S&W Model 15-3 with more patina than bluing.

SgtDog0311

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Again, not so much “Smithing” as cosmetics.

Traded into this. I like it But I collect vintage Marlins so you learn to appreciate patina. But one this makes me wonder, is this the product of ammoniated solvents?

What do you think from the pictures. Wear wouldn’t indicate it has been treated carelessly other that the bluing looking like it was removed.

Did the best I could to capture.

John
 

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I have the same question about solvents. The wear / blue removal completely covers the gun. It's very uniform, not the typical holster wear spots and scratches. What does the finish under the grips look like? Once you get past the finish the actual metal looks really good to me. I normally don't like re-blued guns but this might be a good candidate.
 
Interesting you guys say cold blue. Looks to me like most the bluing has been stripped. I’ll do the flashlight thing.

Fullmetaljacket is right though, no pitting anywhere. And the original bluing is gone in a uniform sort of fashion. But for a few scratches the surface is smooth. Looks like some of my case-colored Marlins all worn with age. But no where near that old.

Appreciate the input. I’ll report back on the flashlight.
 
I definitely looks like it was "refinished" with cold blue. How did someone get the original blue finish off without sanding and buffing? Vinegar bath immediately comes to mind. Vinegar is acetic acid and it will strip a blued finish.
 
Did the flashlight. I guess you could call that a sick grey/green cloud.

After reading about the ammonia solvents I imagined someone flubbing up then trying to rub out the damage they caused.

If the video works, what is your verdict?
View attachment IMG_4285.mov
 
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This gun screams "law enforcement trade in" or or former pickup truck gun to me...Somebody got it cheap years ago, and then went to Wal-Mart and got a $8 Birchwood-Casey bluing kit, applied it cold, and this is how it ends up. Cold bluing can be done much better with heated surfaces, (immersed in boiling water multiple times), and it holds up decently. The grips may be replaced, because if the bluing was that bad to begin with, the stocks probably took a beating too and these look too good to match the finish.

If you remove the grip screw, how does the frame look underneath? Are the grips numbered to match the serial?

The gun looks 100% serviceable, just not a collector piece. I'd own it depending on price...Looks like a nice piece for our resident gun resurrector.
 
I’ll add one word and say OLD cold blue. The area on the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard has the sickly color. The other areas are the sickly color that have been handled a lot.

You can learn to rust blue after you finish your stainless gun. ;)

IMG_9248.png
 
You guys are great. Appreciate it!

Grips number to the revolver. End-play, lock-up and bore are all very good. I did find a four digit number (badge??) & what looks like a SS# etched inside when I pulled the grips.

I traded an old Ruger New Model Blackout Convertible for it. We were both happy with the trade. Got a Model 10-8 in the same transaction that was very nice.

Again, thanks!
 

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Looking at these (left) you guys might understand why this look is tolerable to me. I have a 15 that has the look we usually shop for. The picture on the right contains one that has been restored.

Were I to bring this Model 15 back, someone with better skills, knowledge and ability than me will do it.
 

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Looks like it's got a target trigger and hammer installed! A big plus, as far as I'm concerned. How's the inside of the barrel look? You could leave the outside alone or it'd be a good one to refinish if you want. Best of all i'll bet she'll shoot like a house a fire! Keep us posted on what you decide to do.

Buckshot Bill
 
Bore looks great Bill. Affirmative on the target trigger & Hammer.

Maybe get a chance ghis week to take it out.
 
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With the grips being orig and that nice condition, I'd bet the revolver had a lot of nice orig condition to it as well.
Some people just can't let a little honest wear alone and they start to doll it up with Cold Blue.
Pretty soon the process gets going to a wider and wider area of the gun as the Cold Blue starts to spoil the orig finish around those worn areas and discoloration in a big way sets in.
Then it usually ends up being a complete wipe down with a wet cloth of the cold blue all over the gun as a final attempt to save the restoration that began as a little touch up here and there.

They usually look like this one.

If using some of the older Cold Blue solutions like (Numrichs) 44-40, they can end up being a rusted & pitted mess if the acidic qualities are not flushed from the surface well.
I don't know if the Brownell's labled 44-40 cold blue has that issue.
Brownells Oxpho Blue doesn't seem to have an after-rust problem.
I've restored a number of nice guns that were wiped down with a cold blue, then simply wrapped up and stored away with good intensions.
They were unwrapped some time later with very deep pitting and rust on them.
 
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