S&W Model 18 Questions

I bought this Model 18-3 years ago, gun only, no box or paperwork, and it has been a great revolver! I don't think the stocks are original but, I really do not care. It looks great with the dark stocks and shoots very nice!

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Pre 18 3T's?

Hopefully this one qualifies as a "3T's! Ser #k908xx. I have had it awhile and shot plenty out of it. One of my favorites!

Thanks, BillyR
 

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Shucks!

I obviously misinterpreted the meaning of 3T' in my prior post! Oh well, live and learn, that's why I like this place BillyR
 
18-3 on the way

Just figured I'd revive this thread.

I just bought an 18-3. It's hard to tell in the pics, but the box says target hammer and trigger, standard grips. Looks to be 95% or better. Comes with box and paperwork.

Paid $680 delivered to my FFL.

Serial number indicates 1969 or so for manufacture date.

Should have it in by the end of the week.

I'm a narrow/smooth trigger guy, so I'll have to evaluate the trigger when it gets here. Might just have a 'smith put in a smooth one and keep the other in the box.

It'll go well with my Model 15.......:)
 
Fun reading this old thread. I also have an 18-3 with 3Ts. Never realized they were uncommon. Bought this one used several years ago and never had it lettered, so I can't swear all the parts are original. It wears Ahrends grips now, but the original grips are in the photo. This revolver is one of my favorite shooters.

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My 18-3 came in today!!

Better than I expected. Bluing is Excellent!! Tiny bit of carry wear on the last 1/2 of the barrel. Have to hold it in the light just right to even notice.

The action is SWEET!

No target hammer or trigger. Fine with me. No biggie at all.

Can't wait to get it to the range.........:)
 
The purpose a lot of us had in the 70s was the M-18 was a lot like the M-15 many police carried then. You could get very used to and skilled shooting the M-15 type but save loads of money in shooting the M-18
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I've been lucky enough to acquire two Model 18's; both with all the trimmings, numbers match, stock matches, box, papers and tools.

Model 18 ND (1958)


Model 18-3 (1974) again with all the trimmings.


both are good shooters but I am a little better with the no dash.

 
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That's exactly why I bought mine. I have three K frames in 38 or 357. All are fixed sights, but that's not a big difference for this purpose.

Plus, I think it's the perfect revolver for new shooters. Full size, great trigger, very accurate, and next to no recoil. My daughter in law loves shooting it.


The purpose a lot of us had in the 70s was the M-18 was a lot like the M-15 many police carried. You could get very used to shooting the M-15 type but save loads of money in shooting the M-18
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Seems like a lot of knowledge and experience here on this forum.
Im fairly new but a long, long time S&W fan. Over my many years owning the range I have acquired 19 different models of smith handguns, all revolvers.
I own a like new mod 18 and a low sn # K22 (25723) and a couple of mod 34s with 2" barrels, nickel plated.
My question after looking at the K22 and 18 is what difference is there in those and my mod 34s and in looking, I don't see much difference in them and my "K" Frames.
I also just lucked onto a pair of Mod 27s, 3" and 6" new in the box, never fired for $450 ea.

If I can figure out how to post pics I will do so with ea of these revolvers.
BTW, I had never seen a mod 27 and after getting these two I have to say I have never seen bluing as deep and good as these two guns. I had no idea that Smith ever accomplished bluing of this quality.

UF
 
Mod 27s 3” and 6” new unfired. Guy was asking $550 ea. I told him and he took my offer.
Never seen such deep, beautiful bluing on ANY s&w.
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I finally found the Model 18-3 that I was looking for,,

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BUT, I have a question,,
I purchased a Model 18-7 to hold me over until I could find the older one.

What should I do with the Model 18-7?

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Maybe I will put a scope on it,, and make it a plinker

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What do recommend I do with the -7,, considering I have the -3 now?? :rolleyes:


:D
 
I recently bought a pre-18, made in 1954, at a LGS. It’s a little rough on the outside, but the barrel, and chambers are perfect. The cylinder locks up with almost no movement. The grips are real stag grips which I may replace sometime.

The only problem that I have is a build-up of carbon in the chambers that affects ejecting the empties. Brushing the chambers cleans them, but the build-up soon returns.
 

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