S&W Top Break HELP Please!

[bow777]

I am looking to buy a S&W Top Break 38 S&W. The original finish was nickel with the serial #1709XX. I will keep the last 2 numbers out because it is not mine yet. The mechanics of the revolver is in good working condition but the revolver definetly needs refinishing. The doubts/questions I have are:

Is this the 3rd model S&W?
Can this firearm be fired safely with off the shelf ammo?
Can this firearm be color case hardened finished?

I dont know anything about these older firearms but I would like to know if there anything I need to know about this model good or bad.

I appreciate your responses in advance.

Thanks,

 

[glowe]

Welcome!

You have questions that cannot be definitively answered without more information. First, I think that both hammer and hammerless .38s were made with that serial number range, and I certainly would not want to make any assurances about function or reliability without closely examining the gun, which is not possible even with pictures.

As for firing these revolvers in general, they are fine to shoot with standard .38 S&W ammo IF the condition and function is good. I just had a .38 DA out to the range and shot 50 rounds through it and it functioned perfectly. Problems lie with worn mechanics where the cylinder might not index or lock into battery. If you are unfamiliar with this model, a gunsmith might be your best bet before shooting it.

You can refinish and case harden just about anything, but realize that any collector value will be gone. These little Smith's represent a great piece of shooting history and what you are describing is over 100 years old. These revolvers have earned their knocks and dings, but still survive today. My opinion is we are just caretakers of these old guns and we care for and treasure them until the next owner takes on that responsibility. You might consider cleaning and a little polish to have a great original gun that looks its age.

. . . anyway just my opinion . . . there is nothing inherently wrong with these revolvers and they were designed and built to last.

Good luck on obtaining a piece of S&W history, Gary

 

[bow777]

Thanks Gary, I appreciate your input. So you suggest leaving it like it is even if 70% of the finish is gone? What if I refinish to its original nickel finish as well?

 

[opoefc]

Refinishing the gun correctly will cost more than the gun is worth, and not add any value, however it's your money and if the satisfaction of seeing it refinished is worth it to you, it's your call. You can probably buy another S&W that has most of it's original finish left for less money. Good Luck. Ed

 

[glowe]

I certainly agree with Ed that the value is just not there, plus without a factory letter, no telling what the original finish was. Many blued guns were nickeled during their lifetime.

If it is a shooter, clean it up and take it to the range, then look for a collector piece to show your friends.

 

[DWalt]

I'm on the side of leaving it as-is. If you want a revolver with a like-new finish, buy a new one.

 

[kenny s]

I' ve been shooting and working on #3's for years. SW top breaks from the 1800's are not made from the kind of steel that we're used to today, and can shoot loose with smokeless.
Yeah, I know...opinions differ. But I had a nice Russian .44 and shot it with very low Unique loads. Blew the top latch right off the gun. The repair was easy, but the latch just broke. Never did it again.
enjoy the old ones with Black Powder, and shoot the new ones with smokeless.
I have refinished and case hardened many of the old ones.
Problem on the top breaks is getting them together again. If you haven't done this before, don't try it now.
To refinish, it must be super cleaned, all old nickel (and underlined copper) removed. Any left will not blue or case color. That is 97% of the refinish. luck...Ken