S&W Model 52-2, failure to fire quite often.
- Thread starter mikemyers
- Start date
donk52
Member
Firing pin seems ok?, the end is rounded? If the gun is in battery position it should not have light strikes even with cut recoil spring. I think there might be the wrong, or cut main spring. I'll keep checking back.
Regarding the firing pin, I don't know what to look for.
Regarding the mainspring, that's very plausible, given that someone tried to mount optics on the slide.
I guess I could remove the backstrap now, and measure the length. I was going to wait for the new one to arrive.
I guess it could also be the firing pin. When I get that off, I can measure the length, but if that's what is wrong, are new firing pins available?
You are saying the tip of it should be rounded? I'm not sure how to get a photo that would show this.......
We know the firing pin is hitting the primer, as it is making dents in the primer, some deeper, some shallower. If it hit with more force (mainspring!) that could fix things.
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Don, if I were to remove the slide assembly from my gun and this gun, and put my slide assembly on this gun, that would either work, or not; if it works we know the problem is in the slide. If it doesn't work, it's in the frame assembly (mainspring).
I know the parts of these guns are custom fitted. Would it be a good or bad idea to do the switch I mentioned? I could try that on Wednesday, but if there is any chance of anything being damaged, I wouldn't even consider it.
I know the parts of these guns are custom fitted. Would it be a good or bad idea to do the switch I mentioned? I could try that on Wednesday, but if there is any chance of anything being damaged, I wouldn't even consider it.
I took my photo of the mainspring, and the photo here at the S&W forum, and edited them to look the same.
In my photo, the "plunger" appears longer than in the photo from here. Maybe this has to do with less tension on the mainspring? The outside diameter on my spring seems to be smaller as well. Maybe it's the wrong spring?
In my photo, the "plunger" appears longer than in the photo from here. Maybe this has to do with less tension on the mainspring? The outside diameter on my spring seems to be smaller as well. Maybe it's the wrong spring?
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donk52
Member
The slide swap probably not a good idea yet. Frames and slides are fit together in the "white" before finishing and bluing. might not fit right. I was talking about the other end of the pin. does it look like your other guns pin tip and protrude as far? Concerning the frame assembly. With the slide off cock the hammer. squeeze very slowly on the trigger. Do this a few times. Does it fall into half cock? I wish I could pick that gun up! I have other things but I'll wait and see.
donk52
Member
Looking at the picture of that firing pin, It looks almost flush with the safety' It should protrude enough for the hammer to strike it. What do you think?
donk52
Member
Did you remove the safety and firing pin to clean? If not there may be debris not allowing the pin to fully return.
Something else that is different between my gun and this gun. On this gun, as you look at the photo below, and as I put pressure on the hammer to start pulling it back, for a short amount of distance, the triangular plate you see in the middle of my photo appears to rotate about the rear-most pin. It only goes so far, and after that the triangular plate must hit something, and the hammer moves back on its own.
On my gun that triangular plate is fixed in place, and doesn't move at all.
On my gun that triangular plate is fixed in place, and doesn't move at all.
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donk52
Member
Hammer pin tight? This gun needs to be disassembled. Many things interacting.
Not yet - need to buy a plastic bag to work inside of, even though thanks to you I may not have to. I'd like to try the mainspring first.
While looking around, I found something I know is wrong - I made a video of it so you can see it better than I can explain.
Check this link, then click on the tiny image to open up the viewer; it is very short, but it shows what might be the main problem:
http://www.sgrid.com/2019/model-52.mov
While looking around, I found something I know is wrong - I made a video of it so you can see it better than I can explain.
Check this link, then click on the tiny image to open up the viewer; it is very short, but it shows what might be the main problem:
http://www.sgrid.com/2019/model-52.mov
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I'll wait until after you see that short video. As to disassembling, that's one thing - then it needs to be re-assembled. That's where it gets difficult for me. Maybe this is the explanation of what is wrong. If the hammer pin is the cause, how does it get tightened?
donk52
Member
That could be normal friction, the pin tolerance between the frame holes compared the hammer hole. how about the pin sticking out enough for the hammer to strike it?
The only way I know how to measure how far the firing pin is protruding is with my calipers; will try this on both of my guns. I can't visibly see any obvious difference.
Two things that are obviously different between the guns - if I take my "first finger", and pull back on the hammer, it is much easier to do on this new 52. On my 52 it takes a lot more force. Depending on how I position my hands and fingers, it is difficult to pull back on mine, but effortless on the new gun.
Here's what Dave Salyer wrote me earlier today:
"The stationary part you call the plunger seems to be blocked upward by a greenhorn trying to make the spring stronger. That part has a recess that secures it. That spring must be shorter than desired. Either cut or changed out. I think a new spring, properly installed will do the trick. A Larger OD spring is weaker than a tightly wound one because a spring is a coiled torsion bar. More length easier to twist."
I expect the new spring to arrive within the next week, hopefully earlier, rather than later. I'm very anxious to get the gun working, but I once I get it finished, and everyone is satisfied, I may put the weak spring back in for a while. Not knowing if the gun will or won't fire makes for a great "ball and dummy" drill. I know I'm not flinching, but at the range I can sometimes see movement, while dry firing at home I've pretty much got that sorted out.
By the way, that "triangular" part that I filmed in the video - it doesn't always do that. If I rack the slide, release, dry-fire, then check, it moves as in the video. Most of the time it doesn't move at all.
UPDATE, firing pin will arrive from Brownell's tomorrow, Wednesday.
Two things that are obviously different between the guns - if I take my "first finger", and pull back on the hammer, it is much easier to do on this new 52. On my 52 it takes a lot more force. Depending on how I position my hands and fingers, it is difficult to pull back on mine, but effortless on the new gun.
Here's what Dave Salyer wrote me earlier today:
"The stationary part you call the plunger seems to be blocked upward by a greenhorn trying to make the spring stronger. That part has a recess that secures it. That spring must be shorter than desired. Either cut or changed out. I think a new spring, properly installed will do the trick. A Larger OD spring is weaker than a tightly wound one because a spring is a coiled torsion bar. More length easier to twist."
I expect the new spring to arrive within the next week, hopefully earlier, rather than later. I'm very anxious to get the gun working, but I once I get it finished, and everyone is satisfied, I may put the weak spring back in for a while. Not knowing if the gun will or won't fire makes for a great "ball and dummy" drill. I know I'm not flinching, but at the range I can sometimes see movement, while dry firing at home I've pretty much got that sorted out.
By the way, that "triangular" part that I filmed in the video - it doesn't always do that. If I rack the slide, release, dry-fire, then check, it moves as in the video. Most of the time it doesn't move at all.
UPDATE, firing pin will arrive from Brownell's tomorrow, Wednesday.
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Don, I removed the slide from the frame, used the hemostat as suggested above to keep the firing pin out of the way, and put everything in a large plastic bag as 'dave1918a2 suggested.
I have been trying to do what you show in your video, and as I pull out on the safety, with my fingers wrapped around it to try to control it, the plunger, and the spring, it does pull out maybe 1/8", but doesn't want to go any further. I didn't want to push/pull any harder, in case there is something else I need to do. Do I just apply more force? Should the safety be oriented in a particular direction so it slides out?
This is your video I am trying to replicate:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0xqUjZbB0c"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0xqUjZbB0c[/ame]
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donk52
Member
You have to make sure the firing pin is out of the way and turn the safety a little so the plunger is out of it's indent area. push out.
Hmm.... disregard what I just wrote. Applying a bit more pressure, while rotating the safety, and it did come out.
Different from on the 39, the spring and plunger apparently are in the slide, not the safety. I will take photos, and also of the firing pin.
Different from on the 39, the spring and plunger apparently are in the slide, not the safety. I will take photos, and also of the firing pin.
