie possible) to fasten them with one hand around your belt. They're one-way, so you have to engage them from the bottom up.

 

[Jimk686]

I don't carry the 686 on a regular basis, but I have carried it all day for several days in the Pacific Northwest. The cylinder tends to ride on top of your hip bone, taking most of the weight off the belt. At 36 oz, it's easier to carry than a full sized 1911 (40 oz), which I've done extensively. The boot grip doesn't stick out or print, yet is easy to grab.

I prefer the tactical round butt grip for a .44 Mag, since the longer grip helps control the considerable torque that big slug develops. I have a VM2 on order for a 3" 629, based on my favorable experience with the 686.

I have several VM2s for various pistols, ranging from the 686 down to a little Springfield XPs. There is nothing quite so comfortable and effective. There's a slot halfway down the front "wing" which helps the holster conform to your body. The loops have two screws which prevent rotation and loosening. Notice the wrinkles just under the snaps? If you bend the loop backwards at the onset, it makes it easy (ie possible) to fasten them with one hand around your belt. They're one-way, so you have to engage them from the bottom up.

Thanks for the follow up, very helpful.

Jim K.

 

[bambam88]

bottom line get the gun in either style you prefer it is it is an awesome gun , just need to figure the best method for getting the carbon rings out from shooting the 38.

Another trick I picked up to remove carbon buildup that works well is Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. Spread it on with a Qtip or patch and it makes much easier work of getting that carbon out of stubborn areas including those frustrating rings.

 

[REVL33]

Another trick I picked up to remove carbon buildup that works well is Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. Spread it on with a Qtip or patch and it makes much easier work of getting that carbon out of stubborn areas including those frustrating rings.

thank for the advise I might check that method out next time I shoot last time I went out I used just straight aft to clean my gun and it worked like a charm carbon rings and all cut my cleaning to almost no time at all.

 

[bambam88]

thank for the advise I might check that method out next time I shoot last time I went out I used just straight aft to clean my gun and it worked like a charm carbon rings and all cut my cleaning to almost no time at all.

I'm sorry, can you clarify what you said you used to clean the last time that helped cut your cleaning time down? I'm always curious about new and better ways to clean (and faster is definitely a bonus!).

 

[REVL33]

I'm sorry, can you clarify what you said you used to clean the last time that helped cut your cleaning time down? I'm always curious about new and better ways to clean (and faster is definitely a bonus!).

oops sorry I should have proofread my post better I used tranny fluid to clean my gun and it worked great cut the carbon and rings in the chambers real quick.

 

[Neumann]

I use a liberal dose of REM Oil on the barrel and cylinder. I use a bore snake in the cylinder, preferably one size larger than the caliber.

For a really fouled barrel, the best cleaning agent is time. I run a damp patch through with Hoppe's Bore Cleaner, set a timer for 15 minutes and do something else.

If you want to dress it up for a date with a camera, Flitz and a toothbrush will remove all stains from the front of the cylinder, frame and barrel extension.

 

[carpriver]

I used a stainless steel cleaner my wife used to clean our stove and refig. I did a pretty fair job of taking off the rings on the cylinder.

 

[breakingbad]

If you want it for CC then I say go with the 2.5". The purpose is to conceal it, right? It will be used for self-defense which will be close up so the 3" won't make a difference. I like to appendix carry and the extra 1/2" makes a little difference when sitting down. I have a 386NG which is a 2.5" and I CC with it. I also own a 4" 686.

If I only owned one gun I would buy the 3" and that would be it.

I also think the 3" definitely gives you better accuracy at distances beyond 5 - 7 yards. If that is important than buy the 3" and live with the slightly increased discomfort from the longer barrel and increased weight, assumming you're getting steel.

I got the 386NG bec it's alloy and 7 shot. The 357 magnum is too much in that gun, but 38 and 38+P is wonderful to shoot.

 

[gunfan]

I think the 3" gives you a full length ejector rod, while the 2.5" is short.

BINGO!

The 3" Model 13 was the "FBI revolver" for many years. Their load of choice was the 158 grain LSWCHP+P that performed admirably for decades.

Were I to purchase a new .38 caliber revolver, I'd be willing to bet on a S&W Model 65 (a Stainless Steel Model 13.)

Scott