S&W Model 52-2, failure to fire quite often.
- Thread starter mikemyers
- Start date
donk52
Member
Well.. That's definitely not factory!
29aholic
Member
That happens a lot with scope mounts on rifles. The scope mount screws (or plug screws) are a tad too long and drag the bolt. Depending on the situation either the bolt will work but roughly or will not work at all. In the case of your delimna it can be putting the spring in enough of a bind to slow down the forward inertia of the firing pin.
If it were me, I would take something like a 22 caliber brush and wrap it with some 800-1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Chuck that in a drill and (using gun oil) polish any burrs out of the firing pin hole. I would not ream it. The sandpaper will do the trick.
If it were me, I would take something like a 22 caliber brush and wrap it with some 800-1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Chuck that in a drill and (using gun oil) polish any burrs out of the firing pin hole. I would not ream it. The sandpaper will do the trick.
Excellent news!
Definitely do the pencil test. A Bic pen also works, flat end down on the breech face, ball point forward just as if it were a missile.
This would be a fantastic conclusion to a bit of a baffler.
Definitely do the pencil test. A Bic pen also works, flat end down on the breech face, ball point forward just as if it were a missile.
This would be a fantastic conclusion to a bit of a baffler.
I suspect it wasn't a burr - it was the screw sticking out too far. Everything is apart now - any suggestion on how to do this by hand, without using a drill?
Now that I know how to do this, I should maybe put in the firing pin and spring, and see if it is totally free. If it goes in and out like a knife through butter, maybe I'll just quit while I'm ahead.
Don, I'm pretty sure I can follow your video on getting the slide back together, with the safety. I think I know enough to put in the mainspring, but I need your advice on how to get the hammer and ejector and side plate back together. Is it as obvious as just putting in the magazine, lining up all the parts, and pushing the side plate in?
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Jim Watson
Member
Check first, I would not run in just any handy reamer.
29aholic
Member
You can do it by hand, it may just take longer. If you have a set of needle files or a chain saw file you can do the same thing. Do it gently not like you are trying to hoe a snake and you will be fine. All you are doing is to try to remove any possible burr. If it's there you will fell it. Chances are, if there is any it is minimal
donk52
Member
Don, I'm pretty sure I can follow your video on getting the slide back together, with the safety. I think I know enough to put in the mainspring, but I need your advice on how to get the hammer and ejector and side plate back together. Is it as obvious as just putting in the magazine, lining up all the parts, and pushing the side plate in?[/QUOTE]
No mag in when reassembling ejector/hammer.
No mag in when reassembling ejector/hammer.
Don, the best thing about everything you've showed/taught me, is that I can do it on my own now. Rather than waiting for the new mainspring to come, I thought I would re-assemble the gun to see if we've truly fixed it.
The hammer and ejector went in reasonably easy, although it took some time to get everything lined up. The mainspring and backplate went in MUCH easier than what I expected! Everything is together, and the action works at least as well as before, maybe a little easier. It's very smooth.
Re-assembling the slide, with the "hemostat" holding the firing pin in, other than me being so concerned it would't go together easily, it did. Even the safety went right in, just like in your video.
I will take it to the range to try out on Monday. I have every expectation that it will work perfectly.
Thank you, and also thanks to so many other people who chipped in with additional advice.
(I suspect my mainspring isn't as stiff as it should be, because it didn't take so much effort to get the parts back together. It wasn't "easy", but I was able to lever it back to where it belonged.
(Not sure what to do about the set screws in the top of the slide. I don't want to leave open holes there. I think I'll use Blue Loctite to keep them in place. Anyone have a better suggestion?
The hammer and ejector went in reasonably easy, although it took some time to get everything lined up. The mainspring and backplate went in MUCH easier than what I expected! Everything is together, and the action works at least as well as before, maybe a little easier. It's very smooth.
Re-assembling the slide, with the "hemostat" holding the firing pin in, other than me being so concerned it would't go together easily, it did. Even the safety went right in, just like in your video.
I will take it to the range to try out on Monday. I have every expectation that it will work perfectly.
Thank you, and also thanks to so many other people who chipped in with additional advice.
(I suspect my mainspring isn't as stiff as it should be, because it didn't take so much effort to get the parts back together. It wasn't "easy", but I was able to lever it back to where it belonged.
(Not sure what to do about the set screws in the top of the slide. I don't want to leave open holes there. I think I'll use Blue Loctite to keep them in place. Anyone have a better suggestion?
donk52
Member
Mikemeyers, we'll make you a "fitter" yet! It's not hard after all. Are there screws that were in those holes in the slide? You could put the locktite and screw them in, not too far, as long as you feel the firing pin moving smoothly. For testing I would just put some tape over them for the time being. I'm still concerned about the firing pin not being out away from the safety enough for the hammer to hit it. The pencil test might help. When the gun is back together, unloaded, empty mag in, hold the gun muzzle tilted up, insert pencil into barrel eraser in first, cock hammer and fire, all firearm safety rules still apply! it should fly out of the barrel.
Yikes!!!! Did as you suggested, aimed straight up, hand covering face, and fired. I didn't have any pencils, so I used a BIC ballpoint pen. The pen took off like a rocket, would have hit the ceiling, hard, had my ceiling fan not deflected it. I expected it to maybe shoot upwards a foot or two - I did NOT expect this! Anyone trying this test has to be careful what they're aiming at, as you said!!!!
Gun is fully assembled, and cleaned, and a little lube on the rails. The last two holes are still open. I thought I should test fire it as-is, then figure out what to do with the holes and screws. If I Locktite them in place, with a few threads over the slide that should work. Or, I could fill the holes with silicone rubber or something.
Don, a long time back, I asked you about switching parts between my two guns, to narrow down where the problem is. As I recall, you said the guns were fitted when they were still "white", and me switching parts like that was not a good idea.
I got a question from someone about "white" meant: "Most likely "before they went into the bluing tank". I'd be more curious about what he means by assembled in that case. The trigger parts, barrel etc. would not be blued. Maybe he's referring to the process of selecting and fitting the slide, frame and other parts. Can you give me a better explanation to pass on to him?
My own thoughts were I had one 52 that was perfect, and another with an unknown problem. Why risk damaging the good gun with parts that might be defective on the new gun? ......I was glad when you said what you did.
I got a question from someone about "white" meant: "Most likely "before they went into the bluing tank". I'd be more curious about what he means by assembled in that case. The trigger parts, barrel etc. would not be blued. Maybe he's referring to the process of selecting and fitting the slide, frame and other parts. Can you give me a better explanation to pass on to him?
My own thoughts were I had one 52 that was perfect, and another with an unknown problem. Why risk damaging the good gun with parts that might be defective on the new gun? ......I was glad when you said what you did.
29aholic
Member
Any gunshop should have hundreds of those screws from mounting scopes on rifles. Most plug screw only have about 2-3 threads on them and would be short enough to not interfere. They'd probably give them to you.
I would not shoot the gun without something in the holes. Since they are through the firing pin race, there is a possibility of blow back from the chamber through the firing pin race and out the top of the slide. If you cant find shorter screws use the ones that were in it, just dont screw them in as far.
I would not shoot the gun without something in the holes. Since they are through the firing pin race, there is a possibility of blow back from the chamber through the firing pin race and out the top of the slide. If you cant find shorter screws use the ones that were in it, just dont screw them in as far.
donk52
Member
"The pen took off like a rocket, would have hit the ceiling, hard, had my ceiling fan not deflected it. " I told you, all firearm safety rules still apply!
I would not use silicone! You would be better off if you cut a piece of electrical tape the width of the top flat and cover for now.
I would not use silicone! You would be better off if you cut a piece of electrical tape the width of the top flat and cover for now.
donk52
Member
I would not shoot the gun without something in the holes. Since they are through the firing pin race said:
Both screws had blue Loctite applied, and were screwed in about two to three threads. They stick out a little, which is ugly, but the chamber should be fine. If I could get very short button-head screws, that would be ideal. Debris or whatever should not be able to get in. Don doesn't think that's an issue, but leaving them wide open is probably not too good an idea.
I'll check in the morning if they seem to be "locked" in place.
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donk52
Member
I just saw this post... The frame and slide are mated and sent off to finishing. the "small parts" are fit to each individual gun. Things like extractors, springs, plungers and various pins are pretty much generic to the 52. the parts that are unique to each gun are, barrel/bushing sear, hammer, drawbar, slide stop and many others. there's a sort of finesse to the assembly of parts to achieve the desired function of the gun.
Jim Watson
Member
Brownells has plug screws with a teeny thin head for such situations.
But I would not worry about it except for appearances.
Wadcutters unlikely to blow a primer to let fire out, and I haven't had mine in a foxhole to collect dirt yet.
But I would not worry about it except for appearances.
Wadcutters unlikely to blow a primer to let fire out, and I haven't had mine in a foxhole to collect dirt yet.
