donk52
Member
We'll get this working. I'll have to take down my 469 and get a video for you regarding the trigger set screws. I would leave the gun as is for now, don't re assemble yet.
S&W Model 52-2, failure to fire quite often.
- Thread starter mikemyers
- Start date
Sure, will wait.
The recoil spring is still suspicious - one end is "finished" and the other end looks "cut off". It is 5 3/4" long. Does that sound right?
If not, I have a Wolff recoil spring pack coming, standard, light, heavy, which includes a new firing pin spring. Should be here by the end of the week.
I doubt if S&W shipped the gun with a spring like mine....
The recoil spring is still suspicious - one end is "finished" and the other end looks "cut off". It is 5 3/4" long. Does that sound right?
If not, I have a Wolff recoil spring pack coming, standard, light, heavy, which includes a new firing pin spring. Should be here by the end of the week.
I doubt if S&W shipped the gun with a spring like mine....
donk52
Member
The tight end goes on the recoil rod first. the other end is "open" not sure how long it should be. Let me know when you have the parts you ordered.
According to the order information. and the tracking page, the mainspring should have been here today, but there's no sign of it. Apparently it's being delivered by USPS. I guess I look for it tomorrow.
Recoil spring - the last people to assemble it put it on backwards. I changed that as it didn't look right. You just confirmed it. I keep wondering what else might be wrong....
It doesn't change what we're doing, but I met some people today and got more of the story about this gun. One person I met at the range today bought it new "in the day", had an optical sight mounted to it (not red dot) and then after he stopped using it, he put it away in a safe. He sold it to the person I bought the gun from, and together with one of the fellows at the club who is good at this sort of thing, tore it down and try to solve the problem. Then it made two trips to S&W if I got that part right. Nobody ever got it working, including S&W, so the last owner sold it to me for the $500 as-is, and kept the optical sight that had been mounted to the slide. Supposedly he/they had already installed all new springs, possibly even the correct ones for the Model 52. Meanwhile I have my own new springs coming which I feel more confident about.
I'll take a photo of my own 52 with the grips removed. I'm curious if it will look the same as this new gun. The serial number on this gun is much higher than on mine.
Thanks!!!
By the way, did you personally know Dwayne Charron? He passed away, and there is an article about him on page 11 of the May 2019 issue of Guns Magazine. "......and his crowning achievement, the Model 52". I can clip it out and send it to you if you wish.
kas9412
Member
Mike,
I think I read on this forum, within the last couple of weeks, that Wolf recoil springs are finished on one end, and not on the other. This is apparently different than S&W recoil springs. Unfortunately, I haven't had need to field strip my 52-2 lately, so I don't know for sure about the S&W springs, but I suspect this is true - mine has the original spring in it. Anyway, according to what I read, the Wolf recoil spring needs to be oriented in the right direction, or it has the potential to mess up your gun. If you do a search on this forum, I am sure you will find the thread I am referring to. I think this is also noted in the instructions when you buy a spring kit from Wolf.
I enjoy reading your posts here and on the BullseyeL forum! Very Interesting!
kas (lsm 124 on the BullseyeL forum - not a big poster here or over there!)
I think I read on this forum, within the last couple of weeks, that Wolf recoil springs are finished on one end, and not on the other. This is apparently different than S&W recoil springs. Unfortunately, I haven't had need to field strip my 52-2 lately, so I don't know for sure about the S&W springs, but I suspect this is true - mine has the original spring in it. Anyway, according to what I read, the Wolf recoil spring needs to be oriented in the right direction, or it has the potential to mess up your gun. If you do a search on this forum, I am sure you will find the thread I am referring to. I think this is also noted in the instructions when you buy a spring kit from Wolf.
I enjoy reading your posts here and on the BullseyeL forum! Very Interesting!
kas (lsm 124 on the BullseyeL forum - not a big poster here or over there!)
Jim Watson
Member
I'd look at the hammer face. Does it strike the firing pin square? If out of plumb it might be wasting a lot of impact on the safety shaft.
Does the firing pin protrude to the rear far enough for a good whack?
How about the "pencil test"?
Does the firing pin protrude to the rear far enough for a good whack?
How about the "pencil test"?
Jim Watson
Member
Um.
I see the firing pin mark and the rub marks where the slide drives it back to full cock and rub marks from the sear on the way to full cock.
I don't know what those slightly crescent shaped dings midway down the body of the hammer are. Let me go look at mine...
Nope, not seen here; looks like your hammer is hitting something pretty hard right there.
I see the firing pin mark and the rub marks where the slide drives it back to full cock and rub marks from the sear on the way to full cock.
I don't know what those slightly crescent shaped dings midway down the body of the hammer are. Let me go look at mine...
Nope, not seen here; looks like your hammer is hitting something pretty hard right there.
Last edited:
donk52
Member
It looks like the spot it hits the frame when the slide is off. This gun has been through a lot!
29aholic
Member
I am beginning to wonder if when they D&T'd it, it raised a burr in the firing pin channel that might be binding things.
More information that may or may not be useful. People were saying that high primers could cause my problem. So I got to wondering about whether or not my rounds go all the way into the barrel. For many of them, it was a "snug" fit. So I cleaned the barrel, using patches, brass brush, and then Lewis Lead Remover. An hour later it was looking pretty.
My reloads pass the "plunk test". From my box of fired cases, most drop into the barrel easily, but a few feel "snug". I also cleaned off the back of the barrel. If you think those photos are useful, I'll upload them.
My reloads pass the "plunk test". From my box of fired cases, most drop into the barrel easily, but a few feel "snug". I also cleaned off the back of the barrel. If you think those photos are useful, I'll upload them.
That's an interesting suggestion, I would certainly look for that also now that you mentioned it.
I'm not sure what "D&T'd" means, but earlier this morning I cleaned out the firing pin chamber. When I looked through the hole for the pin, there was "something" in there. I used what I think is a pipe cleaner, with lots of bristles around a metal wire, and it was perfect - went right through the hole. If any debris was in there before, it's gone now.
Not sure when my new firing spring will arrive, probably early next week. It was supposed to be here yesterday, but Brownell's says the latest now Monday. Oh well. Don, maybe I should re-assemble with the old spring. The guys who worked on the gun told me they got new springs for it......
Is there a good way to check the firing pin for working properly, without using a live round?
Regarding the burr, what is "D&T'd", and where would I be looking for a burr? Inside the chamber? Where the pin comes out?
I remember the firing pin actuation used to feel terrible like pushing something through gravel. Now the pin just drops through with no effort. Maybe whatever this is, it's now fixed?
I remember the firing pin actuation used to feel terrible like pushing something through gravel. Now the pin just drops through with no effort. Maybe whatever this is, it's now fixed?
donk52
Member
Sounds like the firing pin hole is clear, I would re assemble the slide. All holes that are "D"rilled and"T"apped are done again after the frame and slide are back from finishing and bluing. I think it was just external debris that found it's way in there. My only other concern is. Is the firing pin exposed enough for the hammer to hit fully?
Don, I think they found it!!!
I used a light to look down the firing pin chamber, and I could see "something" at the same distance in as one of the the holes through the slide, with a screw going through it. I used a probe, and I could feel "something", maybe the screw sticking out.
I used the round end of a 15/64" drill bit, and it dropped right down the chamber to the end. Then I tried the round end of a 1/4" drill bit, and it got "stuck".
That might explain the "roughness" I described as "a rod going through gravel", which may have been the spring going past the one of the screws sticking out a little through that hole.
I removed the last two set screws, and left them off.
I used the 1/4" drill by hand, just turning it a little, slowly, with no real pressure. Now the 1/4" drill will fall right to the end of the hole.
(Should I buy a 1/4" reamer just to clean up the chamber? I think it's pretty free the way it is right now.)
Wow, ain't that something!!!!!
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE, 29aholic. Seems like all the obvious possibilities, recognized by Don, are OK. This, is very much NOT ok. It explains SO much!!!
I used a light to look down the firing pin chamber, and I could see "something" at the same distance in as one of the the holes through the slide, with a screw going through it. I used a probe, and I could feel "something", maybe the screw sticking out.
I used the round end of a 15/64" drill bit, and it dropped right down the chamber to the end. Then I tried the round end of a 1/4" drill bit, and it got "stuck".
That might explain the "roughness" I described as "a rod going through gravel", which may have been the spring going past the one of the screws sticking out a little through that hole.
I removed the last two set screws, and left them off.
I used the 1/4" drill by hand, just turning it a little, slowly, with no real pressure. Now the 1/4" drill will fall right to the end of the hole.
(Should I buy a 1/4" reamer just to clean up the chamber? I think it's pretty free the way it is right now.)
Wow, ain't that something!!!!!
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE, 29aholic. Seems like all the obvious possibilities, recognized by Don, are OK. This, is very much NOT ok. It explains SO much!!!
